It’s Riccardo Tisci third year as the artistic director of Burberry and he still manages to surprise us. Burberry’s fall 2021 collection was shown from the Regent Street flagship store in London, in beige immensity, pure and mesmerising.
As a foreigner, I think I was first missing a certain appreciation of Britishness to fully understand the appeal of Burberry. But after a few months in London, I feel like I’m getting there: I am beginning to enjoy this particular elegance with an extravagant twist, an underlying humorous take on fashion.
Tisci caught my attention with the release of his Spring 2021 collection, which I found interesting on many aspects, but I’m now fully convinced of the greatness of his work within the British house.
The womenswear is a perfect balance between softness and structures. On one hand, the Italian presents for us a modern and elegant tailoring. Panels of fabric are added to the sides of the pants, or of the shoulders creating an illusion of shapes and line- a new silhouette of the suit-making excellence emblematic of British fashion. Pants are buttoned at the ankle to assure a certain stiffness. The devil is found in the details. On the other hand, flowy vestal dresses in gold lamé and muted nudes; looking as they were made for modern grecian goddess, are compensating the super-structured approach of the tailored pieces, resulting in a very versatile wardrobe.
The britishness is found through the playful oversized fur coat and bags -all fake!- reminiscent of a post-pandemic mindset, tending to bring us back to our roots, closer to nature. The Burberry woman will return to the woods adorned in astrological prints and eco-fur, dressed to contemplate the moon.
We have to pay credit to the amazing translucid tops covered in gold buttons, just sexy enough to not be vulgar. I’m looking forward to seeing the gold embellishments shine under the dance floor lights. Have fun with it.
This collection is made as an homage to womanhood. Indeed, feminity can be found in many forms, under numerous appearances, as well as on a Burberry runway through the creative pulses of Riccardo Tisci. I enjoyed being emerged in this modern take on British fashion, far from the over-use of tartan and military jackets. Tisci offers us a new take on Britishness. I understand now.
Text by Marien Brandon
Images courtesy of Burberry