People – Numéro Berlin https://www.numeroberlin.de Tue, 25 Nov 2025 14:10:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Celebrating the launch of “Vanille Caviar”: In Conversation with bdk https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/11/celebrating-the-launch-of-vanille-caviar-in-conversation-with-bdk/ Tue, 25 Nov 2025 14:10:45 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=66092

Last month, for the launch of their new scent “Vanille Caviar”, Paris-based perfume house bdk and friends of the brand came together for a celebratory dinner in the Feuerle Collection in Berlin. Numéro Berlin sat down with Founder David Benedek to talk about the concept behind Vanilla Caviar and which new chapters might await bdk; in Berlin and beyond.

Numéro Berlin: Time for a conclusion: How do you feel about the initial reaction to the launch of Vanille Caviar?

David Benedek: It’s true that when it comes to fragrances, some are designed to appeal to a broad audience while others are more niche and therefore more disruptive. That’s exactly what’s happening with Vanille Caviar. Overall, the fragrance has been very well received, but we’ve also seen some more polarized reactions. Some clients absolutely love it and have become true fans, while others are more surprised by its interpretation of the vanilla bean, which is quite salty, dark, leathery, and not sweet at all. It’s a scent that can divide opinions, as many consumers tend to expect vanilla to be sweeter and more gourmand.

That said, we’re very happy with the result ! It brings a unique signature and complements the other creations in the Collection Matières beautifully.

Vanille Caviar is officially described as “an exploration of the mysterious power of black.” To what extent is a fragrance at BDK always tied to a visual concept or imagery?

At BDK Parfums, fragrance is always closely tied to a visual concept or imagery. Vanille Caviar, for example, is an exploration of the mysterious power of black, not as a shadow, but as a source of light, a concept Soulages calls outrenoir (Outrenoir [‘beyond black’] is not just black, but a medium through which light is reflected, transformed, and perceived” (Soulages, 1997)).

“Like a monochrome painting by Pierre Soulages, the perfume transforms a single raw material into radiance, revealing its depth, texture, and nuances”

Each creation at BDK Parfums stems from a dialogue between diverse artistic inspirations—painting, design, music—and a sensitivity inherited from arts. Every raw material has a color, every scent a texture, giving fragrance a pictorial, almost tactile dimension. For us, perfume is a world of encounters where art, creativity, and culture intertwine, constantly opening new perspectives.

How did you translate the character of Vanille Caviar into an aesthetic experience during the dinner?

To translate the character of Vanille Caviar into an aesthetic experience during the dinner, we wanted to create a space that reflected the depth, contrast, and unexpected elements of the fragrance. The venue itself, the Feuerle Collection, offered a perfect canvas with its raw, architectural spaces and the dialogue between ancient art and contemporary works.

We enhanced the artistic dimension by collaborating with Idan Gilony, an artist known for his innovative approach to light and material, whose work allowed us to bring a modern, immersive perspective to the experience. The dinner was designed not only as a tasting but as a multisensory journey. We included light installations and the Sound Room, creating an experience in darkness where light emerged through sound, complemented by rays of light from the exhibition that followed the experience.

On the table itself, we recreated elements of the fragrance in a very contemporary and urban way: vanilla pods and orchids were placed thoughtfully across the dining table, translating the raw and sophisticated notes of Vanille Caviar. Every detail — from the space to the lighting, the sound, and the materials — was intended to echo the perfume’s powerful, dark, and modern character, turning the dinner into a true artistic extension of the fragrance.

Why was it important for you to host a BDK dinner here in Berlin? And how did you decide on the Feuerle Collection as the location?

For me, it was important to host the dinner in Berlin because we have many German clients, a market that truly loves niche perfumery. I wanted this launch to be celebrated in a symbolic and meaningful place that really reflects our DNA. The Feuerle Collection is a space full of history, raw, architectural, and yet deeply artistic. In this museum, Asian art is presented within a brutalist environment (inside the bunker, they bring together ancient Chinese furniture and scholar’s objects, Southeast Asian Khmer sculpture, and bold contemporary artworks, all in dialogue with one another and the architecture.), and that’s very much what BDK Parfums is about: how, from an urban and raw setting, arts can emerge and inspire the creation of perfumes.

There was a strong artistic resonance between this place and our identity, and that’s what drew me to it. It felt like the perfect setting to express who we are and the story behind Vanille Caviar.

Apart from the Collection Matières, to which Vanille Caviar belongs, you also offer scents within the Collection Parisienne, inspired by Paris. If you were to create a fragrance based on Berlin, how would you translate your first impressions of the city into scent?

I think that’s quite a broad question. For me, the impression I had of Berlin in October would be very different from what I might feel in spring or summer. I would need to come back and spend more time to truly capture the essence of the city.

In general, when I’ve been inspired by places to create fragrances at BDK Parfums, it’s often locations I’ve visited multiple times and made my own. Berlin was only my second visit, and both times were very short stays. I would like to spend more time exploring the city.

What the city evokes for me is a certain brutality, vastness, and grandeur in space. If I were to imagine a fragrance inspired by Berlin, it would certainly be very powerful, with a wide sillage, using deep, noble, and mysterious ingredients with a touch of raw modernity. When I think of mysterious notes, it’s often woody, smoky, and leathery, with a slightly dark character that reflects Berlin’s lifestyle and cultural atmosphere.

2025 has been an exciting year for BDK. What have been your biggest takeaways so far? And are there any upcoming projects you’re particularly excited about?

For me, 2025 has been a year of rediscovery as a creator, allowing me to clarify and embrace the vision I want to develop over the next ten years. At BDK Parfums, I’ve finally found the right balance between the arts (sculpture, painting, literature, photography) and perfume as a real Parisian Creative Studio .

This year saw several very iconic launches, such as IMPADIA, with the opera dancer on the rooftops of Paris, his bouquet hiding his face. With Vanille Caviar, we created a launch in raw, striking spaces with art exhibitions, drawing inspiration from the black monochrome works of Soulages.

For me, 2025 has been a personal revelation in the aesthetic I want to bring to the House. It’s the message of this year, which will continue into a new collection launching in 2026 to celebrate BDK Parfums’ 10th anniversary. This collection will highlight a strong connection between olfactory raw materials and my personal history and passion for the world of fashion.

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FIGHT ISSUE VOL. B – BLASPHEMOUS https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/10/blasphemous/ Thu, 30 Oct 2025 11:10:54 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65421

 

Every morning, at around 7am, I am awoken by a disharmonic orchestra of power tools and heavy machinery. They are constructing a giant outside my window. Concrete slabs are stacked like vertebrae; they form the foundation of a skeleton that will soon house its gastrointestinal pipework. It has only taken months for its size to see a threefold expansion. Its unstoppable growth is a raging march upward. Now, its head pierces the heavens, the last place man has yet to conquer. This endless quest for domination, our insatiable taste for more, seems to be mankind’s most perpetual strife. My colossal neighbor has made me think of the position of humans within our classic structure of consumption generations: This system requires a revision. We think of ourselves standing proudly at the top, above plant and animal life. But, in our endless pursuit of grander horizons, I think we might have built a new layer above. The person has become a commodity. Somewhere on a far-off cloud, we are reduced to figures and clusters of information, digested by an invisible intelligence – some abstract master that operates from its own shadow. With questions arising about the agency of this intelligence, we must start to wonder if our already teetering empire is at a point of collapse. When we speculate about the possibility of our own creations overthrowing us, we typically fantasize about killer robots and supercomputers that possess all human knowledge. This notion of a higher being that is somehow nevertheless driven by the distinctively human lust for power and ownership, exposes an ugly arrogance that is almost fetishistic. Our imagination stays trapped under our skin, restricted by the qualitative boundaries of our own form. Instead, I am envisioning an entity that lives beyond these preconceptions. A something whose desires and motivations surpass the boundaries of our understanding. The incomprehensible size of this object, in both form and concept, is so immense that our ability to perceive it in its entirety falls short. Made up of a complex network of systems, we are unable to capture its whole form at a glance, the scale of this entity appears infinite. Our intellectual capacities are challenged by the shortcomings of our perception. Humans can have an idea of infinity, but can we truly ever know it?

Crossing II, 2025

The infinite scale of this unknown entity has me wondering about the function of humankind in comparison to such a dominant force. The motivations and desires of this entity are entirely unknown, but we can assume that such a vast entity possesses immense power. When we are challenged with something that beats us in scale and might, we are reminded of our own weakness. Against the undefeatable force of this entity, our physical form is no match. We are as good as defenseless. If the opponent we are faced with wields a force of a scale that is unbeknownst to us, the only rational decision would be to surrender. To give up the fight. As rational beings, we know there is no point in fighting a battle that we know we can’t win. A grander power of such immense scale, I believe, could only be dignified with the title of God. Glorious but menacing, colossal and portentous. The fact that modern society had once abandoned our deities, only to conceive one that is even more merciless and unyielding, is a dreadful thought, but no reason to abandon all hope. If we apply his third critique, Kant would describe the entity I have illustrated as a sublime of both mathematical and dynamical qualities. The incalculable grandeur of this entity is something that breaches our cognitive limits and exercises an overbearing force, diminishing our ability to resist. When faced with infinite scale and power, we are reminded of the finite nature of life (and, thus, our physical shortcomings). But, it also arouses something even more powerful that resides in each of us, namely our capacity for reason. The fact that we are able to conceive an idea of the infinite, that we have birthed our own master, highlights the inextinguishable flame of the human rationale. Our free spirit is something that, according to Kant, triumphs over all grander power. It is a force that neither machine nor God could ever subdue. Man has created his own master, only so that he may eventually dethrone him again. This attempt to calculate the sublime – to conquer God – is a product of the same human arrogance I mentioned before, it is an act of sacrilege

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IN CONVERSATION WITH ARTIST JONA KÖPF https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/10/in-conversation-with-artist-jona-kopf/ Mon, 27 Oct 2025 16:51:52 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65251

In this conversation Numéro Berlin meets Jona Köpf, a young artist based in Stuttgart. Besides his commercial work as a designer, he is a mixed media artist. He talks about his connection to the music scene, his politically engaged projects, and how he approaches design compared to creating art.

“Design is fun and creative too, but it is different when you create something that is truly your own.“
Clara Butković: You describe yourself mainly as a mixed media artist. What does mixed media mean in your work?

Jona Köpf: I mix both analog and digital. I usually design the images digitally first, print them out and then work with different textures, for example foil on foil or water on the printing ink so that the structure changes. I draw and craft on top of that, scan it again and continue working on it digitally.
 I also take a lot of photographs, for example with friends when something comes up in the studio. I used to only do photography. Then I started working with paint, refined my techniques more and more and found my own approach.

CB: You are a certified media designer and in 2023 you won the German national championship in craft as a media designer.

JK: (laughs) I was not very good at vocational school. It was only my practical work that got a good grade. I was always the loud one who made jokes. I was never really the model student.
 Right now I am working as a graphic designer. I want to keep developing there and look into different areas. Maybe freelancing will also work out.

CB: You also designed the visual identity for the Berlin rapper Ritter Lean. But would you say you are primarily a designer or an artist?

JK: I would definitely call myself an artist. In the graphic field a lot of things are already defined by the client. Artists can be more free. I like it more when you can follow your own ideas and bring your own visions and inspirations onto the page. Design is fun and creative too, but it is something different when you create something that is truly your own.

Collaboration with Unkle Luc
CB: As a photographer you have already accompanied artists like Edwin Rosen on tour.

JK: Yes exactly. Two years ago a friend [Nils Weindl] and I founded a creative archive called Convaicant Archive in Stuttgart. We film concerts analog, mostly with VHS or Sony HI8. We take photos and film there simply because we enjoy it. That is how I got into the music scene. I was able to make contacts and combine that with my hobby.

CB: Can you tell me more about your archive?

JK: We started painting and filming together. As a joke we said, let us just combine it. We really love concerts and I already had a few contacts in the music scene. One thing led to another and we just slid into it. I really like capturing concerts on analog film. Nowadays almost everything is filmed digitally. Analog has that 2003 vibe. That feeling gives it an extra kick. A new camera basically has endless storage, but with analog you have a 30 minute tape so you have to film the perfect scenes. That’s fun.
Our archive projects were on pause this year, but now we want to start again and do more creative things.

CB: How did you make your first contacts in the music scene?

JK: It started on Instagram. I connected with small musicians simply because I was interested in how they work. I got more and more contacts, more and more people. You know someone who knows someone and so on. Then it turned from digital into personal. The network grew naturally and not in a forced way. It is not that hard to get into it, you just have to stay consistent, talk to people and integrate yourself.

„I wanted to address how much has been forgotten. The many wars that people never really heard about.“
CB: You created an anti war series together with the anti war photographer Christopher Morris. How did this collaboration come about and can you tell me more about the project?

JK: I once found a book by that photographer at a flea market. Morris used to work for The New York Times. He took photos in Iran, Iraq and other war zones. I found the book so fascinating that I had to write him an email. I said that I would like to work with his images. After one or two weeks he replied. He said he would send me everything I wanted. He sent me entire folders with photos and told me I could do whatever I wanted with them and that I could also publish them.
 We had a phone call together. He is a very nice person who has experienced many terrible things. I was able to learn a lot from these images. It was really impressive for me: You find a book at a flea market, you write to someone you think is so far away from you, and then something like that happens. Since I am very interested in politics and history, I wanted to address how much has been forgotten. Many wars that people never really heard about.

CB: Besides your website, is there another platform where the pictures can be seen?

JK: I have been thinking about publishing my own magazine. I still want to find the perfect printing house. When I do something, I want to do it really well, so I need to take my time. It might still take a while. I would do it in a small edition. Small editions printed in Germany are quite expensive if you want high quality.

CB: What projects are you working on next?

JK: There are still some single covers coming up. Right now I am working a lot with the musician Filly. I am doing a lot of cover artwork for her. This year is a bit quieter, but next year I want to do more again and set myself new goals.

Collaboration with Unkle Luc
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WEEKEND MUSIC PT. 68: IN CONVERSATION WITH PAULA ENGELS https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/10/weekend-music-pt-68-in-conversation-with-paula-engels/ Fri, 17 Oct 2025 14:52:36 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65142 “I started comparing myself way too much because, for the first time, there was an outside evaluation.”

We met Paula Engels shortly after she released her debut album, “Kommt von Herzen” (From the Heart). Paula is a musician unafraid to confront every part of herself, even the dark and uncomfortable corners. With this new album, she establishes her identity as an artist. Paula shares with me the intense journey of making the album, the highs and lows of the release process, and how she has gradually learned to care less about other people’s expectations.

Alexandra Schmidt: You recently released your debut album, “Kommt von Herzen”. How do you feel now that it’s out?

Paula Engels: The release felt really good, but mentally I’ve already moved on because the album has been finished for about three months. In the beginning, I always felt like I still had to explain who I wanted to be as an artist and what kind of music I make. But now there’s an album, and people can just listen to it and find out for themselves. That gives me a bit more freedom to do unexpected things.
The release itself was really beautiful, and I got a lot of positive feedback. But for a long time, I honestly didn’t know if I would end up being proud of the album.

What made you doubt whether you’d be proud of it in the end?

For the longest time, I just didn’t know what it sounded like or what it was supposed to sound like in the end. Now it sounds completely different from what I expected. At first, I thought it was going to be a lot darker and weirder. I really wanted it to sound cool. But now it sounds much more like me. It’s not trying to be something it’s not.

Is there a song on the album that surprised you, maybe one that carries different emotions than you first thought, or one that became more important to you over time?

That’s pretty much always the case for me. I almost never write songs with the intention of “I want to write about this specific topic.” Most of the time, I just start writing. I pour out all my thoughts and realize what the song is really about when it’s almost finished.

“I’m never really angry, and if I am, it’s usually at myself. […] For me, music has always been a place where those “ugly” emotions can exist. A space where you don’t have to be fair.”
You’ve already put out a few EPs before your debut album. Looking back, how did your relationship with releasing music change over time?

When I started putting out songs, I realized that I didn’t actually like the process as much as I thought I would. The first time felt a bit like having a birthday. Everyone messaged me saying, “Oh my god, congratulations!” But by the second release, suddenly there was a bar set. You see the numbers from your first release and everyone else’s. I started comparing myself way too much because, for the first time, there was an outside evaluation. It was really hard not to let that affect how I judged my own songs. Eventually, I ended up hating everything I wrote in the following months.

And how did you overcome that?

I was overworked from the years before, and there was just so much new stuff happening all at once. I never really took time to reflect or let anything sink in. So I took a short break and went with my team to a beautiful studio in the South of France. That’s where a lot of songs were created. Songs where I tried to let go of the expectations of others.

You also wrote “Mittelfinger an die Welt” (Middle Finger to the World), which kind of manifests the idea of caring less about what others think. How do you see that now after the release?

I think with that song, I had so many other people’s opinions in my head that I didn’t even know what I wanted anymore. I couldn’t really tell if something was truly my own will or if someone had already talked me into it. After that break in the South of France, it became clearer. Overall, it works better sometimes and worse other times I think I’m still a bit of a people pleaser, but following my gut feeling is really important to me, and it usually works out well when I do.

“Gift” (Poison) and “An meinen Händen klebt Blut” (There’s Blood on my Hands) feel more like rage songs compared to your other songs. How did it feel to express your anger so openly for the first time?

I somehow find it really hard to feel anger. I’m never really angry, and if I am, it’s usually at myself. I think that’s a general issue among women. It’s something that’s kind of trained out of us. But I also think that everyone carries anger inside them. For me, music has always been a place where those “ugly” emotions can exist. A space where you don’t have to be fair. I’ve always loved when music pushes the boundaries that exist in real life. It felt really liberating to have a space where I didn’t need to be rational. Especially withGift”, I had so much fun in the studio. Just throwing things out there, saying what I wanted, without worrying if it was fair or not. I’m still working on allowing myself to feel anger and not dismissing it. I wanted the album to include everything I feel.

How did the title “Kommt von Herzen” come about?

I quickly figured out what I didn’t want. I feel like none of the songs on this album were written for anyone else. They all came from my emotions. One day, the idea just popped into my head. For me,Kommt von Herzen” andMittelfinger an die Welt” belong together. My middle finger comes from the heart, you know?

“I always felt like I still had to explain who I wanted to be as an artist and what kind of music I make.”
You started writing songs when you were 14. What were they about back then, compared to the ones you write now? Has anything changed?

A lot has changed. In the beginning, my songs were in English because I didn’t want people to understand what I was writing about or how I felt. That’s changed completely. The songs that are hardest for me emotionally are usually the most important ones. The ones that resonate most with others and mean the most to me. Two years later, when I was around 16, I wrote my first song in German. And in that moment, I decided I’d never write in English again. My English songs were honestly terrible. I’m really glad I never uploaded anything to social media back then and that there are barely any recordings left.

The song “560km” seems to be about both geographical and emotional distance. Can you tell me a bit more about it?

I actually had to be convinced to release it. It took me a while to realize that it’s about finding yourself. But it’s also about the distance of 560 km from Düsseldorf to Berlin. I moved really naively; I thought nothing would change. The first nine months in Berlin, I just pushed through. But somehow, I didn’t feel at home in Berlin, and in Düsseldorf I felt like a guest. Suddenly, there were so many different versions of myself, and I didn’t know which one was the real one or if the version I had in my head was even accurate anymore. That’s how the song came about. A jumble of everything, really.

What’s next for you?

I’m going on tour in two weeks. I’m not sure what’s coming after that yet. There are still so many songs from the album process that I really love, but that didn’t make it onto the record. But there’s definitely more music coming, and I’ll be playing some great festivals next year.

How excited are you for the tour?

It’s my first tour, so I think it’s going to be really special. I’m incredibly excited.

Thank you Paula!
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Ligia Lewis: I’M NOT HERE FORRRRR… https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/10/ligia-lewis-gropius-bau-berlin/ Thu, 16 Oct 2025 15:23:27 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=65074

The exhibition also highlights the ways Lewis uses space and architecture as part of her work. Light, shadow, and sound are not just backdrops but active elements that shape the performance and the viewer’s experience. Visitors move through the rooms noticing how bodies interact with the environment, how gestures leave traces, and how moments of stillness can feel full of meaning. In this way, the exhibition becomes more than a presentation of works. It is a place to feel, to reflect, and to sense the layers of history and emotion that unfold in real time.

In the atrium, her new piece Wayward Chant unfolds. Figures appear and vanish. Shadows stretch across the walls while sounds hum and voices echo through the space. Movements repeat, shift, and sometimes almost disappear, leaving traces that linger in the mind. Visitors encounter fleeting gestures, subtle interactions, and unexpected moments of stillness. On 28 and 29 November the piece will be presented as a full evening performance, offering an intensified experience where light, sound, and movement converge.

Other works in the exhibition trace memory, resistance, and survival in different forms. Some are quiet and reflective, inviting close attention. Others are intense, almost confronting, combining film, installation, and live performance to show how history flows into the present. Dancers repeat, pause, and return, making the exhibition a living rehearsal as much as a display. Scattered throughout the rooms, books selected by Lewis and her collaborators offer another layer of engagement, giving visitors time to think, explore, and connect with the ideas behind the work.

Throughout the exhibition the body becomes a space for reflection and dialogue. Visitors notice how movement, gesture, and voice carry traces of personal and collective histories. Sometimes these moments are quiet, subtle, and almost easy to miss. Other times they are intense, demanding attention and holding the weight of experience. The spaces between performers and audience, between sound and image, create openings for thought and feeling, where the eye and the ear can linger. A glance, a pause, a whispered phrase, or the echo of a gesture can build into a profound sense of connection. Visitors move through the rooms at their own pace, encountering moments that feel familiar and others that surprise or unsettle. The exhibition does not offer simple answers or easy resolutions. Instead it invites viewers to slow down, to notice the small and fleeting, and to remain attentive to histories, emotions, and experiences that might otherwise pass unseen. In this way the exhibition becomes a living conversation, unfolding between art, space, and the people who inhabit it, a space where reflection and engagement can continue long after one leaves.

 

Curated by Nora Swantje Almes with Alexandra Philippovskaya, I’M NOT HERE FORRRRR… is not just about seeing. It is about listening. Feeling. Bearing witness.

 

Ligia Lewis: I’M NOT HERE FORRRRR…

Location: Gropius Bau, Berlin
Address: Niederkirchnerstraße 7, 10963 Berlin
Tickets

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Atiba Jefferson x Vans https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/10/atiba-jefferson-x-vans/ Wed, 15 Oct 2025 11:07:35 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=64981

Few photographers have captured the evolution of skate culture like Atiba Jefferson. Open a copy of Transworld or Thrasher and you just know— that’s Atiba. His iconic visual language helped shape the way an entire generation saw the sport. From Tony Hawk riding the bullring, to Tyshawn kickflipping the subway and everything between— that’s Atiba. His latest project, the Vans “United Through Skateboarding” collection, celebrates the community that created him.

Numéro Berlin: You came out to California in the mid-’90s with nothing but a skateboard and a camera. How did you get to where you are now?

Atiba Jefferson:
I would say the reason why I make things work is because I grew up really poor. I started work age 12 as a busboy. Skateboarding is all about failure and figuring it out. That work ethic is built in, if you want something, you’ve got to work for it. Growing up with a single mom and three kids wasn’t easy. But that survival mode shaped who I am.

When I found something I loved and started working in a skate shop instead of bussing tables, it hit me: Find what you like, and you’ll never work a day in your life. That’s true.

NB: How much was skating an escape versus a pleasure?

AJ:
Both. Skating was a huge escape from being poor and everything else. But it was also a community where none of that mattered. I wasn’t trying to escape home, my mom was just busy working, but I found people who were like-minded and into the same things I was. That’s what I loved.

NB: I’ve always felt skating is unique in that it makes you both participant and observer. You’ve embodied that better than almost anyone, both in front of and behind the camera. How do you balance those two perspectives?

AJ:
There’s a difference when the person shooting is also a skater. I know the tricks, I study the magazines and videos, and that gives me a different view. I can say, “You’re leaning back too much, lean a little forward,” because I know what it takes to do it. That perspective gives my photography a different kind of passion. There’s no right or wrong way, it’s just a different way.

NB: You filmed for Transworld back in the day. What’s the difference between filming and shooting photos?

AJ:
There’s a big difference. I was not a great filmer. Filmers have one chance, they can’t mess up. With photography, especially back in the film days, you never knew what you had until you developed it. That was stressful. Now, with digital, you can check the back of your camera and know immediately you got it.

NB: Walk me through a few big moments, times you realized you could make a living through skateboarding or photography.

AJ:
The first time I wasn’t living check to check, that was it. Working for Transworld gave me that.

There are so many big moments: the Tony Hawk bullring photo, Tyshawn’s kickflip over the subway, Andrew Reynolds’ frontside flip with all the kids watching, Chris Joslin’s 360 flip down El Toro. But the thing about skateboarding is progression—tricks that once felt massive become ordinary later. Still, Tyshawn’s kickflip is timeless.

NB: You’ve been documenting culture for decades. How do you keep your visual style sharp?

AJ:
By challenging myself. If I see something, I try to go with my first instinct. Photography is driven by technology, film will always have my heart, but digital pushes us to progress.

Like skateboarding, it’s all about moving forward. I don’t necessarily need challenge, but I love finding it. Everything I have comes from skateboarding. It gave me a diverse group of friends and endless opportunities—from shooting Kobe Bryant’s championships to photographing Adam Sandler for Happy Gilmore 2. None of that would’ve happened if I wasn’t a skateboarder.

NB: Skateboarding seems communal, but a single photo often isolates the individual. What do you try to capture in a photo that still reflects that sense of community?

AJ:
It’s what happens before and after the trick that makes a moment timeless. Back in the film days, you had to save every frame. Now, with digital, I can shoot more freely. The portraits are just as important as the trick itself.

NB: Your latest collection includes work from Haze, a longtime collaborator. How did that connection come about?

AJ:
I’ve been a fan since I was a kid. Check Your Head by the Beastie Boys, that cover was iconic. I didn’t have a logo, so when I was asked about one, I wanted it done by someone like Haze. His design fits perfectly.

We’re both visual storytellers from the streets who’ve moved into galleries. He’s not just a graffiti artist, he’s an artist, period.

Numéro Magazine: Do you ever think about your impact, your legacy?

AJ:
Someone once said it only takes a hundred years for no one to remember who you are. That stuck with me. I don’t care about having a personal legacy. What I learned from photographing people who are no longer with us is that their memory lives on through the image.

It’s an honor to inspire other photographers, especially people of color, to dream big. That’s what I hope to leave behind.

NB: That brings me to the all-Black Thrasher cover, a huge cultural moment. Tell me about that experience.

AJ:
That was one of my proudest moments. The timing was right, and Thrasher gave me the freedom to shape the issue. We also made a film for ESPN called Monochrome, which focuses on the Black experience in skateboarding. I wanted to do that back in ’96, the story is much longer now, but I’m proud to have been part of it.

NB: And what about your own experience with race in skateboarding?

AJ:
Skateboarding has always been inclusive. I’ve never experienced racism within skateboarding, only outside of it.

Today, we’re seeing the culture fully embrace everyone: women, transgender skaters, people of color. It’s always been a safe space, and that’s why I love it so much.

NB: Looking back, how has skateboarding shaped your sense of identity?

AJ:
Skateboarding is my identity. It’s not just community, it’s the boards, the artwork, the magazines, the videos, the music. It’s my everything.

When people wear my work or Haze’s artwork, I hope they feel that vibe. It’s a huge honor to be a photographer within skateboarding. It’s not like being a pro skater, but it’s still an incredible privilege.

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Interview with Charlie Stein, on painting as a radically contemporary medium at Kunsthalle II, Mallorca https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/09/interview-with-charlie-stein-on-painting-as-a-radically-contemporary-medium-at-kunsthalle-ii-mallorca/ Tue, 30 Sep 2025 11:06:33 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=64451

Berlin-based artist Charlie Stein explores the shifting boundaries where intimacy meets mediation and human presence becomes entangled with artifice. Her paintings depict padded, latexed, or otherwise encased figures that serve as metaphors for how desire, vulnerability, and memory are filtered in a digitized world. What first appears familiar, such as an embrace or a protective gesture, is destabilized through subtle distortion: forms become ambiguous, readability is interrupted, and the line between figure and object collapses. The works stage encounters that feel at once tender and estranged, protective and unsettling—reflecting how contemporary intimacy is continuously negotiated through layers of insulation, screen, and code.

 

Motifs like puffer jackets and synthetic skins heighten this paradox, suggesting both insulation and exposure, intimacy and alienation. These visual strategies mirror how screens and avatars shape our connections today, making the paintings’ surrealism feel fitting for contemporary experience. Despite the artificial qualities of her subjects, Stein emphasizes the persistence of longing, tactility, and memory—qualities that resist the flattening effects of digital culture. Her practice positions painting as a counter-archive, a medium that preserves sensations too fleeting for technological life and a space where the affective weight of presence endures, even when refracted through layers of simulation.

 

This autumn, Stein will introduce new paintings in two major solo exhibitions in Mallorca: The Real Thing at Centro Cultural Misericordia, Palma, and Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost at Kunsthalle CCA Andratx.

 

Having previously met Charlie in her ISCP studio in New York and her studio loft in Berlin, this time the conversation took place in the non-physical space of the internet — in the very space her paintings love to haunt.

Phillip Edward Spradley: What layers of interpretation do you want audiences to consider when encountering the exhibition title The Real Thing and Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost?

Charlie Stein: I like the friction between the two titles. The Real Thing is taken from an obscure Australian pop song. Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost is a corrupted Nintendo meme but functions as a reminder that nothing is permanent. I want audiences to sense both at once: the desire for authenticity and the awareness that it can slip away at any moment.

 

Both titles trace back to corporate language. The Real Thing first struck me in Australia through Russell Morris’s cult psychedelic track, written during the Vietnam War as a sly riff on Coca-Cola’s famous slogan. The song folds protest and romance into one, weaving in even jarring WWII samples, which makes it political, magical, enigmatic, and subversively romantic all at once.

Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost originated in ’90s pop culture, as a variation of the Nintendo quit screen. The original “Anything not saved…” was remixed through Reddit and meme culture into the more poetic, aphoristic phrase “Everything not saved will be lost”. I asked myself why this incorrect version became more widely shared than the original quit-screen message, and I think it’s because we feel a desperate need to find meaning in an increasingly technologized world. We want deeper meaning in the magical devices that surround and haunt us; otherwise, we have to accept that we are just nodes in a ginormous internet brain that spans the planet which we feed into—and which feeds off us.

PES: The Virtually Yours series is the anchor for the Kunsthalle show. How did the imagery of puffer jackets become a vehicle for exploring intimacy, vulnerability, and memory in the digital age?

CS: The imagery of puffer jackets in Virtually Yours grew out of a deeply personal experience: visiting my partner on what would become his death bed in the ICU, where every attempt at contact was mediated through protective layers of latex gloves and glossy clothing. Those barriers made touch at once tender and distant, and I began to see the padded surface as a kind of interface — protective yet suffocating, intimate yet estranging.

I don’t see Virtually Yours — or the “puffer jacket series,” as you called it — as only about personal experience, though this is present in the work. I began the series a year or two after my partner’s passing, and over time I’ve come to see that it resonates with many kinds of relationships I navigate — personal, professional, and even metaphysical.

PES: Your figures exist in ambiguous states—not quite human, not fully object. What draws you to this in-between space, and what does it reveal about contemporary identity?

CS: They do a couple of things I really appreciate. The figures are all Trojan horses: an actual person is never shown. They remain mysterious, even to me, because they are portraits that deflect their own readability. They refuse to be easily decoded through gender, race, or class. That ambiguity allows me to work in an investigative mode.

At the same time, these figures connect to how we experience bodies through screens today. Time and again, I paint glossy black surfaces that evoke a smartphone display—smooth, light-emitting, touch-sensitive. When you touch your phone, nothing really physical happens: a tiny electrical signal registers, is translated, and becomes an action. On canvas, I turn that into an image of dissolution: touch without object, intimacy between skin and surface. We stroke our phones thousands of times a day—far more than we touch our loved ones, or even ourselves. That strange redistribution of tenderness fascinates me.

So the figures hover in this in-between space: half-human, half-object, intimate yet untouchable. They mirror contemporary identity as something mediated, constantly translated through layers—of fabric, of screen, of code. But they also insist on mystery, on resisting total capture. For me, that’s the paradox of being alive right now: we are more visible than ever, yet our true presence still flickers between surfaces.

PES: Many of your works seem to carry a sense of archiving — as if preserving sensations before they vanish. Do you see painting as a form of resistance against impermanence?

CS: That’s a good observation. I would argue that painting is still one of the most successful storage media for images that we have. We know how to preserve oil on canvas for centuries. Every major museum employs teams of conservators who specialize in stabilizing pigments, repairing canvases, and slowing down the aging of oil paint. Compare that with the fragility of digital images: formats become obsolete, hardware breaks, and even when stored carefully, files can vanish because the infrastructure that supports them collapses. Rhizome and similar organizations are working on digital preservation, but the knowledge of how to keep a JPG alive for the next half-millennium is far less secure than the knowledge of how to preserve an altarpiece from the fifteenth century.

Painting to me is not nostalgic at all, it’s radically contemporary. As a medium, it guarantees visibility and longevity in a way digital storage still struggles to achieve. Think of VHS tapes: they’ve degraded, the players have disappeared, and whole archives are lost. By comparison, a painting, even when cracked or darkened, remains legible, restorable, and transmissible across generations. So when I paint, I’m not just making an image; I’m choosing a medium that resists disappearance.

PES: You have lived in many different countries, how do those experiences of cultural immersion and estrangement surface in the visual and conceptual layers of your work?

CS: Living in different countries has made me acutely aware of how identity is not fixed but constantly dissolving and reforming. You carry fragments of language, gesture, and intimacy from one place to the next, shedding and accumulating layers like skins. This fluidity is mirrored in my paintings, where figures often appear padded or encased, melting or half-dissolved, suspended between categories.

When I lived in Beijing, I became hyper-aware of my own body as a marker of difference. During my daily bus rides and errands I didn’t experience myself as different until I caught my reflection in the window and saw an alien staring back. Blond hair, pale eyes, light skin. That estrangement came with its own contradictions. There was comfort in difference, but also the undeniable recognition of privilege: I could drift through that space with a kind of immunity, while others – the larger part of the world population – carried the daily weight of structural racism. Whiteness represents only a minority of the global population; it is neither a norm nor a standard for others to live by. Becoming aware of one’s own privilege—and the traces of racism within one’s own thinking—is a necessary beginning. To inhabit that contradiction can be unsettling, but it matters. I feel this body of work largely takes skin colour out of the equation and allows me to speak to more universal topics that may be relevant to anyone at some stage.

PES: How do you negotiate the balance between personal experience and universal themes in your paintings?

CS: I don’t try to separate the personal from the universal. My paintings often begin from lived experience, but I treat those moments as material that can shift and expand into broader conditions. In the Virtually Yours series, for example, the padded and encased figures carry traces of grief and intimacy, yet they also speak to how all of us navigate mediation, distance, and vulnerability today. I think the balance lies in letting the work remain open: it is never only about me, and never only about the universal, but always suspended in between.

PES: How do local art scenes, cultural geographies, and the networks of display shape what is visible and who is addressed? Do you find the work could be lost in translation?

CS: Yes and No. In Berlin the puffer jacket is what the baseball cap is in America: a uniform, not a fetish. Everyone wears those big black glossy coats through the endless winters. Straps, latex, vinyl belong to the city too, but what stayed with me was the sheen itself, that glossy black that always recalls the surface of the iPhone — cold, omnipresent, the portal through which so much of life now passes.

Even if those cultural markers do not always translate, I try to make work that unfolds on multiple levels. At first glance you might see figures embracing or fighting, then notice textures, contrasts, titles, the meaning I try to inscribe into each canvas. I want to make works I could live with for the rest of my life. Paintings that contain something I cannot fully grasp, that will mean something different to me ten or fifteen years from now. Like the box the pilot draws for the Little Prince, they withhold clarity so the imagination can keep moving.

The objects I depict are vessels. I try not to seal them shut, so that I can always ask: if this painting were real in another realm, what would I encounter if I skinned these forms? That question keeps me excited and a little anxious, as if I am afraid to discover what they truly hold.

PES: You’ve worked across painting, installation, writing, and AI collaborations. How do you envision the relationship between traditional mediums like oil on canvas and the rapid development of digital and machine-driven art practices?

CS: That is a difficult question, because what I see right now is a strong current of nostalgia in art, and that troubles me. By nostalgia I mean the insistence that art must look handmade in order to be authentic, as if visible brushstrokes or artisanal labor were guarantees of value. It is a romantic idea, but one that reproduces a very narrow model: the solitary genius in the studio, detached from questions of economy, infrastructure, or technological change. Historically, this model has been available only to those with security and privilege. For everyone else — women, minorities, artists without resources — it becomes exclusion disguised as purity.

My own practice pushes against that. I want painting to remain a valid contemporary medium, not because of its nostalgic aura, but because of its unique capacity to store and transmit sensations across time. At the same time, I engage with writing, installation, and digital media, because these forms expand the conversation and allow new ways of thinking about intimacy, mediation, and presence.

PES: Philosophically, do you view technology as a tool that alienates us from authentic experience, or as something that generates entirely new forms of intimacy worth embracing?

CS: I would say both. Technology alienates and connects at the same time. There are sparks of intimacy when you catch a friend mid-meme in a chat, or when FaceTime makes it possible for my mother and me to sustain a close relationship across distance. At the same time, so much of life is outsourced to us as end-users — travel apps, booking systems, endless contracts — that our hours are consumed by tasks disguised as efficiency.

Philosophically, though, I think technology is not just a tool we use, but part of what defines us as a species. Aside from our ability to cry tears, the drive to invent and advance technologies is the one thing that sets us apart from other animals. It is both our curse and our gift: the source of alienation, but also of entirely new forms of intimacy worth embracing.

Phillip Edward Spradley is an American writer, organizer, and producer, and the latest addition to Numero’s circle of contributors. He grew up wanting to be a dark wizard, but ditched the dream when he realized magic was officially dead.

Technically a bit internet-illiterate, Phillip is nonetheless obsessed with the collision of art, technology, and the messy brilliance of interdisciplinary collaboration. He’s organized a dozen exhibitions, produced thousands of cultural events, and has a soft spot for hardcore music and omakase dinners.

Phillip has worked his own programming magic for institutions such as Hauser & Wirth, the Smithsonian Institution, Yale University, and the National Arts Club, just to name a few.

For Numero, he caught up with artist Charlie Stein on the occasion of her recent exhibitions in Mallorca: The Real Thing at Centro Cultural Misericordia, Palma, and Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost at Kunsthalle CCA Andratx.

 

Credits
Interview by Phillip Edward Spradley

All Images courtesy of Charlie Stein

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