Interview – Numéro Berlin https://www.numeroberlin.de Tue, 25 Nov 2025 17:38:13 +0000 en-US hourly 1 “VISION MEANS TRUSTING THE UNKNOWN”— A CONVERSATION WITH HANNAH HERZSPRUNGBY ANN-KATHRIN RIEDL https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/11/vision-means-trusting-the-unknown-a-conversation-with-hannah-herzsprungby-ann-kathrin-riedl/ Tue, 25 Nov 2025 17:24:43 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=66102
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There are actors who perform — and then there are those who transform. Hannah Herzsprung belongs to the latter. Known for her intensity, precision, and quiet strength, she approaches every role with the instinct of an artist and the discipline of a craftswoman. In conversation, Herzsprung reflects on what it means to think visionary: to look beyond the visible, to trust the unknown, and to seek authenticity in an industry that often rewards illusion. Here, she speaks about fear and freedom, creativity and control, and how vision — both personal and collective — continues to shape her path.

Ann-Kathrin Riedl: What does it mean to you personally to think visionary?

Hannah Herzsprung: To think visionary means looking beyond the present – having the courage to see things before they become visible. It’s deeply connected to trust: in yourself, but
also in the unknown. Being visionary means not waiting for certainty but stepping into uncertainty and creating something new there.

AR: What is your personal vision as an actress, and how has it evolved over the years?

HH: In the beginning, I wanted to tell stories,
to touch people and evoke emotion. Today, it’s more about finding
truth – not only in the character, but also in how a film is made. I
want to be part of projects that take risks, that search for depth rather than effects. My vision was perhaps more romantic in the past; now it’s more conscious and focused.

AR: Throughout your career, you’ve worked with many creative people — who has impressed you most with their vision, and why?

HH: I’ve been lucky to work with directors
who have a very clear, sometimes uncompromising vision – Chris Kraus, for example, who combines incredible precision with poetic
openness. Or Lena Stahl, who works with a rare combination of
intuition, humanity, and exactness. I admire people who dare to stay
true to their vision, even when it becomes uncomfortable.

AR: What distinguishes a film that simply entertains from one that carries a greater vision?

HH: A film with vision wants to move something — not just entertain. You can often feel it when reading the script, in the attitude between the lines. And sometimes you only
realize it on set, when everyone suddenly burns for something bigger than their own ego.

AR: How do you balance your own vision with that of the director? At what point do you adapt — and at what point do you step away?

HH: For me, acting is collaboration. I try to
understand the director’s vision and fill it with my own truth. It’s like a dance —leading and being led. When something feels off, I try to resolve it through dialogue. The point where I can no longer follow is much clearer to me now than it used to be. Boundaries are necessary to remain authentic.

AR: Genius and madness often go hand in hand — how do you experience that tension?

HH: Creativity often arises where control is
released. Madness, in the artistic sense, isn’t purely destructive — it’s an opening, a connection to something primal. The important thing is to know your way back. Genius without grounding easily gets lost.

AR: What do you see as the greatest obstacles — or, conversely, the most fertile ground — for true creativity?

HH: Freedom, trust, and silence. I need
moments without pressure or judgment. The greatest obstacle is fear — of failure, of expectations. When you let go of fear, something real can emerge.

AR: Was there ever an inner resistance you had to overcome to reach the core of your creativity?

HH: Yes, again and again. I tend to want to
control everything. But in acting, control has no place. I had to learn
to let go — and that remains an ongoing process. Creativity is born from surrender, not control.

AR: How has society’s general willingness to take creative risks changed, in your eyes?

HH: I feel that our time is obsessed with speed
and efficiency. But visions need patience, courage, and the will to
endure dry spells. Many shy away from risk — maybe because we’ve forgotten how to accept uncertainty as part of the journey.

AR: Do you share that perspective — and what might be the reason behind it?

HH: I think true vision still exists, just often
not where we expect it. Many work quietly, away from the spotlight. Perhaps we need more spaces where genuine vision can be heard, not just marketed.

AR: To please the audience or to challenge them — where do you see the bigger responsibility for artists?

HH: To challenge, definitely. Art should not comfort; it should provoke thought. It should ask questions, not provide answers.

AR: What is your vision for the film industry’s contribution to society?

HH: Film can create empathy. When we see
stories that connect us to other perspectives, it changes our way of
thinking. In times of polarization, that’s more important than ever.

AR: Eight years after the Harvey Weinstein scandal shook the industry — what has changed?

HH: A lot, especially in awareness. But structures evolve more slowly than attitudes. It still takes courage to
name injustices — and solidarity to make hose changes last.

AR: Does this collective vision still carry power, or what would it take to reignite it?

HH: True listening. And more spaces where
women are not just visible but actively shaping — on every level of film production.

AR: Which aspect of the Chanel vision speaks to you most?

HH: Chanel stands for strength through
elegance. For independence and timelessness. I find that inspiring — a vision that doesn’t define femininity, but celebrates it.

AR: What do you think makes the house’s vision so strong?

HH: Because it goes beyond fashion. It’s an
attitude — a way of life.

AR: You once said that we should know almost nothing about a good actress — to preserve the mystique. Why?

HH: I like it when the character takes the
spotlight, not the person behind her. Mystery is precious — especially in a time when everything is shared. I keep it alive so my characters can
live truthfully.

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I FEEL THAT OUR TIME IS OBSESSED WITH SPEED AND EFFICIENCY. BUT VISIONS NEED PATIENCE, COURAGE, AND THE WILL TO ENDURE DRY SPELLS.
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I WANT TO BE PART OF PROJECTS THAT TAKE RISKS, THAT SEARCH FOR DEPTH RATHER THAN EFFECTS. MY VISION WAS PERHAPS MORE ROMANTIC IN THE PAST; NOW IT’S MORE CONSCIOUS AND FOCUSED.
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TO THINK VISIONARY MEANS LOOKING BEYOND THE PRESENT – HAVING THE COURAGE TO SEE THINGS BEFORE THEY BECOME VISIBLE. IT’S DEEPLY CONNECTED TO TRUST: IN YOURSELF, BUT ALSO IN THE UNKNOWN.
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Celebrating the launch of “Vanille Caviar”: In Conversation with bdk https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/11/celebrating-the-launch-of-vanille-caviar-in-conversation-with-bdk/ Tue, 25 Nov 2025 14:10:45 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=66092

Last month, for the launch of their new scent “Vanille Caviar”, Paris-based perfume house bdk and friends of the brand came together for a celebratory dinner in the Feuerle Collection in Berlin. Numéro Berlin sat down with Founder David Benedek to talk about the concept behind Vanilla Caviar and which new chapters might await bdk; in Berlin and beyond.

Numéro Berlin: Time for a conclusion: How do you feel about the initial reaction to the launch of Vanille Caviar?

David Benedek: It’s true that when it comes to fragrances, some are designed to appeal to a broad audience while others are more niche and therefore more disruptive. That’s exactly what’s happening with Vanille Caviar. Overall, the fragrance has been very well received, but we’ve also seen some more polarized reactions. Some clients absolutely love it and have become true fans, while others are more surprised by its interpretation of the vanilla bean, which is quite salty, dark, leathery, and not sweet at all. It’s a scent that can divide opinions, as many consumers tend to expect vanilla to be sweeter and more gourmand.

That said, we’re very happy with the result ! It brings a unique signature and complements the other creations in the Collection Matières beautifully.

Vanille Caviar is officially described as “an exploration of the mysterious power of black.” To what extent is a fragrance at BDK always tied to a visual concept or imagery?

At BDK Parfums, fragrance is always closely tied to a visual concept or imagery. Vanille Caviar, for example, is an exploration of the mysterious power of black, not as a shadow, but as a source of light, a concept Soulages calls outrenoir (Outrenoir [‘beyond black’] is not just black, but a medium through which light is reflected, transformed, and perceived” (Soulages, 1997)).

“Like a monochrome painting by Pierre Soulages, the perfume transforms a single raw material into radiance, revealing its depth, texture, and nuances”

Each creation at BDK Parfums stems from a dialogue between diverse artistic inspirations—painting, design, music—and a sensitivity inherited from arts. Every raw material has a color, every scent a texture, giving fragrance a pictorial, almost tactile dimension. For us, perfume is a world of encounters where art, creativity, and culture intertwine, constantly opening new perspectives.

How did you translate the character of Vanille Caviar into an aesthetic experience during the dinner?

To translate the character of Vanille Caviar into an aesthetic experience during the dinner, we wanted to create a space that reflected the depth, contrast, and unexpected elements of the fragrance. The venue itself, the Feuerle Collection, offered a perfect canvas with its raw, architectural spaces and the dialogue between ancient art and contemporary works.

We enhanced the artistic dimension by collaborating with Idan Gilony, an artist known for his innovative approach to light and material, whose work allowed us to bring a modern, immersive perspective to the experience. The dinner was designed not only as a tasting but as a multisensory journey. We included light installations and the Sound Room, creating an experience in darkness where light emerged through sound, complemented by rays of light from the exhibition that followed the experience.

On the table itself, we recreated elements of the fragrance in a very contemporary and urban way: vanilla pods and orchids were placed thoughtfully across the dining table, translating the raw and sophisticated notes of Vanille Caviar. Every detail — from the space to the lighting, the sound, and the materials — was intended to echo the perfume’s powerful, dark, and modern character, turning the dinner into a true artistic extension of the fragrance.

Why was it important for you to host a BDK dinner here in Berlin? And how did you decide on the Feuerle Collection as the location?

For me, it was important to host the dinner in Berlin because we have many German clients, a market that truly loves niche perfumery. I wanted this launch to be celebrated in a symbolic and meaningful place that really reflects our DNA. The Feuerle Collection is a space full of history, raw, architectural, and yet deeply artistic. In this museum, Asian art is presented within a brutalist environment (inside the bunker, they bring together ancient Chinese furniture and scholar’s objects, Southeast Asian Khmer sculpture, and bold contemporary artworks, all in dialogue with one another and the architecture.), and that’s very much what BDK Parfums is about: how, from an urban and raw setting, arts can emerge and inspire the creation of perfumes.

There was a strong artistic resonance between this place and our identity, and that’s what drew me to it. It felt like the perfect setting to express who we are and the story behind Vanille Caviar.

Apart from the Collection Matières, to which Vanille Caviar belongs, you also offer scents within the Collection Parisienne, inspired by Paris. If you were to create a fragrance based on Berlin, how would you translate your first impressions of the city into scent?

I think that’s quite a broad question. For me, the impression I had of Berlin in October would be very different from what I might feel in spring or summer. I would need to come back and spend more time to truly capture the essence of the city.

In general, when I’ve been inspired by places to create fragrances at BDK Parfums, it’s often locations I’ve visited multiple times and made my own. Berlin was only my second visit, and both times were very short stays. I would like to spend more time exploring the city.

What the city evokes for me is a certain brutality, vastness, and grandeur in space. If I were to imagine a fragrance inspired by Berlin, it would certainly be very powerful, with a wide sillage, using deep, noble, and mysterious ingredients with a touch of raw modernity. When I think of mysterious notes, it’s often woody, smoky, and leathery, with a slightly dark character that reflects Berlin’s lifestyle and cultural atmosphere.

2025 has been an exciting year for BDK. What have been your biggest takeaways so far? And are there any upcoming projects you’re particularly excited about?

For me, 2025 has been a year of rediscovery as a creator, allowing me to clarify and embrace the vision I want to develop over the next ten years. At BDK Parfums, I’ve finally found the right balance between the arts (sculpture, painting, literature, photography) and perfume as a real Parisian Creative Studio .

This year saw several very iconic launches, such as IMPADIA, with the opera dancer on the rooftops of Paris, his bouquet hiding his face. With Vanille Caviar, we created a launch in raw, striking spaces with art exhibitions, drawing inspiration from the black monochrome works of Soulages.

For me, 2025 has been a personal revelation in the aesthetic I want to bring to the House. It’s the message of this year, which will continue into a new collection launching in 2026 to celebrate BDK Parfums’ 10th anniversary. This collection will highlight a strong connection between olfactory raw materials and my personal history and passion for the world of fashion.

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WEEKEND MUSIC PT. 72: IN CONVERSATION WITH BARAN KOK https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/11/weekend-music-pt-72-in-conversation-with-baran-kok/ Fri, 21 Nov 2025 16:48:49 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65884
“If you don’t, someone else will”

We spoke with German rapper Baran Kok, who released his first track in 2024 and has already drawn lots of attention within the German rap scene. Inspired by artists like Kurdo and Haftbefehl, he set out to make a similar kind of rap – only that instead of rapping about women, he talks about men. In this interview, we talk about his background, his creative approach, and the reactions his music has provoked.

Numéro Berlin: So yeah, the Haftbefehl documentary is coming out today, did you hear about that?

Baran Kok: Yeah, of course.

 

NB: What kind of role did rap or German rap play for you back in the day? How did you get into it?

BK: A big one, for sure. I still remember when “So wie du bist” by MoTrip came out, that era really shaped me a lot. That was around 2015 or so. I remember my cousin showed it to me, and we would always argue about who’s better – Celo & Abdi or MoTrip – like, really dumb comparisons. They’re just super straight, you know? I basically grew up with that. But at some point, when I discovered female rap, mostly American female rap, not even German at first (I don’t think there was that much of it back then) that really took over. Especially Nicki Minaj, actually.

“And the thing with German rap was, that I often felt like I’m not welcome there”

So I kind of followed it from a distance, but I was like, whatever. And then at some point, I was just like, no, fuck you.

NB: When did you realize that you wanted to fill that gap – the lack of gay German rap?

BK: I always wanted to make music anyway, but it just wasn’t really possible you know with Kurdish family, immigrant family, and it was always like: you have to work, you have to become a doctor, a lawyer. My dad would always say, whenever he saw an artist: “Oh, that’s just an artist”. And I also had this image of artists like they live somewhere random, they’re dirty, they don’t shower, they don’t make money. That’s how I used to see it too, until I realized that you can actually make money from music. And I was always online, like since I was twelve. Always on social media. And that’s where I started seeing people post their stuff…

 

NB: …and gain reach.

BK: Exactly, you see so much more that way. And I was like, oh my God, maybe it’s not that stupid after all.

 

NB: And then you started performing as Baran Kok, and that’s your real last name too, right?

BK: Yes, that’s right, my name is actually Baran Kok. I did think for a while that maybe I should come up with another name, but then I thought, if your last name is Kok, you have to use it. It would be stupid not to. Then I moved to Berlin and I thought, you just have to do it. If you don’t, someone else will. Get your act together, make connections, find some random studio. I had always written down a lot of ideas, but I never had any links to studios, producers, anything, and making music is insanely expensive. But then I asked the rapper Souly, and he said, “Yeah, of course, I’ll help you.” And that’s how we made Traurige Hure.

 

NB: So far in German rap, it’s mostly been female rappers like Ikkimel or Nura who’ve rapped about being gay. Do you feel like there’s a development right now, that more queer rap is emerging in Germany?

BK: Yes, for sure, and that’s really good. 

 

“But I wouldn’t personally label what I do as queer rap, not because I’m not queer, but because for me it’s just rap”

I’m not really doing anything different from what the other guys do.

 

NB: You just talk about guys instead of girls.

BK: Exactly. And instead of fucking women, I fuck men. But apart from that, I’m doing the same thing they do. They go hard, I go hard. They fuck, I fuck. They have money, I have money.

 

NB: In AMG Kanake you reference Nike Kappe umgekehrt by Kurdo. Did Kurdo inspire or influence you in some way? Or why did you take those specific lyrics from that song and rework them in your own?

BK: For me, Kurdo was like the first well-known visibly Kanak rapper. Especially because his name is literally Kurdo. Of course, there were also people like Farid Bang and Haftbefehl, but when I was younger, I didn’t really understand who among them was Kurdish and who wasn’t. And a lot of the time at school, Turks and Kurds would always kind of tease or argue with each other. So I thought it was crazy that his name was Kurdo, and I’m sure he also gets hate for that. I just found it really powerful that he called himself that. That was one thing. But I also just really like his lyrics and his songs, especially tracks like Nike Kappe umgekehrt. And the way he always includes Kurdish words. He keeps it real, not too Germanized. It’s very Kanak, really Kanak-style.

I already had this idea that I wanted to make a song called AMG Kanake, because I think it describes something really well, like Traurige Hure. I like those kind of label-like names. That was also my first session with a friend of mine named Skoob102, he’s part of the rap crew 102 Boyz. We wrote the song together, and he was like, “Okay, what’s your theme today?” because I always need a theme when I write. And I said, “AMG Kanake.” Then we looked for some inspiration, and I was like, I need to get on this Kurdo vibe. I want to be as asozial as him, not even asozial in a bad way, just Kanak asozial – but I know how that comes across to Germans.

NB: Did Kurdo ever notice or reach out to you about it?

BK: No, I saw him before the song was released and didn’t introduce myself. I just said, hey, I need a picture with you, I love your music. But he found out now. He was on stream and talked about how I took a picture with him, and he said he was surprised that I looked so normal. But I get what he meant, you know, because in his culture it’s different. They don’t know better. They don’t have anyone like me in their circle, and maybe they need to change that, that’s on them too. But I understand where he’s coming from when he says that.

NB: You mean he expected you to show up with full makeup or something?

BK: Exactly, and for him that’s what visibly gay means. I still had a handbag, but I don’t think he saw it. I had put it down. I know my work.

NB: In your songs you often play with these kinds of terms, like you just mentioned with AMG Kanake, or in that one song where you say something like “I push him away, call me AfD.” Is that irony for you some kind of coping mechanism, a way to process things or give them an ironic twist?

BK: I don’t think it’s really a coping thing for me. I mean, I am a refugee kid, yeah, but it doesn’t come from that background. It’s just because it’s funny and it fits. And sometimes it just rhymes well. I think it’s also just this thing of in my head, if you hate me as a Kanak, then just fuck off, you know?

NB: I also wanted to ask about your “locally hated” tattoo. You often react to hate messages in your stories in a really playful way and turn them around. Is it really true that it doesn’t bother you at all, or is that partly just part of your media persona, like you don’t let it get to you publicly?

BK: No, it really doesn’t bother me. I don’t even get that much hate. There was a short phase when I did get a lot, about a year ago. A guy filmed me at a concert and posted it on TikTok, and all you could see was my “I Love Kok” T-shirt. No one knew what that was yet, and no one got it. The video got two million views and tons of hate, like six thousand comments or something. And then he posted another one because the first one did so well, and that got around 1.8 million views too. That was a real wave of hate, but even that didn’t bother me. What bothered me more was that it was offbeat on stage. I was thinking, everyone probably thinks I rap like that, but the sound technician had turned off the monitors, so I was hearing everything with a delay.

 

NB: Where does that strong self-confidence come from, that nothing really gets to you?
“I think when you’re a Kanak and you’re gay, you already get a lot of hate from home and from the environment you grow up in. So I really don’t care what some Jonas comments online”

I just imagine them sitting at home typing that stuff. Like back in that phase a year ago, there were people who even wrote out an entire prayer in the comments, and I was just like man, relax, who has time for that?

NB: So over time you just get a bit tougher?

BK: Yeah, you become hardened. And I also think when you’ve been closeted for a long time – I was closeted for a long time – you get to know yourself really well, you know? It’s not like I’ve only known I’m gay for two years or something. And I also think you can’t release the kind of music I make if you’re not confident. Same with Ikkimel. You just couldn’t do it otherwise. 

 

NB: We already touched on this briefly earlier, but basically you’re doing what all the other German rappers are doing, except that you’re not rapping about women, you’re rapping about men. Could you talk a bit more about why you think it provokes such strong reactions and pushes people’s buttons so much?

BK: I think it’s simply because people aren’t used to it. They’re not used to hearing gay men talk like that. But I think they always have, actually. It’s just that through social media, it’s reached a lot more people now. You’re just scrolling on your phone and a gay guy is talking about dick. You know what I mean? Especially because of the algorithm, videos get spread everywhere now. Everyone sees them. And before social media, if your environment wasn’t like that, you probably never came across it, or only rarely.

 

NB: And for a long time it wasn’t really present in mainstream rap either. So you think it’s not necessarily about homophobia, but more that people just haven’t been exposed to it yet?

BK: Of course not in every case but yes maybe in some cases There are a lot of people who message me saying, “I have nothing to do with that, but you’re dope.” And I’m like, okay, he just never had a reference point or comparison before. And there really aren’t many comparisons. I didn’t have one myself, except maybe Lil Nas X. But to me, Lil Nas X is already almost pop. You know, that raw, asozial Kurdo-Haftbefehl-style German rap, but gay – that didn’t exist for me. And when it did, it often came with some kind of educational message behind it, which is totally valid and important, especially for the community. I just don’t want to do it, and when I do it, I do it my way.

 

NB: So you’re not really trying to approach it with a specific intention or message?

BK: No. If it happens, fine, you know? It’s not like I’m saying I’m not gay or I’m not queer, that’s not my thing. I am all of that. But for me music is also just about having fun. It’s not going to solve homophobia. The fact that I’m on stage and performing is already enough of a political statement. I just want to hear a track, go off, and lose myself in it.

 

NB: In your songs you’re very explicit about hooking up, your sex life and all that. How much of that is based on reality and how much is fiction?

BK: No, most of it is real. Of course, everything is exaggerated a bit – it’s art – but a lot of it is true.

 

NB: Do you feel like the gay community is very sexualized? Or that there’s a kind of romanticization of unemotional sex? And if so, why do you think that is?

BK: I think it’s because it’s not that easy for gay teenagers to have normal sex, or to even find normal sex. Everyone at school has their first girlfriend at sixteen, or some even at fourteen. Then they have their first relationship, their first breakup, and there are topics like “he hooked up with my ex, that sucks.” That doesn’t really exist for gay people, unless you’re lucky enough to have come out at thirteen and your whole school is okay with it. How often does that happen? So you stay closeted for a long time. And at the end of the day, gay men are still men. That’s the thing. They behave like men. 

 

NB: But you think that’s kind of a reaction to not being able to live freely for so long?

BK: Yeah, I think it gets more intense because of that, and also through certain apps – we all know Grindr – it’s just become so normalized. But also because it’s only men, and nobody is really complaining.

 

NB: But you still have that song Traurige Hure – Sad Whore – and you even have it tattooed. Where does the “sad” part come from? Do you still sometimes struggle with that side of things?

BK: No, not really. I got into a relationship really quickly after moving to Berlin, that’s actually where the song comes from. But I also had this thing of wanting to live my life, you know, and so I ended it. And then we were in the studio, it was with Souly, and he was like, what’s the topic, and I said, I’m just sad. I was like I could totally be a whore right now because I’m single again, but I’m sad, I don’t get it. So I came up with “Sad Whore”. It just clicked.

 

NB: So you were basically just sad and not a whore yet, haha.

BK: Yeah, exactly, just sad, not a whore yet. I didn’t date for a long time, honestly like a year and a half. I wasn’t going on dates. I thought it was horrible, and I still do. I hate dating. I don’t mind meeting new people, I actually like that. But the effort behind it, I’m not gonna chase you, man. You know what I mean? Because we all know what dating in Berlin is like. It’s awful. I just don’t have the energy for it.

 

NB: And we’re already at the last question. In one of your songs you say, “Germany – they wish for Apache, I wish for an AMG Kanake.” You’re referring to what the audience wants from German rap, and with Apache you’re pointing to mainstream German rap, right?

BK: Yeah, what I mean is that for Germans, Apache is a “good immigrant.” That’s how I see it. I love him, though. It was never meant as a diss. I didn’t mention him because he’s taking over German rap or anything, but because Germans see him as one of the good ones. Otherwise, he wouldn’t be as big as he is.

 

NB: So, an immigrant, but still conforming.

BK: Exactly. His music isn’t explicit, he can make radio songs, he looks a bit exotic – that’s what they think. For me, he’s the symbol of that “one of the good ones” type. I’ve often heard comments like that in private, too. As an immigrant, you get used to being judged on whether you’re a good immigrant. And he’s the kind of person they can play on the radio. But I knew that’s not what I want.

NB: And what do you want then?

BK: An AMG Kanake.

 

NB: For yourself or for German rap in general?

BK: For myself.

 

NB: Thank you, Baran Kok!
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STRAIGHT TO THE HEART – GUERLAIN CELEBRATES A CENTURY OF LOVE https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/11/straight-to-the-heart-guerlain-celebrates-a-century-of-love/ Sat, 15 Nov 2025 18:49:15 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65715

What fits the so-called City of Love better than an exhibition about love?
An exhibition about love and scent.

This year, Maison Guerlain transforms its historic boutique on the Champs-Élysées into a three-floor sensory journey titled “Straight to the Heart” – a celebration of love in all its forms, curated for Art Basel Paris and on view until 16 November 2025. It is a show about desire, memory, heartbreak, touch, ecstasy, and all the invisible feelings that bind us to one another. But above all, it is a celebration of a legend: 100 years of Shalimar, Guerlain’s mythical fragrance.

Founded in 1828, Guerlain has always existed at the intersection of perfume and art. Louise Bourgeois wore Shalimar, her mother wore it, too. Photographs show her holding the bottle like an extension of her inner world. The brand’s bond with artists is generations deep and this exhibition places that history centre stage. More than thirty artists take part, spanning eras and continents: Pablo Picasso, Niki de Saint Phalle, David Hockney, Ren Hang, Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe, Marina Abramović, RongRong & inri, and many more. Together, they explore what love means today – its softness and violence, its mysticism and its intimacy, its ability to destroy, resurrect, provoke, soothe.

In the words of The Little Prince, “What is essential is invisible to the eye.” Guerlain takes the line literally. Several artists were invited to create their own scent of love, working with Guerlain’s in-house team of perfumers. The result is a fragrance journey woven through the exhibition: a landscape of emotions that ranges from sweet and tender to unsettling, erotic, melancholic.

All of it anchored by Shalimar, created in 1925 by Jacques Guerlain and inspired by the love story of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan, the emperor who built the Taj Mahal in memory of his late wife. Shalimar — “the abode of love” in Sanskrit — has survived a century without losing its mystery. In France, the perfume – just like the house of Guerlain itself – is akin to a national treasure, found in the bathroom of every French woman with a sense of elegance.

To mark its centenary, Guerlain releases Shalimar L’Essence, an intensified reinterpretation by Perfume Creative Director Delphine Jelk. While the 1925 original introduced perfumery’s first ambery accord, L’Essence concentrates its key elements: Jelk boosts the signature vanilla by pairing Jacques Guerlain’s historic ethylvanillin with a handcrafted Madagascar vanilla tincture, giving the scent a denser, more textured character. A crisp dose of bergamot sharpens the opening, leading into a floral core of rose absolute and iris, before settling into a deeper, slightly leathery amber. The flacon has been updated as well, with a new gold-toned Art Deco–inspired logo that connects Shalimar’s heritage with a more contemporary graphic identity.

With the launch of Shalimar L’Essence, Guerlain opens a new chapter in the fragrance’s legendary story. This reinvention does not seek to rewrite the past but to distill its very soul: an icon renewed through precision, intensity, and contemporary craftsmanship. L’Essence magnifies what has made Shalimar endure for a century — its sensual tension, its bold signature, its unmistakable trail — and reframes it for a new generation of perfume lovers. It is both a tribute and a transformation: a deeper, more concentrated expression of the myth, designed to carry Shalimar’s spirit into the next hundred years.

The exhibition in Paris also serves to celebrate this remarkable history. Among the participating artists is Omar Ba – a creator whose work cuts directly into the contradictions of love, identity, culture and nature. His piece for Guerlain, developed specifically for this exhibition, explores the fragile moment when a woman leaves home to begin a new life, balancing joy and sorrow in a single gesture. In the following conversation, Omar Ba reflects on his process, the scent created around his work, and why love remains the most political – and most human – subject of all.

Omar Ba, Orbite
Ann-Kathrin Riedl: You created the artwork downstairs specifically for this collaboration. Can you describe the process, how it all came together?

Omar Ba: I wanted to explore relationships between a man and a woman, about love and marriage. I focused on the woman, the moment she leaves her home to share her life with her husband, adorned with her ritual ornaments. It speaks about transition, protection, and the strength of women standing at the threshold of change. I worked with flowers and vegetation, reflecting love for nature and for those around us. For me, love carries duality: it is not only happiness but also suffering – and I wanted to balance this in the work.

AK: It’s the moment when you actively decide to leave something behind and start something new. Because love is also a decision.

OB: It is a strong decision, sometimes not an easy one. There are always things that are undisputed, things we cannot control, and things we learn over time – and that shape us. In fact, love builds us. It allows us to grow, but we have to be careful. You cannot know what is going to happen.

AK: What are the core themes of your art, of your work in general?

OB: Most of the time, I work on the relationship between the North and the South, African culture, the African history in relation to Europe, and natural ecology.

AK: Can you see a connection between all these topics?

OB: Yes. When we talk about politics or social issues, it always comes back to fundamental human questions. And love is the fundamental human theme. We all know that even in times of violence or oppression, there are moments when people stop and speak about love. Love must always exist, because that is what gives life its essence.

Most of the subjects I teach – about politics, about nature – are also a way of listening to my community, to myself, to the being that I am. It’s also about animism. Animism is spiritual: when you feel that every living being has a soul, a spirit.

AK: What role does perfume play in that? Downstairs there is a scent connected to your artwork. How did it feel to have one of your paintings translated into a fragrance?

OB: There are certain materials like earth and flowers that I paint. The perfume was built behind the bright blue in the painting, and also behind the flowers, the earth, fertility, and humidity.

AK: Do you have a special relationship with the House of Guerlain?

OB: Guerlain has supported me for many years. And its a perfect match since I love perfumes and have been collecting them for a long time.

AK: How does it feel to create something in collaboration with a brand compared to when you create just for yourself?

OB: A collaboration with a brand is much more complicated. You have to take certain criteria into account. At the same time, it is very interesting because it opens your work to the public and pushes you out of your comfort zone.

AK: Sometimes restrictions give even more freedom. When you have a specific theme, it can open up your ideas even more.

OB: Exactly. Also, when I make a collaboration like this, there is a deadline – and that is good for me. I need it.

AK: What would you tell the woman you painted if you were next to her?

OB: I would tell her to be prepared for everything and to stay true to herself.

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“IMAGINE” at Kunstraum Heilig Geist: Make it simple but significant https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/11/imagine-at-kunstraum-heilig-geist-make-it-simple-but-significant/ Fri, 14 Nov 2025 18:27:12 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65793
Stravoula Coulianidis in conversation with Yves Scherer

Yves Scherer’s new exhibition “IMAGINE” at Kunstraum Heilig Geist at the UNESCO World Heritage Site Zollverein in Essen presents his sculptural universe at its most tender and introspective. Moving between digital longing and quiet physical presence, his works unfold with a subtle emotional charge that resists spectacle. In this conversation with Stavroula Coulianidis, published as excerpts from “Yves Scherer Sculpture” (Verlag der Buchhandlung Walther und Franz König, 2025), Scherer reflects on the evolution of his practice. He traces a path from early post-internet figuration to a more restrained, almost devotional approach to form. What emerges is an artist deeply invested in sincerity, softness, and the interior life of objects. “IMAGINE” becomes not just an exhibition, but a lens through which this shift feels both inevitable and quietly transformative.

Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
Stravoula Coulianidis: Since this is a book on sculpture, I think it would make sense to talk about your thoughts on sculpture as a medium, and how it differs from other mediums—say painting?

Yves Scherer: To me the most fundamental difference between painting
and sculpture is that sculpture shares our physical reality so to say, while I think painting creates and exists in a pictorial space. Every sculpture has to compete with a chair or a lamp as just another real-world object, for painting I think that is different. Even though the history of painting over the past hundred years could be retold in parts as a long move away from thinking of paintings as illusionary space by putting an increasing emphasis on its object hood, our relationship to paintings is still similar to one we have with our phones or a TV—it’s less about what they are on a physical level, but about what they contain. D.H. Lawrence famously said about Cézanne, that he made us aware that matter really exists, outside of human perception. That is how I feel about sculpture, even a blind person can see it so to speak. And while paintings have a dedicated space in the world—they hang on the walls, sculpture, at least the kind that I’m engaged in, does not have a space in the world. In some way one could argue that they take our space. That they are quite literally there instead of us.

SC: Do you see yourself as a sculptor?

YS: I have always understood myself as mainly an artist, and within that as a sculptor only if I’m put on the spot. At the same time I do think that sculpture has always had a special position in my work, it’s the medium that I feel most comfortable in and the most connected to. I sometimes wonder about the reasons for that—today I think that one
reason could be that I don’t have a traditional art education and sculpture from early on always felt more welcoming and less charged and judgmental than drawing and painting. Painting has this very specific history and knowledge, it’s art with a capital A. And even after all this time there still is this relationship with skill and talent. I really
never had any artistic skill or talent to speak of, and in sculpture that was easier to hide.

SC: The book covers sculptures from 2013 to 2025. Are the earliest works in the book your first sculptures or was there something that came before?

YS: I see my very first sculptures as these rabbit traps that I made when I was a literature student in Berlin, around 2010/11. I was having some personal difficulties, and following the advice of a fatherly friend I tried to turn my spiritual fate around by catching some city rabbits. The
background here is that my Chinese zodiac sign is that of a rabbit, and the year of the rabbit was coming up, so I wanted to get ahead of it. To make a long story short I never caught a rabbit, but somehow building these traps made me interested in leaving my writing ambitions behind, and to focus on making things in the real world instead. Step by step I took a studio and got more professionalized, and then had my first solo-exhibition titled Evolution and Comfort in London early 2013. For this show I made a transparent water tank sculpture/object out of 40mm
thick plexiglass. It was a sort of vertical aquarium that was filled with water and leaned against the wall, installed in a long space with only a photograph of my then girlfriend on Skype a few meters behind it on the wall.

SC: Yes I have seen a picture of this installation, and remem- ber you showing the work in New York in a different context later on. What does it mean to you?

YS: My good friend Markus Selg pointed out that the sculpture must be a stand in for the computer screen, since my girlfriend and me were living in a long distance relationship between Berlin and London at the time. It was so surprising to me that I could not see this basic truth
in the composition even though I had been working on this installation for months. Making art is often just a funny way of pulling one’s subconscious inside out and then presenting in a gallery space, which I think is actually quite a cleansing process. It’s the reason that I feel like as an artist one is quite in tune with one’s inner life. One can just externalize it in some way, and then move on. But on a conceptual level the work was probably influenced by the formaldehyde tanks of Damien Hirst and release of the first iPhone during that time.

Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
SC: What came after this exhibition?

YS: I became interested in figurative sculpture and started exploring different ways of making them. I think the first figurative work that I made was right after this show in London and in some way was the other side of that screen I discussed—in that it shows the person in front of it. The work was a self-portrait made of a down jacket that is
stuck in an empty desktop computer tower, the object people used to have in offices and homes below the desk before Laptops. The jacket is arranged or draped to look like there is an actual person in the jacket, so that the mental picture that is created is of someone actually living in the computer, or being stuck in a computer. Art doesn’t translate too well into language, so it sounds silly here. But as a sculpture I think it was formally quite interesting and successful. I later scanned this work and had it cast it in plaster, which totally changed the character of it. I showed the plaster cast on a little rabbit fur for my degree show in 2014.

SC: Was it at this time that the celebrity figures came into your sculptural practice as well?

YS: It was in that same period, exactly. I had moved from Berlin to London in 2012 for my Masters at the Royal College of Art, and the workshops there allowed me to try some new and more elaborate fabrication methods than I had used before. The first work I made there was a life-sized Emma Watson sculpture CNC-milled out of one solid block of Swiss pear wood. It took weeks to first program and then mill it, and I left it just like it came out of the machine. The only thing I added to the figure was this silver hedgehog necklace, because I had read online somewhere that it was her favorite animal. Since there was no other finishing or sanding, one can still see the way the robot was programed, the tracks it was running along and where it couldn’t quite get to etc. I find that quite beautiful.

SC: Where did this work come from? What was the world like for you in 2014?

YS: On a personal level, going back to what I said above, it came at at time when I was living in a long distance relationship, maybe feeling a bit lonely and spending a lot of time on my computer. On a societal scale I think the internet was still somehow new, especially social media, and there was this broader cultural shift towards life spent online, and the alienation that comes from it. It was also the time of the “dark web” with Silk Road and new online forums such as 4chan. There was a series of hacks targetingcelebrity phones which resulted in leaked private imagery— what you would call “nudes” today, and a lot of them
were fake. Living in London and being a Harry Potter fan, I was particularly interested in the attention that Emma Watson got online. I found it interesting to create a work that picked up on this contemporary moment, to reflect on this new character of the internet loner, but to address it within the traditional medium of figurative sculpture. I thought of Pinocchio and how one can now create a companion out of nothing by 3d printing or in my case milling it out wood. In an art historical sense it also aligned with this burgeoning movement in young art that came to be labeled as “Post-Internet” art, where people were interested in somehow bringing digital matter into physical space, or at least bridging the two worlds via objects in the real world beyond just phones and screens.

Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
SC: Wasn’t there an online backlash from your Emma Watson works?

YS: Yes I presented a group of these sculptures with an Emma Watsons face but with fantasy bodies in my first major gallery show at Guido W. Baudach in Berlin 2014. The figures were in the nude with short hair, crossed legs and only their hands covering their breasts. The show got
some positive press coverage, which I think then came to the attention of a feminist Facebook group and some young London artists in specific. They took offense in the work and accused me of objectifying the female figure. I was called a misogynist, had magazines call me for comments and then fairs, exhibitions and sales canceled because of it. I would almost say that I was canceled before that was even a thing yet.

SC: How did you respond to this?

YS: I focused more on myself I think, and maybe lost a bit of my youthful energy at the same time. Shortly after my exhibition at Guido’s I moved to New York and did my first exhibition here at the Swiss Institute in 2015. The show was framed as a fictitious Honey Moon between a mermaid Emma Watson and me, and followed by an exhibition in Mexico in 2016 for which I created this stalker persona
obsessed with Kristen Stewart and Twilight. As a result of my move to New York maybe, and some other changes in my personal life, this fan fiction and celebrity part of my work slowly lost some of its relevance and interest to me. I tried to make work that was more personal and maybe more universal in subject matter at the same time. In 2017 I made an exhibition titled Single which had a picture of myself in the nude as an invite, and mainly consisted of ready-made sculptures of myself, sort of domesticobjects-assemblages. After that I did a show series called Primal in 2018 that presented very simplified, almost
pre-historic wooden figures. I combined these with a lifesized wooden Legolas sculpture, which I made after leaked nude images of Orlando Bloom appeared online. So the the celebrity aspect never fully went away, I just started to juxtapose it with other elements.

SC: Yes one can see a shift in focus towards the male figure in this period, I’m thinking about the Legolas you mentioned, but also the pink Vincent figure and the self-portrait titled Boy.

YS: Totally. In 2019 I did a show called Boys for which I made a plaster self-portrait of myself as a little boy based on a family video. In some way this was in response to the cultural climate of #metoo at the time, but it then also led me to the explore other elements of my past and the cultural archetypes that I grew up with. It led me to make the country boy plucking flowers next, and then the Snowman with the hearts as well as some of the new animal sculptures. Most recently I started combining all these figures into larger groups, which is something that keeps me busy and really excited today.

SC: The first time I saw a group like this was in Los Angeles earlier this year for your exhibition Another Day in Paradise. There was a very large Aluminium sculpture that I had seen before in Mexico, which is the first work one encounters in this book. Could you explain to me where something like this sits within the trajectory you just this? Would you say this is a reflection on masculinity also, maybe in response to the cultural climate that you just described?

YS: The work you mention is titled Day and Night and I made the first iteration of it in 2021 for an exhibition in Mexico titled Eternity. In some way it is a reflection on masculinity which has been an interest of mine from the beginning and I guess heightened with the climate you describe. But I think this specific work comes without any feeling of guilt. I see it as an exploration of the relationship between softness and strength, much beyond the current moment I hope. What I see in the work is an oversized dandelion flower that props up a muscular Greek or Roman hero figure which is missing a leg. The flower is draped
around the torso so that it becomes the missing leg that the figure is precariously leaning on. I see the two elements as forming this fragile unit, but at the same time I could imagine them walking away together like this, him using the flower as a sort of crotch. I find it very poetic and nice how they together manage to defy the gravitational pull, which
is sort of the cleansing force of any standing sculpture.

Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
SC: Flowers seem to be a recurring motif within your sculptural practice over the last few years. There is a flower on the cover of this book. What is the significance of flowers for you?

YS: It differs. In the case of this work we just spoke about, the flower represents things like beauty or poetry or art in my mind, without wanting to load too much onto the work by saying this. I mean that it stands for what contrasts with the physical strength of the figure, but still supports it if that makes sense. In some other works the flower is personified I would say, even the next work where there are two flowers growing out of a concrete block. To me they become almost like figures, I see them as a couple that is flirting with each other in some way.
It’s this little moment of tenderness in a slightly hostile environment that I like about it. And then in some later works like in Laetitia, the flower to me represents a person outside of the arrangement. For this
figure the large flower is turned towards the woman and then child as if it was given to them.

SC: This moment of tenderness and this feeling of intimacy for me really is at the core of your work, it’s what makes something feel like an Yves Scherer work to me.

YS: I’m glad to hear that. Damien Hirst speaks about having to make a fly piece after making a spot painting, just to balance the sort of good with the bad, the pretty with the ugly. I never had it like that. I like to make things that make you feel good, things that give you a deep and
hopefully warm feeling. In driving school you learn that if you look at the tree you will hit it, I think that is a good strategy for life also. If you want to be a happy person, think happy thoughts. The world moves by positive action not negative thought, so I really try to be engaged in the former 248

SC: Would you say that is the purpose of art?

YS: I would need to think more about that. When it comes to the purpose of art, I often think about this quote by Gerhard Richter, who said that “art brushes the dust of the everyday”, which I find very beautiful and right. It can touch on the silly as well as the essential parts of the human experience, but in a way that is pure and complete. What I mean is that the world is always perfect within a work of art, not in a moral sense, but more in the way that a given moment can also be perfect. It’s like cleaning up your house, which gives you that one moment of enlightenment when things are all in place. Or that one first
breath of clean air when you step out in the morning, or looking at your kid when it sleeps or moves in a cute way. Art is exactly like this moment, but it never ends. It’s eternally perfect.

SC: Eternally perfect is how some people may describe Switzerland. You sometimes say that your work is not about fantasy but about presenting an idealized reality, which makes me think of your upbringing. How did growing up in Switzerland influence your work? And how does it contrast with your experience in New York?

YS: I think it was Andy Warhol who said “Switzerland is great, it’s finished”. Which I think is a very interesting observation. My one friend always says about New York— it will be great once it’s finished. Which obviously it will never be. I’m not sure if this really captures anything at
all, but it’s easier to do things in New York. Someone once wrote about my work that “Nothing glamorous ever came from Switzerland,” which I think is an interesting observation. In Switzerland the ultimate achievement and thing another person could say about you, is that you are normal. It’s the absolute peak of Swiss-ness and the real ingredient if you want to belong—is not to stand out. As a young person I think this can feel limiting and disempowering. But the older I get the more I value the understatement and also the social cohesion in some way. There is a true sense of quality and people care about doing the
right thing and about doing things right. I appreciate that today.

SC: Do you see this in your sculptures as well?

YS: What I can see is that my work used to be much more loud and American while I was in Europe and much more Swiss since now that I’m in New York. Today I’m interested in making figures that are centered within themselves, not looking for attention or reliant on an audience or other people. The best I can hope for is to imbue them with a kind spirit, to put a little fire in their hearts. I read something the other day about monasteries, and how some of them are spectacularly modest. I really like that expression and idea, it’s something I strive towards. Maybe it’s my protestant upbringing but I do find true joy and beauty in restraint. I think the spirit lives in simple things. As Carl
Jung famously said, “if you are looking for god and haven‘t found him yet, you are not looking low enough.”

SC: Thinking about high and low here, there are some sculptures in this book that look almost as if they were made with some discarded things that you found around the studio— some of them with a ready-made character, or then these very simple almost archaic figures from your Primal show cycle, but then on the other side you have these highly produced shiny stainless steel and bronze works. How do you square this?

YS: In my mind the genuine opportunity of art is to speak about the things which don’t change over time. Art doesn’t get better with time, it’s not like technology where there is some kind of development and a strong notion of progress. I don’t think art gets better or worse. If I think about a person in a cave, they would carve a figure out of a piece
of rock or bone that might look quite similar to my onyx works. And in spirit and function it is probably pretty close to what I described with the Emma Watson work above—as in the first human carving themselves a friend or thinking about someone they saw in the forest. What I mean here is even though the Emma Watson work is extremely specific, and it took 2000 years of recorded cultural history to get to a place where all these references are in places, and where the technology exist to make it in such a realistic manner by a machine, to me it is no different than a piece of driftwood that barely resembles a figure at all. I’m interested in the whole spectrum of figuration, and think that especially the combination of these different forms, expressions and materials are thrilling to me. While there is a technological graveyard
for a lot of things that came in between, I would say that the earliest human artistic expression can still be as valid and meaningful as anything great made today. Art is like a perpetuum mobile that gives endless energy once it’s created, without ever losing any. Forever.

Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
Yves Scherer, Imagine, 2025, Kunstraum Heilig Geist am UNESCO-Welterbe Zollverein, Photo by James Rodemann, Courtesy of the artist
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Numéro Berlin in Conversation with Christian Stemmler https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/11/numero-berlin-in-conversation-with-christian-stemmler/ Fri, 07 Nov 2025 17:39:21 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65636

Snapshots of Youth and the Sound of the Past

“Back then, I had never considered myself a photographer.”

Berlin, 2025.

Close by Kottbusser Tor, better known as Kotti. Many people have gathered on this day to celebrate the photo book “Anfang / Beginning: Berlin 1990 – 1994”.  An archive of snapshots from another time, as seen through the curious eyes of ever-young Christian Stemmler.

It’s clear that this book has value that goes beyond a single target group. As a documentation of youth, community, friendship, love and Berlin, it has the power to connect and inspire young people of past and current generations. Within the crowd were a few somehow familiar faces. The teens and tweens from Anfang/ Beginning. Christians old friends, matured but still young at heart. They talk and rejoice – some of them haven’t seen each other in years. The photos might be from a time that is now long gone. The club culture in Berlin has changed, the living situation, the way people dress, live and meet. 

Maybe, in some ways, we are less connected to each other nowadays, than back then, when you had to write down addresses and phone numbers to stay in touch. The Berlin of the 90’s surely wasn’t perfect, but it was a place that was unafraid of honesty and change. A place that, after decades of separation, was trying to find itself again. A place where doing nothing and everything at the same time seemed oddly possible. When you talk with people nowadays about Old Berlin, about what it was like to be young there, before the age of the internet, their words often speak of a certain longing for the past. Maybe this is why Christian Stemmler’s retro perspective photo book arrives at such a perfect point in time. Not because of pure nostalgia, but because many people are possibly looking for a direction for their life; one that exists outside of the social media mainstream.  

I sat down with Christian to talk about Berlin, style, youth and staying young.

Cosima W: In the introduction to your book, you write: “You could live without leaving any trace, you could just disappear if you wanted to.” How did the topic of vanishing relate to you and your friends during those days? And which role did photography play in all of this, as a medium that is known to eternalize one’s traces?

Christian S: The interesting thing about the question is: Nobody cared. I must have somehow known subconsciously that what happened then was worth documenting. I was obsessed. I just wanted to photograph people and keep a record of what was happening. But nobody really took any notice. Back then, if you didn’t have a tight relationship with someone, they simply vanished out of your life again. You could not add anyone on social media. We kept records of numbers in a notebook that each of us carried around; that was the only way. And this was even before mobile phones, so we only knew some land line numbers. And not everyone even had a land line. There were some friends that I only saw in the clubs. 

 

I think people nowadays cannot imagine anymore how complicated it was back then – In theory. I never perceived it as such. It was, what was normal back then. If you knew an address, you simply stopped by. If nobody was there, you’d just leave again. You’d know anyways that they would be back in the club next Friday. And if not, you simply never saw them again. It was somehow more absurd when you could suddenly reach everyone when mobile phones became a thing.

 

Because of the image rights I tried to find everyone. A few reached out afterwards, when they discovered the book. Or through a third person. I was so afraid that some people would maybe not want to be a part of this project. But everyone was so happy. It was very touching. 

CW: And how did you approach the image curation process for this book? I imagine there are still a lot more images that are not included in Anfang/ Beginning?

CS: Around twenty percent of the images that I consider good are included in this book. So there definitely is potential for a second book or an exhibition; to maybe approach it from different artistic points of view. I actually did a lot of  posed portraits, too, that weren’t included in this final selection. Anfang/ Beginning is more a collection of snapshots, a documentation. 

Back then when I took the photos, I had already labeled all the films very well: All the envelopes with negatives had a date, where it was, etc. When I then sat down and started scanning, it of course took a while. With a negative scanner, you have to scan image per image. It takes about an hour per film. But this actually helped me with making decisions, by sort of re-living these moments, too.

I also had to cut out a lot of things because I didn’t want the book to be too pricey. I noticed that this younger generation is interested in something like this, too. It should actually be affordable to the kids. But this also meant that I had a limit for the amount of pages I could use. It turned out to be 192 pages. 

Back then, if you didn’t have a tight relationship with someone, they simply vanished out of your life again.
CW: And how did your perception of these images change, after the thirty year break?

CS: I was surprised by how good they turned out. After all, they’ve been sitting around for almost thirty years before the book. Still, after working as a stylist for a long time –  and being exposed to style and photography for almost 25 years – I somehow anticipated that there would be something interesting in there. But still, back then, I had never considered myself a photographer. So to see these raw emotions captured so well by my back then untrained eye was truly surprising. Of course, a lot of the credit goes to the people themselves. They are very cool people to begin with. 

Taking photos was also different back then. People didn’t pose the way they pose now. You were not so obsessed with your image, didn’t take selfies. There were no digital images of you. I think that’s another reason why the people in the images have certain expressions to them. They are somehow surprised and grateful that I took a photo of them. 

 

CW: Looking back on these photos, how has this time changed your definition of style and impacted your later work as a stylist?

CS: I actually saw how well it captures my approach to style. The people, what they wore and how they wore it, influenced me a lot. What I wore back then, too. Me and my friends’ style had a huge impact on my later work. When I took a look at some of these images, I thought: Wow, I still dress women like this. Like these cool girls that I met when I was 18. In the very beginning there is a couple, dressed in a leopard fur coat and red coat. They were the first lesbian couple that I met when I was a teenager. I thought they were so cool. And this image left its mark on me. Some of the looks in this book are looks you could wear today. Young people that I have shown these images to, said: ”It sort of looks like today. And somehow, not.” Style is about nuance. 

This time, the nineties in Berlin, was of course hugely influential for a lot of people. For style in general. It still is.

CW: If you were young again, in the year 2025, what would you do? How would it be different?

CS: Interesting question. That time, the nineties, they’re over. This sense of escapism, living life day by day and the drug consumption that comes with it; it’s not possible anymore. You have to be fucking rich in order to afford this sort of life. All the people you see in the book are East-German working class kids. They had no money. We managed, but just because back then rent was 100€ per month. If you convert the money I had available per month back then to Euros, it was around 375€ in total. It covered rent and everything else. And sometimes you even had money left over at the end of the month. If you compare it to now, it’s insane. You cannot live like this anymore, neither in a European capital nor anywhere else. I would have to think of something else. 

CW: Is there a place that feels to you now like Berlin did back then?

CS: Tbilisi, where I live now. I consider it a time capsule. I also finished up the book there. The club scene in Tbilisi comes the closest to what I experienced back in Berlin. Of course, Social Media, Capitalism, Gentrification, it’s all leaving its mark there, too. And still, it remains somehow protected from many things. Kind of like Kiev was before the war. 

Another aspect is of course, that the whole club culture hasn’t existed in Tbilisi as long as it has in Berlin. Here, in Berlin, the same music has been on repeat for the past 35 years. 

But there is still a sense of newness and the Euphoria that comes with it. It’s also a bit softer. There is much less of a drug-epidemic, too. I don’t really go out in Berlin anymore. I already experienced the best Berlin parties that one could experience.

CW: And as a last question, what does youth mean to you?

CS: To keep on moving. Having intergenerational exchange. Listening to young people, that’s super important to me. Staying curious and constantly expanding your mind.  

 

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