The Celine’s menswear Spring Summer 2021 collection was presented this July via a film entitled « The Dancing Boy ». The drone-filmed runway featured models walking on a Formula 1 race field, and was an ode to e-boys and all the kids dancing in their room during the lockdown. An optimistic manifestation. This new wave comes with hidden codes and behaviours, and the looks are still on our minds. Today we decided to break down the inspirations behind the collection, and analyse Hedi Slimane’s designs.
With a drone camera following the models walks and recognisable music « They call me Tiago » the show already catches my attention and I can’t help but see parallels to a TikTok video. Far from the traditional runway screaming « Fashion stole my smile », the Celine presentation is catchy, full of joy and optimism. What could wrongly be interpreted as a naive vision of the current situation, is actually the Maison hearkening a call to better days, with an hommage to the kids who will built our future. The power of youth is universal. Every generation carries with them new fights for human rights and freedom. This representation of the awakening young people through social media -lockdown required- is a modern way of demonstration. Hedi Slimane understands the power and strength of new influencers within the political realm, no longer just for entertainment purposes.
The Celine fashion is new and disruptive: unmatching patterns, colours too vibrant, materials too shiny. The classic Slimane style is definitely present but is turned into something never seen before. Strongly reminiscent of Skater culture, the styling is loud and it instantly throws us into the ambiance of the show. Biker jackets are deconstructed, some are sleeveless: some are used and accessorised with chains and heavy necklaces. All the internet fashion trends are here, reinterpreted through the lens of a luxury house: patchwork cardigans for the cozy zoom meetings, crazy hair colours for post quarantine mental-breakdowns, micro sport shorts to dance topless in your neighborhood, or wherever you can.
Amongst all the intriguing fashion walking down the track, I have to point out the pleated skirts laid over jeans. This look is reminiscent of the boys showing their support to the dresscoded girl students, wearing skirts to school. The Celine adaptation is a more street friendly version of that style, #FemboyFriday as an every day go-to outfit.
Hedi Slimane’s style has evolved. After his years creating for houses with already established visions, such as Dior and Saint Laurent, it’s a delight to see models walking arounds wearing the fruit of his craftsmanship. A bolder, colourful version of the Slimane’s style is showcased here through the traits of young internet boys and the cool kids that make us fall in love from the other side of the screen. The characters may easily be swiped away and replaced by a cute cat video, but the garments will stay on our minds and eyes much longer.
Text by Marien Brandon
Images Courtesy of Celine