S.S.Daley Autumn Winter 2022 collection was a blessing on a personal level. One of those rare experiences in which fashion touches the soul, I left the show space from London Fashion Week thinking of how much I need to own each and every piece I just saw. On a deeper level, I related to way more than this primary material thought. Daley’s fashion was showcased in movement while I was moved.
Steven Stokey Daley is known for merging fashion and theatre during his presentations. The bundles of flowers thrown all over the catwalks floor already announced a glorious ending, in pure theatrical tradition. A cast of dancers modelled the collection in the most captivating way. Touching each other, interacting bodies falling in love before splitting paths again. Jumping on a bed or climbing on furniture pieces, the performance been as emotional as entertaining.
Daley admit, “As I worked on the collection, I started writing my own narrative. For each look, I gave it a character. It jumps from different periods and reference points, merging with my ideas of theatre and movement, to build my own modern-day period drama.”
Fashion-wise, a delight. His vision of menswear reemploys dressing codes from the 18th century in Britain but in the most modern of the ways. A soft masculinity is portrayed here, reemploying patriarchal’s dressing to dismantle it. This season showcased the firsts women pieces from the designer as well as a large diversity of tailored pieces, a different focus for the brand.
Oversized shirts featured all the prints of iris, poppies and anemones seen in the decor. The striped 18th century inspired suits are soft and large and allows the body to move underneath, fitted to set free. The numerous déclinaisons of palazzo pants are, in my opinion, the next must-have fashion item for men’s and I’m eager to see the best dressed male celebrities wear them.
The story behind this collection is divided into two parts, beginning inside the stately home -post modern noble British construction – before heading outdoors. Daley interrogates a society that demanded different outfits for specific activities and times of the day and portrays through the cast of dancers, characters representing those codification of the wardrobe. Shoulders and collars proportions are exaggerated questioning what we should wear and why.
We recently discovered that S.S.Daley was part of the semi-finalists of the infamous LVMH prize. Mister Daley you have my vote. Here I am, one day after the show and still revisiting the magic over and over in my head. Inspiring, shouldn’t fashion always feel like that after all?
Words by Marien Brandon
Images courtesy of S.S.DALEY via AiPR