Copenhagen Fashion Week – Numéro Berlin https://www.numeroberlin.de Tue, 19 Aug 2025 12:56:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Inside IAMISIGO’s ‘Dual Mandate’: Bubu Ogisi‘s Vision at CPHFW https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/08/inside-iamisigos-dual-mandate-bubu-ogisis-vision-at-cphfw/ Fri, 15 Aug 2025 17:05:19 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=62895

IAMISIGO’s SS26 collection Dual Mandate reclaims a colonial phrase, transforming it into a personal philosophy: self-preservation and perception, protection and openness to be adorned and aware. It sees the body as a bio-electric landscape of body, mind, spirit and emotion, tuned through grounding fibres like cotton, sisal, raffia, and jute and radiant metals, glass, and plastics.

Using ancestral techniques like hand-weaving, chainmail forging, glass blowing, and fibre knotting, each piece carries dual energies: hardness and tenderness, stillness and motion, presence and prayer. Dual Mandate is a quiet revolution in perception, dressing for both the world we walk through and the one vibrating just beyond it.

We had a conversation with IAMISIGO’s creative director, Bubu Ogisi, following her presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week, this year’s Zalando Visionary Award winner, to discuss her inspiration, creative process and learn more about her vision.

This wasn’t about chasing a debut for it’s own sake, it was about arriving when the story, the work and the community were ready to meet the moment.
James Cochrane
Nicole Atieno: You’ve just unveiled your debut collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week, what emotions are you sitting with right now?

Bubu Ogisi: A mix of grounded gratitude and quiet exhilaration. This wasn’t about chasing a debut for it’s own sake, it was about arriving when the story, the work and the community were ready to meet the moment. Standing here under the Zalando Visionary Award, recognized for design excellence, social impact, and innovation, feels deeply affirming. It means the work of preserving ancient technologies and artisanal craft is resonating beyond our immediate cultural context.

Was there a moment during the show, maybe a look, a sound, or even a pause, where you felt the entire journey crystallize?

Yes, just before the final look, there was a pause where the soundtrack kind of fades out, everything went silent like the room held it’s breath. That was a moment where I became very aware of everyone who had contributed to IAMISIGO. All the fellow creatives, artisans, our friends and community. It felt like the space was holding the energy of the ancestors and communities whose stories and skills had carried us here.

Your collections often feel like living archives, how did you decide which parts of your heritage and research to bring forward this season?

SS26 draws from our archive of oral histories, ancient weaving, dyeing techniques and ritual adornment practices. I focused on elements that reflect cultural resilience, garments as vessels carrying knowledge across generations. These were paired with design interventions that honor the original craft, while introducing new forms and functions, keeping the tradition alive in a contemporary landscape.

It felt like the space was holding the energy of the ancestors and communities whose stories and skills had carried us here.
In SS26, textures and shapes seem to fluctuate between structure and fluidity. What does that tension represent for you?

It’s the meeting point of protection and possibility. Structure is our armor, built through centuries of refined technique; fluidity is the openness to innovation and reinterpretation. That tension is where ancient craft meets modern design thinking.

You’ve described your process as “energy architecture.” How did that concept guide the materials and silhouettes for this collection?

I see garments as containers for Time, Memory and Movement. This season, that meant constructing silhouettes using materials that carry spiritual and tactile resonance, woven cotton, raffia, sisal,  recycled hand crafted metal work, recycled plastics, while engineering them in ways that allow freedom of motion. It’s about building forms that hold cultural energy yet adapt to new contexts.

How did your time with artisan communities directly shape what we saw in Copenhagen?

Every texture came from a collaboration rooted in trust and shared purpose. These are not outsourced “techniques” but living traditions we are committed to preserving. Our work together is as much about economic empowerment and sustaining livelihoods as it is about creating beauty.

I see garments as containers for Time, Memory and Movement.
James Cochrane
The show felt like more than a runway, it was almost ceremonial. What rituals or symbolic gestures did you weave into the presentation?

We began with soundscapes from artisan workspaces, loom rhythms, dye vat splashes, bead taps, milliners, so the audience stepped into our ecosystem before the first look appeared. The model pacing echoed processional movement, transforming the runway into a ritual space where tradition and innovation could coexist.

You often speak about memory and ancestral teachings. How do these metaphysical concepts influence your design language for SS26?

They’re the blueprint. The cuts, negative spaces and layering draw on inherited knowledge systems that predate written records. By translating these into wearable forms, we keep those teachings alive, not in a museum but in motion, on bodies, in daily life.

Some garments carry an unpolished, raw quality. How important is it for you to leave traces of the maker’s hand visible?

It’s essential. Those traces are a form of authorship, they connect the wearer directly to the maker and the maker to an unbroken lineage of craft. In an industrialized system, those marks would be erased; we choose to amplify them.

Sustainability in your work goes beyond materials, it feels philosophical. How do you define it today?

For me, sustainability means the continuity of cultural ecosystems, passing on techniques, ensuring artisans can thrive, designing pieces that retain relevance and integrity over decades. It’s as much about social impact as it is about environmental responsibility.

How do you navigate the balance between personal storytelling and creating pieces that resonate universally?

By starting from the truth. When a story is deeply rooted, authentic enough to be specific, yet open enough for others to find connection through shared human themes like protection, celebration, and memory. For example, the shape of the runway for our show was a portal, linking worlds together – ancient and modern- telling stories that have passed through time.

Tradition is a living organism, it’s not frozen in time.
Your use of traditional craftsmanship alongside experimental techniques is striking. How do you decide when to honour tradition and when to push boundaries?

Tradition is a living organism, it’s not frozen in time. I listen to the craft: sometimes it demands absolute fidelity, other times it invites reinterpretation. That interplay is where innovation thrives without erasing the origin.

How has winning the Zalando Visionary Award shaped your path since January?

The award validated our belief that preserving ancient technologies and artisanal craft can be an engine for design innovation and social change. It gave us resources to invest in our artisan networks and the freedom to experiment without compromising cultural integrity.

We hope to be able to continue pushing African heritage techniques into new silhouettes and contexts.
James Cochrane
Has the support and network from Zalando opened creative or business possibilities you hadn’t considered before?

Yes, but Beyond financial support, it’s opened a global platform to tell our story, connected us to collaborators across disciplines and shown that innovation rooted in heritage has a powerful place in contemporary fashion.

When you think of the next chapter for IAMISIGO, what seed from this award do you most want to see grow?

We hope to be able to continue pushing African heritage techniques into new silhouettes and contexts. To continue deepening economic empowerment for artisan communities across all borders and to evolve ancient technologies into future-facing solutions, a kind of cultural preservation through reinvention.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK: NUMÉRO’S SS26 HIGHLIGHTS https://www.numeroberlin.de/2025/08/copenhagen-fashion-week-numeros-ss26-highlights/ Fri, 08 Aug 2025 15:15:06 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=62551
From established brands, to new-comers and even recents graduates in the field of Fashion and Textile Design – for these past five days Copenhagen Fashion Week has brought us a showcase of the most exciting talents in Nordic Fashion. These are our stand-out moments:

ALIS

What started as a small brand founded by two friends in the free town of Christiana, Copenhagen, has by now – after a few ups and downs – become a national spokesperson for the new generation . This season Alis is stepping into a new era, leaning more heavily into women’s wear and expanding on existing notions of street style – while still staying true to the Skateboarding culture and community that makes up the heart and roots of the brand.

SWEDISH SCHOOL OF TEXTILES

This year, sixteen students from the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås unveiled their recent graduation collections, simultaneously offering a glimpse of what’s current, and predicting a vision of what’s to come.

These looks reinterpreted traditions of garment making, by taking on a playful take on texture and translucency, from subtle layering to bold statements in shape and color.

We fell in love with Lan Krebs pleated, seamless jersey dresses and Zuzana Vrabelova’s bestiary collection that crafts a narrative of garments as independent organisms.

Zuzana Vrabelova BESTIARY
Lan Krebs JERSEY DIVERSITY
Lan Krebs JERSEY DIVERSITY

BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

This season, utility meets refinement in Baum und Pferdgarten’s newest derby-inspired collection: refined track-suits, rider jackets, A-line skirts, adorned with the occasional lace trim or bow.  These Garments integrate traditional elements of derby-jockey attire into elevated uniforms, while other looks refer to the classical attire of observing derby guests: Even the show itself was presented in a working stable, with selected horses included.

ROLF EKROTH

This year, the Refshaleøen Forest by Copenhagen set the scene for the newest collection of Finnish Design Label Rolf Ekroth collection. Titled „189 Days Later – Encore“, these seasons looks were a bold combination of clashing pattern and strong tailoring, with handpainted prints by Matilda Diletta, padded piping and a hefty dose of pockets. Through destruction and reassembly, Rolf Ekroth repurposes garment waste to shape the silhouettes of tomorrow.

MKDT STUDIO

 

Polished tailoring is kept partly unfinished, with raw edges, strong shoulders and loose but defined silhouettes. Inspired by two surreal architectural artists (The late Kay Sage and AI artist Jean Jaques Balzac) „Echoes of the Unknown“ asks us to reconsider the possibilities of the future by taking on a new, othered vision of MKDT’s own identity.

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MONEY, POWER, GLORY? LATIMMIER SS24 https://www.numeroberlin.de/2023/08/money-power-glory-latimmier-ss24/ Mon, 21 Aug 2023 14:17:56 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=39162 Go big or go home could be the motto of 35 year-old Finnish designer Ervin Latimer.

After working at 1017 Alyx 9SM under Matthew M. Williams and Heliot Emil, he launched his own brand Latimmier in 2022 at Pitti Uomo – not long before becoming part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s official schedule and new talent program. This month he showcased his latest collection in the Danish capital.

Lights, camera, action! Instead of an opening look for his SS24 collection, the creative director himself set foot on the runway. In the guise of his drag alter ego “Anna Conda” he performed a lip-sync to ‘Hey Big Spender’, which turned out to be the perfect attunement for what was to come afterwards.

“Positions of Power”

… is all about corporate masculinity and menswear in the corporate world; where elegant suits and crisp white shirts usually symbolize status and power, Latimmier tears down this facade, showcasing how fragile it is. He printed invoices on a suit, translated the 2008 market crash into knitwear-motifs, restricted movement by adding tight bandages around blazers and shredded parts of the seemingly perfect looks into pieces.

With Numéro Berlin he spoke about his new collection, sources of inspiration, masculinity and what’s next.
One year after your debut at Pitti Uomo you brought your drag alter ego back to the runway. How did it feel to open and close your own show?

It was a lot of fun. (Laughs). As our show was on the first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, we wanted to do something that kick-started things with a jolt of energy. We wanted to make sure that people remember us throughout the week. Drag isn’t a stunt or something that doesn’t relate to us or the collection though. It actually felt very natural, because this is how I found my approach to expressing identity with garments.

Your design story is also rooted in the queer legacy of ballroom. How did your time in New York and the city’s ballroom scene inspire your work?

So you know my dad is African American, my mom is Finnish and white. I was kind of longing for this connection with my African American roots in popular culture. One thing that I always found super fascinating was ballroom. Once I moved to New York, I could finally feel that energy and get the experience of being in a room full of people with similar identities and experiences – parts of that I really wanted to bring with me.

Masculine silhouettes play an important role in your designs. Nevertheless your brand is not a classic menswear brand, but for everyone. Can you explain your tagline “For the Performance of Masculinities”?

I’ve always been fascinated with the history of Western menswear, but I also knew that I didn’t want to restrict my designs to men only.

“It’s more about ‘performing’ masculinity and what kind of clothing can be used to do so.”
What does masculinity mean to you?

For me, it’s just a playground I use to discuss norms in society really, because so many of the norms that are inherited in our societies are based on traditional ideas of masculinity and patriarchy. With our work, we want to contribute to changing the way we approach not only gender, but norms in everyday life.

Masculinity is a huge topic in Martin Scorcese’s ‘Wolf of Wall Street’, which is a reference that accompanies your work. What makes this movie so inspirational for you?

I find it really intriguing, how it depicts masculinity. You have these chest pounding, red-faced men – really aiming for this money, power and glory type of life.

“It’s just super fascinating because it’s the total opposite of how I see the world.”
Can you highlight one standout piece from this collection and explain why it is special to you?

One would definitely be the mustard-colored strong shoulder blazer with shorts. It’s organza dyed with post-consumer waste coffee grounds and the print is made from our invoices that were shredded and scanned. Originally, it was this idea of making a suit out of my own misery; because hey, we’ll make a fucking suit out of it, if we have to. It also relates to the theme of the collection. For so many of these broker guys, it’s not about showing what’s real, it’s about showing ego and status with an expensive watch or luxurious shoes. We wanted to show what’s real. Another piece I really like is this black knit that has a red kind of line motif, which is depicting the stock value of the Lehman Brothers from the early 2000s to the 2008 market crash. It’s this classic rib, but then above the line, it’s mesh showing skin. The idea is, the less value you have, the more skin it’s showing. So the less value you have, the more exposed you are.

The SS24 collection is your third and last collection as part of CPHFW NEWTALENT program. What’s next?

We’re feeling really confident after this season – it’s just a matter of what we choose to do next. Do we want to do a show or do we maybe take a break and come back well rested and stronger in summer?

“We’re not sure yet, but whatever we do, we’ll make sure we’re noticed.”
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