UFF. Expectations are more than met. Mind is blown. The revolution is here. Debuting yesterday in Milan Fashion Week, Glenn Martens takes the Diesel imaginary far beyond the limits the brand has built until now.
After three years of absence from catwalks, Diesel is back and serving looks. With a total of 69 pieces, Martens is able to give life once again to the dormant brand- creating a seductive dialogue between the roughness of denim and Y/Project infused avant-garde.
The show opens in complete dark. A small synth-y baseline swirls around the space, gaining speed beat after beat. Spherical, metallic sounds start filling up the atmosphere. You’re not sure of what’s coming but you know its gonna be huge. Inhale, exhale. You hear the breathing of a creature layered to the already unearthly sensorial experience. Red flickering lights slowly appear from the ceiling- reminiscing those sweaty infused memories between the walls of Berghain’s dark rooms. The breathing gets faster and faster. And with the beating of the first kick drum, the lights are on.
A red carpet extends upon the whole surface of the floor, where colossal blown-up sculptures of humans seductively lie upon. And without even the time to fully understand what is going on around you, the first look is out. Low waisted slung jeans recall the aesthetics of the early 2000s, while the distressing on the waist and crotch area refreshes the eye with a signature Martens detail. Among distressing, the all-gender collection employs a variety of innovative techniques on vintage Diesel staples such as upcycling, trompe l’oeil and the inclusion of some of the brand’s first pieces made entirely from recyclable denim, cotton, and elastane.
Following on from denim a shiny grey leather look-alike trench coat specifically caught our attention, together with a nappa leather co-ord piece which screams comfort. Impossible not to mention is the leather belt transformed into a mini-skirt, mimicking that Miu Miu skirt set which the fashion world can not get enough of- and providing stylists with an alternative solution to it. Trending item apart, an honorable mention goes to Marten’s excessive use of volume with the outdoor pieces. The total denim oversized trench coat conveys softness and movement despite its classic fabric rigidity. Padded overcoats made from fringed denim resemble fur, once again showcasing Martens’ application of illusionary techniques to the garments.
Martens has surely been one of the busiest designers of the season. Starting from his collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier for Y/Project’s Fall Winter 22′ collection, the Belgian designer has been delivering. And with yesterday’s debut in Milan, we can say with certainty: Glenn Martens, you did it again.
Words by Costanza Acernese
Picture courtesy of DIESEL