Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt collections are always emulating what we can qualify as Britishness in the fashion realm. An old-school chicness with a note of humor, an added twist to a garment that can appear as simple on the first impression level. If each and every of their collections are somewhat of my favourites on different aspects, the AW2022 collection has topped all others in my eyes. Their is an ethereal dimension brought to the DNA of the label after this show.
The garments presented during London Fashion Week’s were inspired by theatre costume archives and retransformed into a very modern masculine wardrobe. If the theatrical inspired collections can easily fall into the gimmicky, Cooke knew how to balance things out and delivered a collection bold and strong as well as extremely wearable.
Cooke and Burke are strong in the knitwear game and did not disappoint this season with polo featuring deconstructed mock neck fronts. Those pieces will be amazing styling elements as they offer an amazing variety of layering options and can work by themselves as well.
The very sexy fitted suits let us foresee a comeback of a slim silhouette after the reign of oversize cuts. Made from a material, I believe having some threads of lamé intricate, they were shimmering under the spotlights – Skin of Robert Pattinson in Twilight type of shimmer-. The pictures don’t give them justice, trust me, I was blindsided by the light reflected on this amazing fabric. A chainmail made of silver buttons appears next and the catwalk space kept on shining.
The historical inspirations could be seen throughout the collection as shoulder pads and bustle were accessorising the looks. The undergarments became the outer layers of those outfits, creating such strong and interesting silhouettes. The inside out construction of the couture in front of me, got me all shambled, as well.
Overall, a collection with great individual pieces so smartly put together. Stefan Cooke proved once again that you don’t need to send 80 looks down the runway when you do things right. Edited, with tasteful references, how a collection should be done.
Words by Marien Brandon
Images courtesy of Stefan Cooke via AiPR