Culture – Numéro Berlin https://www.numeroberlin.de Thu, 29 May 2025 14:59:08 +0000 en-US hourly 1 SCHAU, FENSTER AT KADEWE: IN CONVERSATION WITH SEBASTIAN HOFFMANN https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/05/schau-fenster-at-kadewe-in-conversation-with-sebastian-hoffmann/ Fri, 02 May 2025 11:15:13 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=59116

From April 22 to May 10, 2025, KaDeWe becomes a site of transformation – turning its iconic display windows for the first time into a public exhibition space. Curated by Sebastian Hoffmann and featuring contributions from ten different artists and galleries, SCHAU, FENSTER at KaDeWe is an official part of the Gallery Weekend Berlin 2025 program.

Sebastian Hoffmann shares how the project came to life, the curatorial thinking behind it and what shifts when display windows are reimagined as an art gallery.

Numéro Berlin: To start with, could you tell us a bit about your background and your work as a curator?

Sebastian Hoffmann: I worked in the art trade for quite a bit, as a co-gallerist organizing exhibitions and programs. Two and a half years ago, two friends and I founded an interior firm called Tadan – we like to call ourselves “decorators”. So I’m surprised curating has remained a part of what we do and as important to me as before. The spectrum between decorating and curating is narrower than I thought. They’re really not the same, however, they’re both about relating things to each other and spaces, situations.

How did your collaboration with KaDeWe come about?

We’d done a couple of smaller projects before, including a loan for the brasserie upstairs – black-and-white photographs by the Latvian artist Edgars Gluhovs, of a wine tasting and paired with a quote from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”: “Anybody with their nose pressed against a glass is liable to look stupid.“ After that, I jokingly ended an email with: “Next up – the windows…”

So it started out as a joke?

That kind of joke you wish becomes a reality. And then, a few weeks later, they somehow picked it up and asked if we could talk about it. KaDeWe had collaborated with artists before, but I wanted to do something with no products from the store. Then we had the idea to align it with Gallery Weekend. That’s why all participating artists are represented by galleries involved in the festival’s program.

What’s your personal connection to KaDeWe?

I’ve been going there since the ’90s – mostly with my grandmother. Whenever she said her lipstick had run out, I knew we were going to KaDeWe. In hindsight, it was probably just an excuse, no lipstick’s gone that quickly – but it becamone of our rituals. I live nearby now, still go often, even just to wander around.

What were the biggest challenges in curating this kind of gallery?
A display window isn’t a typical exhibition space, it has spacial volume but allows only one perspective. We encouraged the artists to treat the window as a medium in itself. It’s a bit like a stage.
How did you combine your own curatorial vision with the commercial demands of the project?

Very much. They were in for all the irritation. And it works – if you hang around the storefront for 20 minutes, you’ll see all kinds of reactions from passersby and learn so much. Highly recommended!

You also talk about the window as an artistic medium. What exactly does that mean for you?

Each window is a different case. Benjamin Heisenberg’s video piece, for example, runs on old TVs – like in a vintage electronics store. Isabella Ducrot’s large-scale painting functions like a stage set. Every window required its own approach.

How does curating in public space differ from working in a gallery?

You reach people who didn’t actively decide to look at art. Most come across this exhibition by accident. Sometimes one person stops and others follow, changing the dynamic entirely. That’s also why we wanted the windows to be as heterogeneous as possible.

How thin is the line between art and commercial display when art is shown in a shop window?

Very thin – and that’s what makes it exciting and adds more potential to the works shown. Pamela Rosenkranz’s “Pour Yourself“, a set of Evian bottles could easily be mistaken for a product display. John Miller’s “Dress Rehearsal for the Revolution“ is a band consisting of mannequins, this band is entirely confusing in all their dead-pan glory. For this work, the project is a „homecoming“, somehow.

What did you focus on when selecting the artists?

Some names and even works came to mind immediately – Josefine Reich, John Miller, Saâdane Afif who, with his ready-made approach, created a minimal yet effective work using reflective road sign foil – even the windowpane becomes part of the piece.

You reference the tradition of 1960s New York window displays. What inspires you about that?

Artists like Warhol, Rauschenberg, or Jasper Johns worked with or for department store windows with creative freedom of sorts but always with products from the stores.

What does it mean for art to be accessible around the clock, outside of institutional opening hours?

It’s a gift. The displays are especially striking at night – with movement, light, reflections. The city becomes part of the work. People are more focused, less distracted. The viewing experience is different at every part of the day.

What happens when curated art meets an accidental audience?

New meanings emerge. Alexandra Bircken’s window shows a sculpture containing motorbike gas tanks, hair, fire – familiar but disorienting elements. It catches people and that tension between recognition and confusion creates engagement.

We’ve reversed it: here, it’s the art taking over the store.
What do you take away from this project for your future work?

Optimism. The collaboration was smooth – with all the galleries, especially the artists and the store. And it’s a reminder: irritation is a good thing. It opens doors, especially outside traditional spaces.

And finally – if someone passes by a window and stops, what would you consider a successful encounter with the art?

People actually stopping, really looking – maybe even missing their bus. Or the father who came with his daughter three days in a row to pick a new favorite window each day. That’s the best thing that could happen.

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Supercontinent “fashion”: Numéro Berlin in conversation with Emanuele Coccia https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/04/supercontinent-fashion-numero-berlin-in-conversation-with-emanuele-coccia/ Fri, 04 Apr 2025 14:44:46 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=58709

Sometimes, says Italian philosopher and author Emanuele Coccia, we forget that for a long time, garments were made out of animal skin. For centuries, fashion meant putting oneself under the skin of another life form. If debated correctly, could fashion become an instrument to shape our future, reinventing our relationship with each other, nature, and freedom, serving as a global, planetary language?

As part of the International Talent Support initiative ITS contest, philosopher Emanuele Coccia and fashion curator and expert Olivier Saillard have curated a second exhibition titled ‘Fashionlands – Clothes Beyond Borders’, which is now open in Trieste for the next 10 months. The show explores the changing boundaries of fashion and its role in contemporary society, as well as the power of experimental creations in comparison to the symbolic value of everyday clothing. Questioning the concept of dressing and creative freedom, the duo selected works by 23 designers from the permanent collection of ITS Arcademy, supported by beautiful still life photographs from Gabriele Rosati, capturing the functional and timeless nature of clothes that can transcend the idea of classes and luxury. A public choice award will reward the designer receiving the most votes from visitors throughout the 10 months – the winner will receive a €5,000 prize in January 2026.

The ITS Contest, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2022 and has significantly contributed to the careers of contemporary creative directors and designers such as Matthieu Blazy, Demna Gvasalia, and Richard Quinn, is an integral part of a unique ecosystem, complemented by ITS Arcademy – Museum of Art in Fashion, the first and only contemporary fashion museum in Italy. For this year’s contest, Barbara Franchin, President of Fondazione ITS and founder of ITS Contest, in collaboration with an international jury, has selected 10 young finalists from China, the UK, Belgium, Germany, and France, all of whom showed a new, liberating, and refreshing perspective on fashion. “Offering all designers the opportunity to grow together is a new answer to the global and ethical challenges of our time. Focusing on collaboration instead of competition was the most responsible choice to enhance the potential of this new generation of designers,” says Franchin. “The main challenge for designers and fashion is to be able to value things and nurture the idea of material values,” says Serge Carreira, Director of the Emerging Brands Initiative at the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode and a member of the ITS contest jury, in a conversation with Numéro Berlin. “What is interesting is that most of the projects selected this year also focused on innovation in the creative process as well as in the making process and craftsmanship. Luxury is a matter of excellence, not price.”

Numéro Berlin spoke to philosopher Emanuele Coccia about why the industry’s issue is, above all, a lack of proper debates. This week, his and Alessandro Michele’s new book “Das Leben der Formen” will launch in Germany. Before traveling to Munich, we caught up with him at the ITS Arcademy during the inauguration days of the ITS contest.

Sina Braetz: I just had a wonderful tour of your new exhibition. It’s very, very beautiful. Where did this all start?

Emanuele Coccia: It’s the second exhibition Olivier and I are doing. In this case, the theme was extremely clear. The overall intention was to produce a sort of new cartography of fashion to explore, on one side, how fashion invented and created a new language that is globally and planetary relevant. Unlike many other artistic artifacts, fashion produces objects that are perfectly readable and understandable from Beijing to Los Angeles, from Dakar to Sydney, from Paris to Buenos Aires. Of course, the process of becoming planetary has gone through violent and problematic phases, but it’s clear now that this is not something accessory to fashion because, in a way, fashion is the exercise of adding something new to your body or mixing your anatomical identity with something completely exterior. Some pieces are recognized as more intimate than your own body. It’s always this exercise of trespassing the border of your skin, and because of that, no other border becomes relevant.

Sina Braetz: I just had a wonderful tour of your new exhibition. It’s very, very beautiful. Where did this all start?

Emanuele Coccia: It’s the second exhibition Olivier and I are doing. In this case, the theme was extremely clear. The overall intention was to produce a sort of new cartography of fashion to explore, on one side, how fashion invented and created a new language that is globally and planetary relevant. Unlike many other artistic artifacts, fashion produces objects that are perfectly readable and understandable from Beijing to Los Angeles, from Dakar to Sydney, from Paris to Buenos Aires. Of course, the process of becoming planetary has gone through violent and problematic phases, but it’s clear now that this is not something accessory to fashion because, in a way, fashion is the exercise of adding something new to your body or mixing your anatomical identity with something completely exterior. Some pieces are recognized as more intimate than your own body. It’s always this exercise of trespassing the border of your skin, and because of that, no other border becomes relevant.

How did you work on the curation process of the designs?

What was interesting for us was to show how a kind of artificial universality is produced because, in a way, unlike other representations, universality in fashion is always produced by sewing elements together or by composing different memories, traditions, and nationalities. With our selection, we wanted to show garments that embody or unify different memories, traditions, genders, and silhouettes. That was the criterion for the choice of objects. It was extremely important for us to stress that, for fashion, every identity is a mixture or hybrid of different identities. There is no pure identity.

You are also showcasing a beautiful still life series shot by Gabriele Rosati…

Yes, this was the second element. We wanted a young photographer who excels in still lifes of garments without human beings. The point was to grasp those basic forms that fashion has invented, like jeans, t-shirts, gloves, trench coats, etc., which are also universal in the sense that they are used by both the wealthy and non-wealthy, by every gender, and by every designer. In a way, they are forms available to everybody, but they are already meaningful or significant. The trench coat expresses a sort of urban mystery but can also signify much more. Items such as trench coats are basic elements of the universal language of fashion, and Gabriele was extremely talented in understanding this idea. He managed to express the almost Platonic essence of each garment. The choice of black and white emphasized this idea, depicting the garments as something anonymous. We see these forms every day, but they are becoming almost invisible; Gabriele made these forms in their strangeness visible again.

In your book ‘Fashionlands – Clothes Beyond Borders,’ you also discuss the relationship between fashion and time. Fashion is the only art that actually uses time to create space. Can you explain this?

First of all, in a way, fashion is the only medium capable of crossing the limits of time. You cannot paint like we did in the 20s; it would be considered kitsch if you tried. In fashion, you can genuinely take past events and reinterpret them, liberating the past from its original context. You give these forms a new power to disrupt the present. It’s very strange since the chemical treatment of time allows us—through fashion—to escape from our life, both from the past and present.

Is it a liberation…?

Yes. There are many good examples; for instance, when Yves Saint Laurent in the 70s started using forms and styles from the 40s, it wasn’t an assertion that we should return to the 40s; rather, during the 40s, women were particularly powerful—men were off to war, so women were in control of the city. His idea was to use these forms to embody empowerment for women. The treatment of time and this characteristic of being borderless—not just in spatial terms but also in temporal dimensions—gives fashion incredible power. No other art form has this capacity. Of course, paintings, sculptures, and architecture are all practices that offer us freedom, but fashion grants us freedom every single day, in a public form, for every single body, because everyone is meant to be dressed.

The relationship between fashion and nature, as well as fashion and the psyche, were also topics reflected in your curation. What do you think is fashion’s greatest potential for the future? Could it help re-establish a connection between humans and nature?

Sometimes we forget that for a long time, garments were made from animal skin; thus, having a garment meant, for centuries, putting oneself under the skin of another life form. From this perspective, there are potentials that could allow fashion to reinvent our relationship with nature. Even among this year’s finalists, there are at least three projects truly focusing on this aspect. I believe it’s an issue that more and more young designers are considering in their work. I think that because of fashion’s universality—being an inescapable art, everyone must pass through it—fashion holds a vast potential for renewing our relationship with other life forms and allowing us to understand what it means to be under the skin of another.

Yes, adding to this: It is a powerful form and tool to unify people because it represents one of the strongest democracies. You discuss this as well.

This is actually something fashion radically engaged with in the 50s and 60s: when haute couture brands decided to open ready-to-wear lines, it marked the final divorce from the notion of fashion as an instrument of distinction, a class, or proof of economic and social superiority. There is a stylistic line that transcends all classes, so what fashion must do is not distinguish classes but capture the spirit of the time. That was the main idea and what granted fashion its enormous democratic potential. However, unfortunately, in the last decade—let’s say the past 20 years—a lot of companies have tried to revert to the idea of fashion as luxury, which is exactly the opposite, limiting access to very few people. This is an extremely conservative and reactionary idea. Luxury is not fashion. Fashion can, of course, embrace and include luxury, but luxury is not necessarily fashion. What those groups are doing together is extremely dangerous because it’s not just about economic politics; it’s an attempt to kill the spirit of what fashion is.

So how would you intervene and promote the right values?

Let’s start with this institute here. It is so important because it does not follow the same model as other competitions like ANDAM, LVMH, or even HYRÈS, which tend to select candidates who share the same core profile as those at the helm of big companies. Here—you saw the candidates this year—you can find much more diversity. Some candidates do not produce with the intention of entering the industry. They create passionately and in a very diverse manner. This is also happening on different scales in different countries, in the sense that many students coming from fashion schools do not want to work in these large industries. They are trying to invent new commercial networks where, for instance, their creations are sold in art galleries, rather than in this huge retail system. So, that is one aspect. Another is that perhaps we should discuss new generations more—magazines shouldn’t solely focus on big names, but on the fashion produced by every single human being. We should really extend the discourse around fashion.

Would you see this as an educational deficit?

Yes, we finally need to integrate fashion into education at schools. Fashion is the only art that is not significantly taught at schools or universities, unless specified. Every person studying human and social sciences is expected to know a bit about the history of painting, sculpture, and architecture, but society tolerates ignorance regarding the history of fashion. This is also a fault of the big brands because, in a way, they are responsible for the lack of discourse surrounding fashion. They do not produce interesting discursive elements such as art galleries or books; they do not encourage people to write essays on their products. In essence, fashion companies are never interested in discourse; they assume that consumers who buy fashion are entirely illiterate. Just to give you an example, the fact that Miuccia Prada opened the foundation in Milan and showcased everything but never garments evidences their belief that fashion is simply business and not art. Otherwise, they would have displayed some of it.

It might not apply to the Prada universe, but in general, is it not easier to keep people in an ignorant state to sell products?

Of course. If you promote and push certain values, then everyone will resist attempts to identify fashion with luxury. This ignorance also impedes people from appropriating fashion. That’s why it is also their responsibility. It is a crime that Chanel or other big companies like Balenciaga do not open their archives. Coco Chanel, it is evident, advanced humanity; she liberated many women. How can it be that the owners of this heritage hide it in the suburbs of Paris, believing they cannot show it for fear of being copied? It is such a ridiculous and irresponsible attitude from a cultural standpoint. These companies should finally recognize that they have cultural responsibilities to the global population, not just to the cities where they are based.

Do you think this also links back to the problem that all these big brands have been kept alive for so long and start to lose their original power so drastically with all the changes in creative directors?

Yes, it is a very strange strategy, even from a commercial viewpoint. It’s clear that no one will ever possess the force and genius to create like Alexander McQueen. It would have been far better to take that money and invest it in some young designers rather than trying to produce a cult around a deceased person, which is purely necrophilia. It’s not just about countries; it’s also a major mistake from an economic perspective. Some of our past great designers were so significant—they contributed immensely to the globalization of fashion and initially had very strong successors, like Galliano, for example. But then, at a certain point, they became extremely reactionary. They are genuinely trying to kill fashion at the moment.

Do you feel we are all just lost?

We’re completely lost, and the system will likely break down. You can welcome a designer but don’t expect them to dream the dreams of someone else. There are many new designers from China who do not encounter these cumbersome problems and focus more on genuinely innovative design. Those groups should operate more like art galleries.

We thought the reset would come after the pandemic…but nothing changed. What needs to happen for it to finally arrive?

Well, they could do that very quickly if they wanted.

Do you believe that artificial intelligence can contribute to a liberation?

Yes, but artificial intelligence is not an automatic instrument. When everyone uses artificial intelligence, the results become homogenized. It is a tool that cannot replace creativity, invention, and imagination. It allows us to go faster and create more, but we will always need people behind those instruments—in the same way that computers did not eliminate the need for someone to operate them to choose, decide what to do, or design what to wear. This is something special to fashion; we truly need to like the pieces we wear. One must, in any case, reinvent styles and reclaim one’s own freedom.

You mentioned the lack of discourse in fashion. Are you planning to have more panel talks or workshops to promote these conversations, especially among the younger generation and the new industry?

I would actually like to enter the industry to change the landscape a bit. It’s not easy, but there is significant resistance to culture in general. I’m working with the Fondation Cartier in Paris, trying to develop spaces where fashion can be discussed. It’s absurd that there’s no venue in either Paris or New York where fashion could be debated.

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AN ODE TO THE 90’S IN BERLIN: GERRIT JACOB X MUBI https://www.numeroberlin.de/2024/11/an-ode-to-the-90s-in-berlin-gerrit-jacob-x-mubi/ Fri, 08 Nov 2024 11:07:02 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=54572 Dream On – Berlin, the ´90s

An homage to Berlin´s rebirth after the fall of the wall – this is what Berlin-based fashion designer and illustrator Gerrit Jacob highlights with his latest limited-edition capsule collection. Comprising five pieces, the collection is inspired by MUBI´s film series Reclaiming Spaces: Berlin, the ´90s. The collection includes two bags, a denim jacket, jeans, and a t-shirt, all reflecting Berlin´s underground scene that dominated the era, while embracing a freedom-driven vision. Graffiti-covered toilet stalls, artwork, and graphic rave flyers plastered across the city walls – fashion and self-expression went hand in hand during this period and are key driving forces behind the collection pieces.

Love, freedom, rebellion – photographer Marina Mónaco and art director Biana Batson explore these essential themes in the campaign that accompanies the collection, capturing the essence of life in Berlin. The documentary-style approach highlights the rawness of the ever-evolving capital while showcasing the collection. The pieces become a part of the city´s culture, drawing from MUBI´s film series by reclaiming generational spaces of the ´90s.

To celebrate designer Gerrit Jacob and his collection, a launch event will take place on November 16. The exhibition space C/O Berlin partners with MUBI, and in collaboration with 032c, the significant of 1990s Berlin will be further explored, analyzing the intersection of fashion, film, and culture.

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SKEMER TOURS EUROPE – IN CONVERSATION WITH KIM PEERS https://www.numeroberlin.de/2024/10/skemer-tours-europe-in-conversation-with-kim-peers/ Thu, 31 Oct 2024 11:04:58 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=54047

Kim Peers is what we call a true creative. Born and raised in Antwerp, the fashion capital, she made a breakthrough in high fashion, becoming the face of brands like Prada and YSL and a favorite of photographer Steven Meisel. But Kim Peers has always been more than just a model. With a passion for music, she released her solo EP “Tell Me More” on DJ Hell’s International Gigolos Records in 2004. After exploring various creative paths, she started the duo Skemer in 2019 with her partner Mathieu Vandekerckhove, guitarist and founding member of the post-metal band Amenra. Two very different worlds collide and lead to minimalist dark wave deconstructions that are equal parts brutal and erotic. The name Skemer reflects this duality, meaning both “intriguer” in English and “dusk” in Mathieu’s native West Flemish.

Now there’s a chance to see Skemer live as the duo tours through Europe. We spoke with Kim Peers ahead of the shows about her journey in fashion and music, true authenticity, and the art of discovering who you really are.

Ann-Kathrin Riedl: You’re about to start your tour throughout Europe – what are you looking forward to the most and in what way do you think this experience will maybe differ from earlier tours you’ve done?

Kim Peers: I’m most excited about bringing Skemer to life on stage – preparing backstage, creating new looks that capture our world, and crafting moods and stories to share with the audience. I want each performance to resonate deeply. This tour, our longest yet, spans three weeks and marks our second collaboration with our booking agency, Swamp. It’s also our first partnership with the French booking agency Personata Grata.

Nightlife and the world of clubs play an important role for you. Can you describe what exactly fascinates you about it?

I’ve met many of my closest friends in clubs. It’s where I connect with like-minded people, and we come together to dress up and dance. Most of them feel like family to me.

What role does Berlin play in this? Do you have a special connection with the city?

I feel very much at home in Berlin and feel like I fit in there even more than in Belgium. A few years ago, I considered moving there, but meeting Mathieu, my partner, kept me in my home country. Now, I just enjoy visiting from time to time.

Despite your love for nightlife, you’ve chosen to live a lifestyle without alcohol, drugs, and cigarettes. I believe many people might not expect that. Does it often happen that your strong presence leads people to make assumptions about you that aren’t true?

A long time ago, I used to drink, smoke, and occasionally do drugs, but eventually, it just got boring. I have so much more fun being sober now. The only time people might assume I’m not sober is when I’m dancing non-stop – and I’m not shy about dancing right up on stage next to the DJ! I’m actually not very aware of my strong presence.

From a young age, I had a strong sense of who I was, which sometimes made it hard to fit in. I grew accustomed to being quite solitary, but over time, I learned to embrace this part of myself.
You’ve been making music for a long time in different band constellations. How would you describe your vision in this regard, and where does your inspiration come from?

Making music began as a creative outlet that I really needed – it brought me comfort and a sense of safety. That’s why, at first, I mostly made music just for myself. Now, I feel more at ease, and while music remains very important to me, it has become more of a creative playground, with a bit more ambition and vision.

My inspiration comes from my inner library and moodboards. I observe everything around me – it just has to resonate, and I’ll absorb it somehow, eventually using it as inspiration. When I’m writing lyrics or performing on stage, I draw directly from this source.

Tell me about the beginnings of Skemer. The band consists of you and your partner Mathieu. Shortly after meeting for the first time, you began recording together. What attracts you to each other artistically?

Working with Mathieu is going very well, we each bring our own strengths, skills, and experiences. When I create, I draw from a vivid, visual source of inspiration, while Mathieu works from a kind of blank slate or void. Of course, he’s also inspired by external things, but I tend to be more complex in my process. This difference sometimes makes it challenging to understand each other, but it mostly leads to a balanced, complementary dynamic.

How have you evolved compared to your first album?

When our first album came out, Skemer was still fairly new. There was already an identity, but with the second album, that identity grew, evolved, and became clearer. Inspired by De Brassers, I wrote two tracks with lyrics in Dutch, my native language.

I appreciate seeing the truth, even when it’s dark, as it offers a more honest perspective. I’ve experienced a lot of darkness in my life, but I’ve chosen to move forward, transform it, and carry it with me.
The lyrics of your songs are dark, abyssal, and erotic. Why do you find these themes inspiring?

I appreciate seeing the truth, even when it’s dark, as it offers a more honest perspective. I’ve experienced a lot of darkness in my life, but I’ve chosen to move forward, transform it, and carry it with me. I’m not afraid of darkness or of taking a difficult, confrontational path. In fact, there’s a certain peace that comes from accepting that and even finding beauty in it. Eroticism can evoke a sense of power and freedom. While some may view it as purely erotic, for me, it’s about the freedom to be who you truly want to be.

What is your favorite line from a Skemer song, and why?

Geen mededogen.

Geen ontkomen.

Overgave die me niet loslaat.

Translated:

No compassion, No escape,

Surrender that won’t let me go.

It’s a powerful realization that the only thing a person can truly control is their own surrender.

How has your background in fashion influenced the visual aesthetics of the band?

I’ve been involved in fashion for most of my life, literally growing up alongside many people from the fashion world. As a result, it has had a huge influence on me. One of my biggest inspirations is Inge Grognard’s approach to makeup, along with the work of other talented makeup artists. I’m fortunate to have many friends in the fashion industry who are also designers, such as Sehnsucht Atelier, Judassime, and Wouters & Hendrix. I love incorporating their creations into the world of Skemer.

Could you be in a relationship with someone with whom you don’t share the same aesthetic and passion?

Actually, no. A strong interest in music is essential for me – not just passion, but also a vision that aligns with decisiveness and a grounded mindset. Aesthetic is crucial for my peace of mind, especially in my home. As I write this, I realize just how lucky I am to have Mathieu in my life! Haha.

From Antwerp, you started your career in the international fashion scene. Today, you’re considered an industry legend, as you’ve been successful in the fashion business for decades. What was the industry like when you started, and how has it changed since then?

When I started in fashion, I didn’t feel a strong connection to it, except with the Belgian designers and Alexander McQueen. I still have pieces in my archive from Jurgi Persoons, A.F. Vandevorst, Haider Ackermann, Veronique Branquinho, and others. There are so many exciting designers and brands now. I really love what Stefano Gallici is creating at Ann Demeulemeester and am a big fan of Glenn Martens at Diesel. They bring a fresh perspective to these established brands.

The makeup products were heavy, often caked with thick facial powder. Now, the focus has shifted to skincare, with much lighter products. Photoshoots were done on film, with just a few Polaroids to check the lighting. I’ve kept a collection of those Polaroids because, at times, I loved their vibe even more than the published shots.

I’m also pleased to witness more diversity among models, though I believe there’s still work to be done, as the size range remains too limited.

You’ve always been one of the models booked not just as a blank canvas, but as a personality. How did this perhaps make your career more challenging or easier at times?

Instead of trying to follow trends too closely, it’s more important to stay on your own path and focus on a long-term vision. A strong personality stands out more than ever. Nowadays, images pass by so quickly that having a distinctive personality or image is crucial. My agencies ( Noah Mgmt, Elite NY and A-Mgmt) respect my personalty and even see it as an asset.

Looking at the projects and the people you’ve worked with over time, it seems that everything has always aligned with your own aesthetic. How do you manage to maintain such a consistent line?

Before social media, my booking agent primarily managed my portfolio. I was fortunate to be booked for interesting projects most of the time, but I occasionally grew tired of the one-dimensional images that people created for me – mostly androgynous or rock ‘n’ roll styles. Since the rise of social media, I’ve taken control of my image and what I choose to share with the world, as well as the type of people I want to connect with. It’s a wonderful experience to engage with others all over the globe. I’m also very selective about the projects I choose to engage in. I say no to anything that strays too far from what I want to represent.

Instead of trying to follow trends too closely, it’s more important to stay on your own path and focus on a long-term vision. A strong personality stands out more than ever.
From your early days in fashion, you’ve also made music. How did both worlds influence each other? What have you taken from one world into the other?

In my early days, fashion and music were separate worlds for me. I didn’t want to compromise my music, as I created it mostly for myself. It was my own thing, and I struggled to connect the two. With Skemer, it’s the first time I’ve allowed both worlds to come together. Perhaps the timing was just right, and it felt natural. We create a lot of our videos ourselves, and I love approaching this process with my experience in fashion. The artwork, promotional materials, and merchandise serve as playgrounds where I can infuse that experience as well.

From modeling to music, are there any key moments – whether during concerts, photoshoots, or runway shows – that have had a lasting impact on your personal growth or influenced the way you view the world?

I must admit I have many of these moments. Every experience, big or small, helps me evolve and grow. One experience that stands out is when I performed together with Delfine Bafort in a theater piece called “Truth or Dare, Britney or Goofy, Nacht und Nebel, Jesus Christ or Superstar” by Lies Pauwels. The improvisation involved in the initial process was truly eye-opening for me, and bringing the piece to the stage is an experience I will always cherish. It significantly inspired my performances with Skemer.

Additionally, my experience with modeling for fashion shoots has been interesting to incorporate into my performances. There’s a unique awareness of how to move your body that comes from that work. I also attended a performance by Christine and the Queens, now known as Rahim Redcar, which left a lasting impression on me. The way he expressed real emotions alone on stage in a theatrical setting was incredibly touching.

To follow your path, you must have a strong sense of who you are. How did you discover that, and what is one principle you’ve always stayed true to over the years?

From a young age, I had a strong sense of who I was, which sometimes made it hard to fit in. Even when I tried, it just never seemed to work. I grew accustomed to being quite solitary, but over time, I learned to embrace this part of myself. In recent years, I’ve found a close circle of friends who accept me as I am, where I truly feel I belong. It’s an amazing feeling.

To further develop a strong sense of self, I stay focused. It’s not just about ideas in my head, images online, or discussions about concepts, it’s about taking action and creating tangible things. This process requires time, energy, and effort, and it’s largely independent. I don’t wait for others, I simply start doing it. The more I engage in these activities, the more they become real and something I can work with.

It’s important for me to care for myself, but also to care for others. I strive to be mindful of how I balance my time and energy, continually assessing my priorities – what and who truly matter to me.

You’ve grown in these worlds, experiencing them in different cycles of your life. Can you divide this journey into stages of development, and if so, where are you currently in that journey?

That’s a difficult question for me because I rarely look back, I just keep moving forward. I do have to admit that sometimes, aspects of my past feel like they belong to another life or another version of myself.

Similarly, I don’t look too far ahead. I prefer to remain open to possibilities and changes. Right now, I’m focused on enjoying the moment and the journey, wherever it may take me.

For more information on the tour, click here
Mathieu Vandekerckhove
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IN CONVERSATION WITH TJIOE MEYER HECKEN AND LORETTA WÜRTENBERGER https://www.numeroberlin.de/2024/10/in-conversation-with-tjioe-meyer-hecken-and-loretta-wurtenberger/ Tue, 08 Oct 2024 13:00:25 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=52129 It is frequently lamented by politicians and the public that rural areas lack balanced cultural offerings – the competition with major cities seems too one-sided. Yet, just outside Berlin, there are two places that harmonize art, nature, discourse, and events: Schlossgut Schwante and Wehrmuehle.

Internationally renowned contemporary artists are showcased at both locations: Norbert Bisky, Tony Cragg, Alicja Kwade, Paul McCarthy, Nan Goldin, Lee Ufan, Kiki Smith, Michael Sailstorfer, George Rickey, Jorinde Voigt – the list could go on and on. What opportunities arise from nature-oriented cultural practice, and what challenges must be overcome?
A conversation with the two directors, Dr. Loretta Würtenberger and Tjioe Meyer Hecken.

Marcus Boxler: Both of you have ties to Berlin and London and now manage prominent cultural venues in rural Brandenburg. Have you ever spoken directly?

Tjioe Meyer Hecken: So far, we’ve mostly exchanged flyers and materials 😉

 

Loretta Würtenberger: I’m glad we’re finally speaking directly. Building something like you and I are doing – essentially from our own means and resources, while presenting a demanding and recognised programme – is something where you really appreciate having allies.

Both venues are private initiatives. In the institutional landscape, such “lighthouse projects” are sought after. Why aren’t they publicly funded?

Loretta: I’m disheartened by the lack of political attention, which is so contrary to the attention and support we receive from people from all over Northern Germany and especially our neighbors from Schwante and other nearby communities. We’ve invited the Ministry of Culture over and over again, we informed them about all our activities. International publications such as The Guardian and the FT have written about us, yet, in Potsdam, we are ignored. It’s quite astonishing given our regional impact, attracting thousands of visitors each year.

 

Tjioe: I entirely agree, we bring internationally renowned artists with impactful messages to northern Brandenburg, yet receive no support and have even faced attacks on our art.

Institutional exhibitions face similar issues. Most recently, Anne Imhof’s “Wish You Were Gay” billboards in Bregenz were destroyed twice, showing strong reactions to art everywhere.

Tjioe: We are not discouraged by this; iconoclasts exist everywhere. We remain unrestrainedly positive. We want Brandenburgers to be involved in the region. We work with schools, with children, with the new generation. And it can be said: We are open to everyone. We are here in the north of Brandenburg and embrace mondialité as a posture of worldliness to unite people and cultures.

How would you each describe the work you do?

Loretta: We aim to create a place in which nature and culture come together on equal terms, while keeping the park open and inviting. In the center of our activities is the 20 hectare Schlossgut Schwante sculpture park with its wide range of international artists. With our program of accompanying events, such as music, yoga, meditation, family workshops, we invite not only visitors who are interested in contemporary art but also those who want to simply enjoy such activities, bringing openhearted people together.

 

Tjioe: We have a lot in common but position Wehrmuehle as a museum and a community-driven, artist-centred institution. We focus on artist residencies and community involvement. Whether we have a rave in the forest by Julian Rosefeldt, which is actually part of an art production for the Opera Antwerp, or conduct a children workshop with Maryam Keyhani: it always comes back to the artist and the art. Plus: What can the community contribute? How do people want to get involved, and how can we expand and utilize our platform for this?

How present is Berlin in your work?

Tjioe: We’re very Berlin-affine, with many visitors from the city seeking weekend escapes. We offer a cultural space for people to explore contemporary art, and experience it in an interdisciplinary way. The museum fosters a connection between art and nature. 

 

Loretta: What defines us both is definitely that people usually travel a distance that is not necessarily different in time from a trip from Wedding to Kreuzberg, but it is an active decision to linger there. More active than within the city, where you’re used to the distances. You don’t drive three-quarters of an hour outside Berlin only to rush through in seven minutes. This benefits the perception of the exhibited art greatly.

You both have international orientations and residency programmes. What are the main differences?

Tjioe: We host three shows a year and more. We have been curating projects internationally and have had the pleasure of running an Offsite in Berlin for two years. Here, we host performance art (Göksu Kunak, Young Boy Dancing Group), experimental dance (Ylva Falk, Amanda Donato, Soraya Schulthess), and music (Labour Studio and Kaan Bulak). In recent years, we’ve found that an accompanying programme – even related to the city – really draws people out, and we’ve unintentionally specialized in that.

Although Schossgut Schwante also hosts artists in residence, such as the author Viktor Jerofejew at the moment, and has artists such as Jorinde Voigt and Christian Jankowski give tours in the sculpture park, I have a feeling you emphasize more on well-being factors with yoga, meditation, and other body-conscious practices. Is that right?

Loretta: This stems from my own belief that experiences such as body-conscious breathing and yoga within art integrate into the spiritual space provided by nature and art, and this combination  makes visitors more receptive to their surroundings.

Would you say it’s a coincidence or is femininity necessary to create such a place?

Tjioe: It is always refreshing to see women in the forefront of the male-dominated art world. Whether on the art market, at fairs, in museums, or galleries. At the same time, I believe that places like ours need a host . It’s not a feminine characteristic, but I think Loretta has it, and I think I do as well. Perhaps that is a coincidence.

 

Loretta: I want to separate the question from gender and add what I believe is necessary: our activities require a strong intrinsic motivation and sensitivity to the spirit of the place we are entrusted with. A sensitivity to ensure that art does not compete with its surroundings. That art is not aggressively set against nature, but that both are seen as emerging from the same creative force. Lastly, you need to be able to think and act ong term since places as such we manage  are not established in two or three years. But rather need a vision which goes far beyond, to grow into its environment.

Is there a societal gap between city and countryside in art and environment perception?

Loretta: Definitely, but I would view the gap as leaning towards Berlin, not Brandenburg. I first came to Berlin in the early 1990s. The city was an absolute wasteland – in the best sense of the word! Where everything could develop, where everything could happen, where there was no financial pressure, where gentrification debates did not exist, where people from diverse backgrounds could meet. Looking at today, I’m discouraged by the development in the last 10 years. There are unbearable financial aspects, but also questions of self-constitution: Who am I in Berlin? Where do I locate myself in Berlin? Personally, I feel much freer in the countryside of Brandenburg, where I have found many of the positive aspects I so much enjoyed in Berlin many years ago, now outside Berlin.

What’s the reason?

Loretta: Things are less heated, less contextualized, because the urge to conceptualize is less. Many of our artist friends find inspiration in the nature around Berlin. Not only are the residency artists with us, but also artists who come “unofficially” and realize individual projects here. They all take a deep breath when they arrive. We are grateful that the metropolis of Berlin is within reach. I frequently go to Berlin. I am grateful for the Philharmonie, the Komische Oper, Tanz im August. But I no longer want to live there. I feel that I can breathe, think, and be creative much more freely here. A bit like Berlin in the 1990s.

 

Tjioe: In the end, I am still a city person. (laughs) Although I have spent a considerable amount of time in nature and traveled extensively for research due to my degree in behavioral ecology. Perhaps, we are just a bit closer to Berlin, gradually bringing Berliners closer to the enthusiasm for the surrounding nature. Showing them a bit of deceleration.

 

Loretta: Due to our location facing near to the Hamburg autobahn, our focus is on all of Northern Germany, integrating visitors from places such as Hamburg or Hannover. Some even come from far abroad, quite a lot of visitors from the United States, often coming in patron groups of American museums or other renowned institutions.  

 

Tjioe: We remain open to new ideas and perspectives. This exchange has been vital to our growth and development. Wehrmuehle is the center of our activities, and it has become customary to refer to Berlin as our Offsite. When we say, ‘We are going to the city,’ we acknowledge that Berlin is, indeed, our Offsite in Brandenburg.

In winter, there are no exhibitions at Schwante, and the Art Biesenthal hosted by Wehrmuehle is your summer exhibition. Hence the question: Must we simply accept that one has to endure the winter in Brandenburg depressively?

Tjioe: We celebrated our season finale during Art Week Berlin in partnership with ArtReview, showcasing renowned DJ/producer Nina Kraviz. As we transition into winter, we’re maintaining a more intimate profile with exclusive dinner events and invite-only art happenings. Our residency program continues year-round, and we are actively planning international collaborations and Offsite programmes to keep our community engaged.

 

Loretta: Our situation is different from yours, because we don’t have an indoor public space. And I must confess, I also need that winter break. For me, it’s not a desirable goal. I feel connected with the cycles of nature and have no problem retreating and reflecting in winter, and then starting preparations again in the spring. When the blossoms come, we too blossom again.

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THE EVOLUTION OF STYLE: JULIAN DAYNOV ON HIS FASHION JOURNEY AND THE BIRTH OF ‘NEUDEUTSCH’ https://www.numeroberlin.de/2024/09/the-evolution-of-style-julian-daynov-on-his-fashion-journey-and-the-birth-of-neudeutsch/ Wed, 25 Sep 2024 10:20:49 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=50642 Trend scout and Creative Director Julian Daynov is one of the most influential voices in the German fashion industry, playing an essential role in elevating German fashion onto the global stage. Through his exhibition format ‘NEUDEUTSCH’, he showcases both designer labels and furniture brands at fashion weeks beyond Germany’s borders. After a successful debut at Pitti Uomo in Florence, he recently provided a platform for a diverse range of design talents at CIFF during Copenhagen Fashion Week. In this interview, he discusses his work as a curator, his vision as a creative director, and his mission as a trend scout.

Numéro Berlin: Today, you are an internationally renowned fashion expert. Back in the days, what inspired you to pursue a career in fashion, and was it always clear to you that you wanted to work in this field?

Julian Daynov: I believe the interest and affection towards aesthetics have always been part of me even in my childhood. Growing up surrounded by a diverse tapestry of cultural influence and heritage, innovation and tradition, Eastern and Western European and wildly American visual codes probably unlocked an immersive and eclectic personal taste. Probably like pretty much every kid obsessed with fashion, I had my first touch points with it through junior editorial and styling jobs in magazines, followed by first jobs in retail, buying, fashion direction and now an own consulting bureau specializing on brand building and communication strategy for lifestyle brands – I guess it has never been only clothing I was fascinated by – i felt an affinity towards pop culture and modern-day lifestyle as a whole and the “halo” around it: the way it is staged, the way it is promoted, the way it is sold and made desirable, the hype-building habits.

I definitely would not trade my path as it gave me a very broad spectrum and overview throughout the entire scope of the industry – sourcing, editorial work, styling, buying, merchandising, designing, promoting: all incremental part for what I do now.


What were your initial motivations for creating ‘NEUDEUTSCH‘?

An indivisible part of my job as Portfolio Consultant and Buyer throughout the years has always been dedicated to finding and showcasing new brands and designs, new aesthetics and creations. 

Very often, I’ve been confronted with this particular distrust towards fashion or object design in general coming from Germany. On so many of my scouting and sourcing trips here, though, I’ve been meeting numerous incredibly gifted and talented designers from various fields of work and felt they needed to be shown, they needed a much bigger stage than their home market. I guess this was the initial impulse for me to come up with the idea to curate a special project presenting new-wave German design at trade show platforms, where the entire community of influential industry pioneers, decision makers, business leads and multipliers gather: international fashion weeks and fairs, which not only generate exposure and visibility, but also business touch points and retail placement capabilities. 
“There is so much going on and I guess it never got the attention it deserves – we have to all train ourselves to break up with the cliché on German design being strictly functional and rather unagitated and channel more our personal “discovery” mode.”

What does ‘NEUDEUTSCH’ represent, and what criteria do you use to curate the artists, designers, and brands involved?

As this is my own take on the spheres of modern design and current lifestyle objects, I am obviously led by my personal aesthetic appreciation, but coming from a solid retail business background, I always believed (and still do, by the way), that commercial success is a key driver and growth factor for any designer, artist or brand. I am very much inspired by the dreamy and poetic essence or artistic extravaganza of so many fashion designers, but also know that without carrying out a certain “wearability” and “wider public desirability” and “justified affordability” aspect their triumph, growth and eventually even overall existence are strongly in danger.

This is why I tend to throw a “filter” within my curation process for NEUDEUTSCH and encourage the creativity and greatness of modern German design I believe could make it within a commercial context and retail scenery of concept shops, department stores, etc. I personally select every single designer / brand after keeping track of their work and creations for over some seasons and analyzing their development not only throughout their design signature, but also in their business growth mode.

 

What common themes unite the projects showcased by NEUDEUTSCH, and what differentiates them from each other?

How did the collaboration between NEUDEUTSCH and CIFF come about, and what differences do you see between your initial curation for Pitti Uomo and your current one for CIFF?

A lot it gravitating around the idea of creating visionary work – be it in apparel, in interior, object design or beauty – and the idea of the makers to kick off an entire movement with their work. I love including brands and designers with an attitude, with a strong visual signature and particular distinctive style. What differentiates the curation series in Florence and Copenhagen is the profile of the curation – i slightly adjusted the selection and adapt it to the business and visitor profile of the trade show. For example, the brands I exhibited at Pitti Uomo were very menswear-driven as this is the nature of the platform: buyers, press, visitors going to Florence were more keen on discovering a Menswear driven selection; for Copenhagen and the CIFF i opened up the profile a bit wider and made sure to include more interior / object design brands / beauty players as the trade show develops onwards and showcases more of these categories and attracts additional buying population of visitors from these areas. If the next show will be held a pure interior design forum, my curation will respectively be replicating this aspect.


How has working on this project influenced your personal view of fashion and culture?

I’ve always been more fascinated by “underdog” culture and “enabling” spirit in any dimension – i love discovering brands, objects, persons not many others know of and find it joyful to channel their creations be it though my looks, within my network or in my job. I think through NEUDEUTSCH it now is heavily reflected in my personal closet, in my homes, in my beauty routine. I am experimenting more, I am trying out more and this is the greatest part of it – i can only invite everyone to do so: it makes us all stand out and supportive towards ideas and visions of independent creatives and not necessairly huge corporates.


Is it important to separate personal taste from general potential when making selections?

There is two dimensions in this: the purely business one and the predominantly aesthetic one.

About the business one, I had to learn the hard way in my years as Buyer and Fashion Director. Keeping a “commercial” line present in a portfolio of a store is essential to the business. Of course you have to keep things “aspirational” and “innovative”, but let’s be frank – the business volumes ensuring success are rather the “moderate” ones; in the end, those are the brand-clients, who “pay” for the presence of the “cool kids”. So, sometimes I would find myself in a showroom of a brand I would never even think of wearing or whose products don’t particularly mirror my taste, but hey, those are in the end some of the best-sellers for the mass-consumer market, which keeps the boat floating and the business liquid.

Within NEUDEUTSCH this rule applies probably less noticeable, but definitely is a criteria i follow – i want the brands i curate and exhibit to start off in a business context and generate not only exposure, but revenue and growth. Still, though, they are all very unconventional and visionary, new and bold, exciting and daring but all in-line with a factor for commercial success which can be scaled up.


How was the feedback from your appearance at Pitti Uomo?

Frankly, I could not have dreamed of a better and more vibrant premiere of the project than at Pitti Uomo in Florence this January – I have been working with the leadership and brand curation team of Pitti for years in my retail times and they were always eager to do a special project together, so this is how NEUDEUTSCH actually kicked off as a traveling curation format, showcasing works by aspiring creatives from various areas of design, arts and crafts. The initiative has been entirely funded by Fondazione Pitti and is in fact a pure good-will-venture, which gives a platform and business networking opportunity for young brands complementary and tries to catapult them into the prime league of retail business and fashion industry context.

It was right at the Pitti Uomo where the journey for NEUDEUTSCH actually took off – I got involved into conversations with the CIFF and other major platforms, who were showed interest for the showcase and expressed their wish to host an issue. Excited to see where it’s going to be taking us next – me and mostly German design aesthetes whose work I keep on discovering and find fascinating.

 
Despite many aspects of the German fashion market not receiving international recognition, what is your secret to successful collaborations with events like Pitti Uomo in Florence and Copenhagen Fashion Week?

Generating visibility, awareness and exposure at the right platforms and within a well-tailored network is essential to any business, to any cause, to any message. None of this would have been possible to do without the initial support of the Pitti Uomo and the CIFF picking up the idea and building it up on a larger scale. I think our local German consume culture and moreover the common attitude towards something “German”, towards something “new” are not very nurturing and instantly supportive; there is still a “note” and “flavor” or distrust when it comes to even local promotion or exposure – I don’t like that at all and wanted to “fight” it with the idea of NEUDEUTSCH. We can’t change that “German gene” overnight, but we can all make sure to give enough positive examples of new German design greatness, which deserves a chance and which convinces and satisfies not only via “function” but also via “design”.

In a way it is unfortunate than none of the German authorities have seen the potential of showcasing German design internationally through NEUDEUTSCH, but luckily innovative, daring, believing and welcoming organizations like Pitti Uomo and CIFF saw this opportunity and sensed this development in modern German visual and design culture and wanted to be the first to exhibit and celebrate it. The secret often is to be fast and take a chance – another lesson we need to learn as old-Germans.

 

Are there other fashion weeks or locations you would like to bring NEUDEUTSCH to?

I am thrilled to see that the attention and interest for NEUDEUTSCH is growing and am extremely proud that major international platforms from the US, from Paris, Milan, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Seoul have already expressed their enormously generous invitations to host the showcase and give stage and market entry opportunity for the designers I believe would be worth showcasing and introducing onto their media and business scene. I guess we’ll be traveling abroad very soon again but wish it would also take the courage of our local German authorities to support and enforce an initiative showcasing German talent and design culture internationally, as so far, it’s rather been more the ones as Pitti Uomo and CIFF who entirely fund our German creative exposure and advocate internationally for the actual attention towards German design.

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