PRADA FALL 21 MENSWEAR REVIEW AND CONVERSATION

18.01.2021, Fashion News
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Prada’s fall 2021 collection „possible feelings“ took place this Sunday the 17th as a digital showcase and the title is just right. I found out I may have possible feelings for this show. The reveal of this collection was highly awaited as it was the first menswear collection under the co-direction of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons (for whom menswear is his specialty.) Below we give impressions of the new collection, and we speak with Rosie Davenport , who was a part of the after show’s conversation with Raf and Miuccia.

Prada set the tone of the season by delivering a modern take on menswear. Far from the traditional and the impeccable Italian tailoring, suits and fitted wool coats are reinterpreted in a casual way, thanks to large cuts and rolled up sleeves, allowing liberty of motions. This every day wardrobe, inspired by office wear, is dripping in the kitsch -yet tasteful- Prada DNA. In fact, the prints and patterns are colorful and close to the psychedelic. We already noticed a strong 70’s revival on the runway recently (see Dior, Dries van Noten, and Raf’s namesake collection). Prada is leading the trend once again thanks to a re-take on Miuccia’s work.

Pastel colors will be a go-to next fall, which may seams unusual but appears mandatory to illuminate our upcoming rainy days and lockdown attitudes. The joyfulness of the Italian brand is contagious. I’m already looking forward to fashion victims wearing knee-length knitted sweaters on the streets. This collection is highlighted by the not-so-street-friendly knitted jumpsuit in contrasting shades, a must-have for the financial magnates stuck in home-office. Accessory-wise, the slightly overused nylon pockets seen last season on boots and belts from all colors and shapes are this time added to gloves and raincoats, bringing a utilitarian twist to the collection.

The real jaw-dropper of the season is the A-shaped leather jacket with its oversized cut, oversized silver button, and oversized pockets. The simplicity in it’s practicality is reminiscent of a post-soviet uniform. A highly desirable look …!

This well-constructed Fall collection continues the never ending series of successful projects coming from Prada and once again resonates in tone as a modern fashion house that is not only setting the framework for fashion to come, but is tuned in with its younger audience The only questionable point we make here is the lack of diversity, notably in size ranges. This seems not yet common enough in menswear shows, even though womenswear has branched out in its inclusivity.

As the last model ends their journey though the mesmerizing set (looking as cozy as the pieces from the collection, thanks to its irresistible faux fur walls, and the show invite which arrived in a fur box) the video switched to another room, where we found Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons facing a giant screen. Promising students from around the world digitally appeared on-screen, one-by-one, to discuss the creative process behind this collection and led a trans-generatonal talk.

Central Saint Martins student, Rosie Davenport, had the opportunity to join this meaningful meeting and chose to further share some of her impressions and thoughts with us at Numero Berlin:

Numero Berlin: First of all, I would love to know, what did you think of this opportunity, granted by such important figures of the fashion industry?

Rosie Davenport: I think it is amazing that Prada has given the opportunity for students to ask questions in this way! It feels so personal and intimate, which I think complements the collection so well. It is about being very open with their feelings and emotions and  allowing us to grasp a deeper understanding of who they are and how they are feeling. I got the vibe off them that they wanted to know about us and our feelings towards the show too. It felt so comfortable and calm. We weren’t rushed at all. It felt super personable.

NB: Why is the voice of youth important in the current world and in the fashion industry ?

RD: I think it is great for both designers to get a sense of who the youth of today are, and what we have taken from their work. There were philosophy students, fashion marketing students and journalists, as well as designers and specialists in menswear, so the interview covered so much ground. The things discussed were so broad and went way deeper than simply talking garments. I loved how they also asked the questions back to the interviewee and actually wanted to gain insight!

MB: Just between us, how does it feel to see yourself virtually appear during a Prada show?

RD: I was shocked seeing myself on the big screen! I am so happy to have been given the opportunity and also to see just how lovely both designers really are. It’s such a plunge into the deep end for my first week at art school, but I feel honored and so lucky!

Text by Marien Brandon
Interview of Rosie Davenport /   @ rosie.davenport
All images and video courtesy of Prada

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