The Vetements Spring 2022 collection has just been released and there is a lot going on, as always. So we cracked the codes and tried to decrypt the fashion codes of the most anti-fashion brand of them all.
Based in Zurich, Switzerland, Guram Gvasalia designed once again a larger than large collection with 129 looks. The choice of Zurich already says a lot about his design politics. It’s his way to challenge the fashion dictatorship of the likes of Paris and Milan and question the idea of „fashion cities“ making the trends and centering the world’s attention on their fashion weeks.
The lookbook is presented with a png-like background, allowing the looks to be photoshopped, altered and digitally manipulated. We live in a digital world, and Vetements knows it, adopting a design attitude turned towards Instagram, mocking our appearing self-centrism. On a sweater we can read the message „Devil doesn’t wear Prada“ adding another layer of irony, questioning the references of pop-culture in fashion and our lives.
For Guram Gvasalia we live in a world of references, which brought, with no surprise, numerous Matrix inspirations. From the coding lines prints to the leather coats, Vetements glamorizes our simulation and the casted models appear to be characters of actions films, starring a dolled up blonde beauty, a nerdy sidekick or a badass warrior with a buzzcut and tattoos.
The line-up of looks couldn’t be more diverse as the simple jeans-and-t-shirt-combo is followed by ball gowns and sharp tailored suits. The brand has definitely came a long way and proposes us for next summer much more than logo t-shirts, a Vetements staple, but surprisingly well thought out suits and evening dresses. Although, the amount of looks presented every season feels forced and is rather unnecessary, it’s probably a way to mock the fashion system once again. And it worked.
The abundance of prints such as flames, stripes and flowers creates an interesting layering of colours and shapes and allowed the looks to be too much, clashing, fun. Bold.
Although the day Vetements will present more edited collections is still awaited, the free-minded approach of their designs should be celebrated as well as the evolution of the brand, which used to be the prime of streetwear and now entered the most fashionable circles.
Words by Marien Brandon
Images Courtesy of Vetements