This season London Fashion Week was rather a fashion weekend. Most of the more established British designers and London-based heritage brands, including the likes of Vivienne Westwood or Burberry, were missed on the catwalks for S/S23.
Some decided to present their collections according to a more gender neutral calendar or simply opted for a Paris Fashion Week launch instead.
What was left was an amazing opportunity for newer creatives to shine without being overshadowed by the presence of the industry’s powerhouses. It may have lacked of elitism for some but at Numéro Berlin we take at heart supporting emerging talents and discovering fashion through different lenses and perspectives.
It’s with the aim of sharing the beauty found in the work of London’s coolest emerging creatives that we collaborated with Welsh photographer Lowri Cooperwho explores the crafts through a raw, magnifying glass. Cooper takes us in the backstages of London Fashion Week and captured, with her unique saturated and glossed style, all the silhouettes we need to see from closer, the details we missed and everything appealing to her eyes -or to ours, it’s menswear after all-.
Our third instalment of the week is Carlota Barrera. After graduating From London College of fashion’s menswear MA in 2017 Barrera launched her first collection entitled ‘The Matador and The Fisherman’ in 2019 exploring her Spanish heritage through a modern approach of menswear.
The love we feel for a country or a culture is hard to express. It is an irrational attraction which, most of the time, can’t be put into words. Barrera shares this irrational love in her design and exults in her tailoring the relax and cool Cuban way of life. After first visiting the country in 2001, her vision of Cuban culture evolved and deepened as many times as she returned. The result of that heart to runway translation is an exquisite collection which needs to be in everyone’s summer wardrobe.
Tank tops and suits are emblazoned from abstract blue print -very Cuban color- and reminds of the waves collapsing onto each others. The materials are airy and easy to wear during heatwaves with cottons, linen and silk mélanges which gave a natural and earthy feel to the collection. Featuring signature cutouts and opening Barrera’s tailoring is modern and extremely wearable.
Forget about the sharp suits from Savile Row. The technique is here, but you can wear those on the beach or to go out -simply, anytime of the day-. The newest addition to her tailoring arsenal is the jacket featuring an open back tied with strings. Now imagine, a wedding in Tuscany and the groom is wearing such a piece. Refreshing.
From the garments, to the colours, the soundtracks (by Amaliah Peche that mixes Cuban references, trumpets, instrumental electronic beats and voices and field recordings from the streets of Havana.) This collection represent a coolness that isn’t only retranslated onto the garments solely but also in the attitude of the wearers. It’s an ambiance. A state of soul.
Words by Marien Brandon
Photography by Lowri Cooper
All looks from Carlota Barrera SS23