ON OUR RADAR

29.09.2022, On our radar
 
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Numéro Berlin’s weekly collection of the most exciting news about fashion, music, and simply everything that is on our radar. And here is why it should be on yours as well!

GUCCI TWINSBURG
“As if by magic, clothes duplicate. They seem to lose their status of singularity. The effect is alienating and ambiguous. Almost a rift in the idea of identity, and then, the revelation: the same clothes emanate different qualities on seemingly identical bodies. Fashion, after all, lives on serial multiplications that don’t hamper the most genuine expression of every possible individuality.” – Alessandro Michele

Alessandro Michele revealed his latest collection for Gucci across two runways, each a reflection of the other. Twinsburg creates a tension in the relationship between original and copy. As if by magic, the clothes multiply. They seem to lose their status of uniqueness. The effect is alienating and ambiguous. Almost a crack in the idea of identity and then the revelation: identical clothes radiate different qualities on seemingly identical bodies. Fashion, after all, thrives on serial duplication, which does not hinder the most authentic expression of any possible individuality. This asymmetrical interaction establishes the deepest meaning of the twin relationship. It is the mirroring relationship between identity and otherness: the co-presence of different subjects in connection. In fact, all twins are aware from birth that they are not at the center of the universe. They are used to living with another self. The boundaries of their body do not coincide with the boundaries of their being.

NEW BALANCE X CARHARTT WIP
New Balance and Carhartt WIP presenting their capsule collection that includes a reimagined version of the classic 990v1 sneaker silhouette, as well as a series of apparel and accessories. The collection is based on the idea of the Sculpture Center, a mix of humble neighborhood gyms across America. The resulting styles feature a palette of dark blues and grays, while trophy motifs and college-inspired typography are found throughout. First introduced in 1982, the New Balance 990v1 was originally a running shoe that combined mesh and suede in muted tones. The New Balance x Carhartt WIP has reinterpreted its hairy suede upper with a signature mesh lower and features a woven tongue label and subtle reflective elements on the heel tab and logo. The accompanying garments further pick up on the capsule theme. The Carhartt WIP Arcan Jacket is made of washed-out canvas and features a snap-closure hood. Both the outer material and the blanket lining feature graphic elements from the collection. There are also a number of jersey staples – including a new short-sleeve sweatshirt – that have been dyed and washed throughout. Rounding out the collection are graphic T-shirts and accessories, including a reversible hat, towel and water bottle made by Nalgene. Shot by UK-based photographer Theo Cottle and with art direction from Nicolas Poillot, the corresponding campaign spotlights the collaboration through a series of still and moving images.To celebrate the release of New Balance x Carhartt WIP, both brands will join forces with Bodega for a pop-up shop located in the historic city of Boston, Massachusetts, home to New Balance world headquarters.

FERRARI SPRING/SUMMER 2023 COLLECTION
On the 25th of September the Ferrari fashion show to place in Milan. The new Ferrari collection breaks away from the narrative references explored in recent seasons to reflect and enhance the visions, ambitions and emotions that revolve around the values of the racehorse, the brands trademark. Milan represents the symbolic place for the representation of the stories of man and as a metaphor for the human component of the brand. With a constantly evolving ethical and aesthetic language, the creative director Rocco Iannone chooses the narrative of a dream.The inspirations of the season are reflected in a consistent and refined evolution of Ferrari style codes. Innovation and material research go hand in hand with fusion to project the wardrobe into a free dimension where mixes and contrasts become the expression of contemporary aesthetics. Tailoring, workwear and racing coexist in the same collection, expressing the different souls of Ferrari. While the brand’s iconic silhouettes are renewed and reinvented to continue last season’s experiments, new elements and lines give the look a distinctive yet casual, cool and relaxed tone.

TEKLA X JJJJOUND COLLAB
Tekla and JJJJound are launching their limited bedding collection. The collection consist of linen duvet covers, pillow shams and top sheets in an exclusive taupe colourway, reminding of fall and looking super cozy, comfortable and soft. The collection uses Tekla’s high quality open weave linen. The extra-long flax yarn used guarantees strength and durability, ensuring that the fabric remains soft and gentle for years to come. Each piece in the collection features a white embroidered JJJJound logo, which is positioned to create a layered effect on a made bed. Tekla is known for an honest commitment to uncompromising quality, which it continues to build on through close collaboration with its production partners. As a brand, it recognises its responsibility to mitigate its impact. It rejects rapid trend cycles by designing for longevity and producing responsibly. With JJJJound as a partner, they created a collection that has a sustainable purpose and longevity. JJJJound has grown in the last decade into a collaborative design studio that aims to inspire through multiple channels.

SAINT LAURENT WOMEN’S SUMMER 23
Saint Laurent presents Women’s Summer 23 by Anthony Vaccarello. In the video women are lying at the pool on chairs wearing colorful clothes sunglasses and enjoying the weather. The scenario looks harmonious and beautiful. The long dresses are made of a thin fabric that lies gently on the body. Women’s bodies are enveloped by the structures of these dresses. The clothing comes in very different colors, such as pink, green, brown or black. Each dress thus has a different character that suits the woman.

A BETTER MISTAKE SS23
A Better Mistake takes part the first time at Milan Fashion Week and presents a preview of their genderless Spring/Summer 23 collection and their latest series of see-now-buy-now drops, which include Influx, a collaboration with visual artist Kushlet, Aoi and the freshly launched Persona. Eternal explores the intersection of digital and physical worlds, and wants to define the value of the digital as a whole, within the installation Alter Dimensions. The brand’s iconic Touch Me intarsia garments, made from premium Italian viscose and techno yarn, appear in a new acid green variation. The silk twinset is made of an exclusive, thick silk fabric in a diagonal structure. The Eternal Print created by New York artist Running File, can be seen on several pieces: The quilted Eternal jacket with a special print on the front and back, the silk shirt with an additional Chromo print on the chest and the technical dress in a tight and short silhouette. The Eternal denim look is made from hand-sprayed organic cotton. The presentation is created in collaboration with queer creatives from Berlin and brings the underground mentality of the German capital to Milan. It will take place at the headquarters of A Better Mistake, a transdisciplinary creative space located at Via Fusetti 8,
on the Naviglio Grande, one of the city’s most evocative and vibrant neighborhoods. The collection will not be presented on an ordinary model. It will be brought to life by dancers and performance artists from the most diverse fields. The presentation is not a mere presentation of clothes, but aims to express and to values to be expressed and embodied in an artistic way. Dancers of the great international theater La Scala in Milan, the vogue and rave scene share the stage in a firework of identities.

AMI x ALAN CROCETTI
Alan Crocetti and AMI are dropping their new collaboration with a campaign shot by Sam Rock. This collaboration is part of the Fall/Winter 22 collection. It’s designed around the symbolic theme of the heart theme of the heart. The House AMI offers stylish and wardrobes for men and women, and blurs the boundaries between casual and chic. In an exclusive artistic collaboration, Alexandre Mattiussi, founder of AMI and jewelry designer Alan Crocetti have reinterpreted the Ami de Coeur, the brand’s celebrated symbol, a capital A crowned with a heart. Love, respect, friendship and inclusion: the core values of AMI are in syntony with those of Alan Crocetti and have served as guidelines during the creative process. AMI and Alan Crocetti share the same ethos, that embraces the meaning of Love. The collection includes contemporary pieces in sterling silver, unisex rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets.

TRUSSARDI SPRING/SUMMER 2023
Trussardi presents their Spring/Summer collection for 2023. The collection is associated and inspired by the theme of magic, witchcraft and healing powers. It includes staples of polo shirts, cotton-linen V-neck knits, jeans, jersey draped skirts, cotton shirting, a gossamer nylon long jacket, boxy and lithe linen suiting. Dresses are cut from fluid, shimmered jersey with twisted necklines and cascading hemlines. Floor-length satin gowns are wrapped around the neck and draped with ruching, slits and volant. Men’s evening satin trousers are paired with a long shawl-collared dining jacket. Faux embossed crocodile in lustrous chocolate is in a voluminous bomber jacket and ruched mini skirt, Bermuda shirts, and an overshirt and wide-leg pants for men. A brushed buffalo-effect leather jacket has a rounded, oversized shape. Denim, a signature of the House’s story, is treated with couture finishes: detailed seams, cut-outs, and sculpting constructions. Crystal appliquéd three-dimensional beadings adorn the waist of a pair of fitted jeans, while denim shorts are reimagined, based on an opulent evening piece from the Trussardi archive.

BOTTEGA VENETA SUMMER 2023
Creative director Matthieu Blazy continues to steer a definitive course through craft with his distinct, cross – generational cast. Stories about clothing and character are explored by maker and wearer, an exchange that involves a sense of movement and emotion. The result lies in the balance of something that is felt rather than just seen, in the quiet power of a more private pleasure. Here elegance meets utility, the everyday is infused with meaningful materials and techniques with meaningful materials and techniques that can only be achieved through the traditional craftsmanship of the craftsmen in the Italian ateliers. The simultaneously pragmatic and playful, subtly displaced archetypal
garments are worn with ease by a range of characters that bring a sense of subversion of tradition and of perversion into discretion, with movement, agency, sensuality and life. The performers continue to move, and this season they are -traveled as never before. The idea of a journey and emotional exploration is enhanced by the soundtrack composed especially by Afro-Germans. It is the gestures of the individual that count here, and perhaps that is what Bottega Veneta really stands for: an emotional investment in objects for life.

GIORGIO ARMANI WOMEN’S FASHION SHOW SPRING/SUMMER 2023
This season, the collection of Giorgio Armani called File D’Or is illuminated by golden shimmers that underline the figure, shape details and blend with the textures of fabrics and accessories to decorate them with light. The silhouettes, always complemented by flat shoes, are long, fluid and fleeting like a mirage in the desert: light dust coats, flowing sarouel pants and weightless skirts mingle and overlap in a spontaneous movement that removes all heaviness from the wardrobe to embrace the female figure with sweet spirituality. The exotic looks are complemented by extremely light and modern contemporary fabrics and colors that range from golden neutrals like sand to violet and blue. Mandala motifs convey a feeling of inner lightness, as do the bamboo canes that line the runway. A vision to soothe with dreamy tangibility.

MAGLIANO COLLECTION 2023
Magliano presents their new collection for 2023. Magliano based in Bologna whose shows are amongst the most anticipated during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. For FW22, the designer presents a collection that tells of encounters, amorous and otherwise, in a nocturnal, lunar atmosphere, with a sense of solitude, melancholy. The scenario designed by the artist Davide Stucchi and the choreographer Michele Rizzo takes place in the ARCI Bellezza, a setting of boxing scenes. A raw, cruel film about a mysterious, cruel Milan where the encounter is physical, brutal and violent, takes place in this boxing ring. Precisely on this idea of the different declinations of the encounter that the imagery is fulfilled. The desperate logic of the appointment transforms the particular density of the battlefield into a bed in which, guided by the unconsciousness of inertia, pajamas, tuxedos Pajamas, tuxedo jackets, Swarovski glitter, gold lurex and star prints can be seen. But there are also Raw materials, felt, Shetland, wool, which insulate and protect.

WOOD WOOD FW22
Wood Wood is the brand whose roots are in Copenhagen, famous for its outerwear styles adapted to the streetwear traditions.  The FW22 season proposes an aesthetic which is neat and clean in all its various forms, from the knitted wool vests to the technical accessories, it is always coherent to the creative collaboration with Danish painter Tal R who, for the occasion, opened his archive to create the pieces within the collection. 

DRIES VAN NOTEN SS 2023
Dries Van Noten’s womenswear catwalk show pays homage to intimate moments. Dries Van Noten Womenswear Spring/Summer 23 explores the contrast between the first physical women’s show since 2020. Like the black invitation that gives way to a magnificent technicolor print, the collection goes from dark shades a celebration of optimism. The radical nature of Kazimir Malevich’s Black Square characterizes the segment that exploring this absolute non-color in a series of structured pieces. Jackets with oversized shoulders, dresses with sculptural waists. The pastel shades are muted, a reminder of the color. This restraint allows the details to come to the fore. Crushed pleats, fringe on cargo pants, a waterfall of layers on the body of a dress. Florals are a longtime expression of Dries Van Noten. This season, the house revisits earlier floral designs and manipulates their size. Some are oversized, others are shrunk to micro prints and look like a single mass of patterns. Prints and textures collide.

ETRO SS23 COLLECTION
ETRO presents SS23 Collection by Marco De Vincenzo. Etro’s new creative director, Marco De Vincenzo, began with the origins of the house, bringing lightness and simplicity to a tradition. The heritage is looked at with a new perspective in search of an eccentric and essential aesthetic. The looks are a connection of the past of origins with the future of sustainability. The bags are made of fabrics from Etro’s archives combined with ultra-modern recycled plastics. The brand’s expertise is shown in hand-dyed multicolored cashmere, denim brocades and degradé stripes on cotton shirts. It is in this spirit that Marco De Vincenzo has designed this collection. A great journey from standstill, where the imagination leaves aside the past and looks to the present to construct a wardrobe of dry shapes, of essential pieces with decisive proportions, micro or macro, of a decorativism mixed with the essential that has its roots in the most radiant Italy.

DIOR SPRING/SUMMER 2023
For Dior Spring-Summer 2023, the creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, of the Dior women’s collection mainly uses the image of a Parisian city map from the house’s archives, printed on the back of a scarf and structured around Avenue Montaigne. In this way, she traces her own path between autobiography and reflection. Then comes the Garden of the Tuileries, commissioned by Catherine de Medici. This Italian woman, who arrived at the French court in 1533, remains a symbolic figure of the relationship between women and power, and fascinates Maria Grazia Chiuri for her political intelligence, but also for the innovations she introduced, such as the heels, the corset and the Burano lace, which was introduced into the royal manufactories. This collection is a tribute to fashion as an art of invention, capable of constantly redefining the city of Paris while allowing the many facets of its history to live on. Fashion as an urban concept, a showcase of clothes that color the spaces of our time; the city as a backdrop for the material and immaterial imagination of fashion and beyond. The urban plan as a means of staging a city to express the cultural complexity of our time and celebrate the power of the women who move in it every day.

 DAILY PAPER’S 10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY
To celebrate Daily Paper’s 10th anniversary, the brand hosted an epic party in its hometown of Amsterdam last weekend, September 24. To celebrate the brand’s tenth anniversary, friends and family of the brand traveled from all corners of the world for the special occasion. The festivities took place at the iconic Paradiso cultural venue and were all about Daily Paper. Creativity, culture and community came together on this memorable night, proving the brand’s ability to unite global communities. The venue had two stages showcasing the lineup of live acts and DJs, including international names like Headie One, Amaarae, Juls, Zlatan, Asakaa Boys, Walshy Fire and Andre Power, as well as national acts like Cho, Sor, NNelg, Abstract and Full Crate. The bar was hosted by the Havana Club, and the room was decorated with the motto Against all odds, representing the ability to overcome adversity and the improbability of succeeding.

Image courtesy of mentioned brands/Pr

ON OUR RADAR

Numéro Berlin’s weekly collection of the most exciting news about fashion, music, and simply everything t …


ON OUR RADAR

Numéro Berlin’s weekly collection of the most exciting news about fashion, music, and simply everything t …