DIOR–PEAK OF PLAYFUL ELEGANCE 

Designer Kim Jones found a way to reimagine the shapes of Christian Dior’s mid-1950s H Line and created a collection for men, being the ultimate love letter to the House’s original craftsmanship while having a modern twist that redefines masculinity on the runway. The color palette ranges from black, night blue, cream, and white to soft pink–which has been one of Dior’s chosen colors during the 50s, too.

Under the creative direction of Kim Jones, playful bows embellish the sleeves of boxy jackets, voluminous pants meet satin shirts, and masculine coats have an unusual encounter with delicate eye masks. The looks transport a strong evening vibe and remind of an endless night; one of the strongest looks is a night blue suit made from flowing fabric, embroidered with plenty of tiny beads, evoking a night sky full of stars or a dreamy rain.  

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK–SUPERNATURAL BEINGS ON THE RUNWAY 

Belgian fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck introduced his new collection with the lyrical words: “In my thoughtful state I dreamt of running through sunflower fields with my Alien Friends. New life among us, here to help make sense of it all!” This sums up the looks quite well, as aliens manage to appear on the Parisian runway–the models wear silicone fingers for an extra-terrestrial vibe, and alien eyes look straight from the garments to the audience. Somehow, Van Beirendonck manages to skillfully mix up high fashion with comic symbols, neon colors, and quirky prints to create a surprising runway show that stays in the head for a while. Oversized hats and 3D-printed pieces round up the looks and add a playful, highly modern dimension to the collection.

“I consider it my duty to keep pushing what is possible in fashion. I want future generations to know that no boundaries can stop creation. Only fear can,” explains Walter Van Beirendonck his aim when creating fashion, and indeed–he was fearless this time.  

FLY WITH ISSEY MIYAKE  

The FLY WITH IM MEN show is a true ode to freedom and spontaneity. Issey Miyake’s presentation at Paris Fashion Week breaks away entirely from the stiffness of traditional runway walks. Models running with a piece of cloth held high in their hands represent the brand’s interpretation of the spirit of a free mind. A moving installation by Japanese designer and artist Tokujin Yoshioka is placed on the runway, interpreting the merge of the robotic, modern world and traditional craftsmanship.

This approach runs through the entire IM MEN collection: expansive, organic silhouettes, soft pleats, and draping define the overall look. The loose-fitting clothes made of plenty of fabric have a garment-like appearance, and a cream-colored ensemble evokes the wide, head-covering habit of a nun. Each look is on the monochromatic side, which underlines the robe-like aesthetic. Also, a new innovative fabric has its first moment ever on a runway: Ultrasuede, a fully plant-based suede developed by Toray Industries, which can be cut without fraying and makes the ideal material for large coats that should be lightweight.  

WILLY CHAVARRIA–THE DUALITY OF A MEXICAN-AMERICAN IDENTITY  

For the 10th anniversary of Willy Chavarria, the designer with Mexican-American heritage presents his new show: Tarantula. Through his fashion, he aims to uplift the underrepresented and doesn’t avoid political themes. In a time when the relationship between Mexico and the USA is super fragile and affected by prejudiced decisions, Chavarria wants to give the Brown, Black, and Queer people a voice. He combines neo-Baroque fabrics such as velvet and colors such as Opulent Gold, Baroque Blue, and Majestic Plum for his new collection. On the runway, we see rosaries, red blossoms, Mexican hats, tapered, sprawling collars, and–typical for Willy Chavarria–broad, tailored shoulder parts. Following his aim to support a global identity and represent many kinds of humans, his models bring real uniqueness to the runway.  

SELF-MADE OPULENCE AT KIDSUPER 

Layers, volume, the ultimate material mix–this is the KidSuper collection. Under the title From a Place I Have Never Been, KidSuper’s creative head Colm Dillane showcases his endless creativity: “I like walking into the unknown—going to places I have never been, trying things I have never done, and fearlessly jumping into the unknown. The outcome is always uncertain—sometimes extraordinary, sometimes a lesson—but it’s always inspiring,” he stated.

And From a Place I Have Never Been really is extraordinary. Colm Dillane loses himself in details in the best possible way. From a tie embellished with keys and buttons to fabrics with finishings you have never seen before to belts that are artworks by themselves. The combination of different smooth and suede leather pieces creates an intriguing material surface, which in turn forms a two-piece outfit. Voluminous, layered puffer jackets transport you to a distant planet. This KidSuper collection is a creative masterpiece consisting of garments that you simply can’t get enough of. 

SAINT LAURENT MAKES OVERKNEES ADMIRABLE FOR MEN 

Saint Laurent, a pioneer in timeless elegance, surprises at Paris Fashion Week with an unusual synergy: over-knee boots made of black smooth leather. When paired with the brand’s typically classic suits, they create an entirely new look, especially when the fine wool fabric of the trousers is tucked into the boots. The usual signature elements—leather jackets and coats, checked blazers, ties, and trench coats—get a fresh, modern twist. A few looks take it even further by pairing the leather boots with leather pants, creating a full-leather look downwards from the waist. Among nuances of brown and greys, hints of salmon, warm yellow, and terracotta peek out from under the blazers. With this new collection, Saint Laurent definitely shows that while they continue to embody elegance in classic, tailored cuts, they are also open to unexpected combinations. 

SONGZIO BRINGS THE PICCADILL INTO THE PRESENT 

A piccadill is a historic collar from the 17th century that rises high on the neck, made from linen lace and a stiff layer to support it. It accentuates the face and was particularly worn by the noble people. A modern interpretation of this collar is now the signature piece of Songzio‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection Piccadill. At Songzio, the piccadill meets glossy leather and structured wintry fabrics. It encounters breeches that end below the knee and are voluptuously shaped, inspired by the trousers worn centuries ago. Still, Songzio has not merely created a collection, that’s just inspired by the past. The use of contemporary materials and the thoughtful development of elements combining the now and the past–for example, handcuffs reviving the collar’s shape–give this collection an avant-garde spirit. 

SACAI GETS WILD  

Sacai’s designer Chitose Abe glimpses into the wilderness for the collection Where The Wild Things Are. She uses heavy knitted as well as outdoor fabrics to create a modern, functional look for the colder seasons. Large pockets, puffer jackets, furry boots, and a strong focus on maximization go hand in hand with the collection’s title. A collaboration with workwear giant Carhartt WIP also originated clothes that complete the runway looks. Besides utility wear, Chitose Abe shows her ability to layer in a complex way: By folding, wrapping, and deconstructing some layers, she creates oversized looks and asymmetrical silhouettes. She doesn’t even stop at a blazer’s peak lapel—the inside of the double-layered collar is boldly presented to the audience of the fashion show. A little wild, indeed. 

COMME DES GARÇONS TAKES A STEP INTO A FANTASY WORLD  

At Comme des Garçons, viewers are regularly transported into a new little world—and this time is no different. For Paris Fashion Week, the brand presents a collection that feels like a journey into nature while simultaneously evoking modern, effortless street style. Moss-green, deconstructed two-piece suits made from delicate natural fabrics are paired with asymmetrical shirts and skirts, and hints of orange, bright red, and deep purple pop off in the looks.  

In this show, the eye first lingers on the detailed, layered outfits but soon shifts to the models’ heads, where floral-embellished hats and artfully draped turbans made of glossy satin or matte, airy fabrics take center stage. Finally, attention turns to the shoes–and they truly come from another world. Chunky boots with pronounced rubber soles curve upward at the front, making the sole visible from the front. This Comme des Garçons collection is a delight for anyone looking to challenge their visual habits. 

JUNYA WATANABE’S MEN PROUDLY GO BACK TO THE BASICS 

Besides all the extravagant shapes, never-before-seen fabrics, and boldly styled looks, menswear classics often fade into the background. But not at Junya Watanabe. Here, all the staples of casual menswear come together: plaid flannel jackets, straight-leg jeans, striped button-down shirts, leather jackets, and the occasional tie. Men’s all-time favorites for everyday wear may not seem groundbreaking on the runway, but they represent reality. And at Junya Watanabe, these classics still manage to captivate the audience—mainly because of the models, who showcase a broad spectrum of what “men” can be. Every single look from the current show could have been lifted straight off the streets, making this presentation stand out in the world of fashion shows that need to stand out with ever more extreme innovations. This collection brings together laid-back street style, classic lumberjack aesthetics, and smart casual looks—all presented in a way that feels strikingly authentic. 

CLARKS ORIGINALS x MIDNIGHT REINTERPRET THE WALLABEE SHOE 

Germany-founded fashion brand MiDNIGHT teamed up with British shoemaker Clarks to give the Wallabee a fresh design upgrade. The young clothing label and event host MiDNIGHT brings a fresh spirit to the collaboration with Clarks, a global business rich in tradition and established since its founding 200 years ago. A synergy between the use of leather and quilted polyester highlights creates the Wallabee’s new, interesting look and adds a slightly glossy finish to the upper. The shoe’s official release is on February 1st at the Soto Store in Berlin. Later, it can be purchased online at MiDNIGHT’s online shop from February 3rd. 

ZEGNA’S WINTER 2025 SHOW: VELLUS AUREUM 

Vellus Aureum, Latin for “Golden Fleece,” is a legendary artifact from Greek mythology, symbolizing the pursuit of an unattainable goal. Zegna reinterprets this concept as its aspiration to achieve unparalleled excellence in crafting the finest fabrics and garments. The House’s latest collection, bearing this symbolic title, showcases timeless tailored suits and coats made from the finest materials. 

Presented on a lush green lawn under the artistic direction of Alessandro Sartori, the collection highlights cashmere and cotton corduroy suits in an earthy color palette that perfectly complements the natural setting. Infused with a generous dose of Italian flair, the designs underline Zegna’s commitment to sophistication. Regarding this collection, Alessandro Sartori explained: “In this collection items are nonchalantly chosen and spontaneously mixed recounting an encounter of generations in the name of Italian style. The man I have in mind has raided a wardrobe in which pieces have been collected over the decades, for their emotional and material value. Working with washed wools and Vellus Aureum we have been able to transfer lived life into the garments.” 

RICK OWENS X RIMOWA DRAMATIZE THE SUITCASE  

Travel outfitter RIMOWA teamed up with Rick Owens, the fashion brand on everyone’s lips, to give the classic rolling suitcase a high-class upgrade. RIMOWA’s famous aluminium craftsmanship perfectly merges with Rick Owens’ dark and monolithic aesthetic, creating the RIMOWA Original Cabin Bronze suitcase. Each one of them is unique because of the patinated aluminium finish that never looks exactly the same. For the color, Rick Owens took inspiration from Giacometti’s and other artists’ bronze statues. The patina supports it to age beautifully and makes it a timeless statement piece for every trip and every destination. One perfect suitcase–that’s what Rick Owens wanted to create. “No matter how far or long, I only bring one carry-on,” he highlights, “I don’t need much, but I like my bare necessities to be as supernatural as possible.”  

Designer Michèle Lamy is the face of the campaign, combining her remarkable aesthetic with the roughness of a factory. The RIMOWA Original Cabin Bronze will be available from January 30th at select stores of the two brands, as well as online.  

MIU MIU REVEALS “DUETS”, THE SPRING/SUMMER 2025 CAMPAIGN 

The new Miu Miu campaign under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada takes you on a journey through the emotions of childhood, adulthood in today’s world, and the moments in between. As minimalistic as the setting and background may be, the models are captivating: Liu Haocun, Kayije Kagame, Sunday Rose Kidman Urban, Joey King, Lena Mantler, and Eliot Sumner show the variety of faces that represent the brand’s core. In coltish, simple outfits styled by Lotta Volkova, the protagonists play with shadows and instruments while surrendering to their vivid world of thoughts. The campaign’s art director Edward Quarmby gives them the freedom to express themselves very naturally, and photographer Lengua captured all the moments. Clothes-wise, DUETS is quintessentially Miu Miu: capturing the essence of feminine and boyish looks that every person can interpret differently, just as the models do.  

BLAUER X PIRELLI LAUNCH GENDERLESS CAPSULE COLLECTION  

Functionality wear brand Blauer met tyre manufacturer Pirelli to design a four-piece unisex outerwear capsule collection. For the design, they blur the lines between sport, practical outerwear, and premium garments. The result: a water- and windproof puffer jacket, a sleeveless puffer ideal for layered looks, a “2 in 1” parka consisting of a windbreaker and a removable padded inner, and a functional trench coat, the most elegant piece of this capsule. To quote Marco Maria Tronchetti Provera, who is working at Pirelli’s design department: “The partnership with Blauer represents a clear opportunity for us: to explore new expressive possibilities of our brand through apparel that puts the consumer in touch with the Pirelli world of emotions, identity and passion.”  

All styles come in the colors black and yellow and will be available from August in Blauer flagship stores, online, and in select boutiques worldwide.  

A COLORS SHOW FEATURING BERQ 

Berlin-based music platform COLORS showcases talented musicians online as well as offline. Recently, COLORS connected with German newcomer singer Berq, who has quickly reached a large, growing audience fascinated by his emotional music and thoughtful lyrics. Together they produced A COLORS SHOW, an artistic performance based on Berq’s song “Heimweg”. In front of an intense green backdrop, the singer performs his song and invites the viewers to empathize with the moment of coming back home and deciding where to go, alone or together, and what to expect for the rest of the night. His voice fills the plain stage in a captivating way, and about this unique experience stated the musician: “There’s an undeniable rawness to the experience, and the focus on your voice and presence is much sharper in the COLORS setup compared to other stages, where I’m rarely alone. It’s intense, but in the best way”.  

MONTBLANC UNVEILS NEW LEATHER COLLECTION 

For a fresh start this spring, Montblanc introduces its first leather goods collection of the year, featuring sleek monochrome designs that effortlessly complement seasonal essentials. The collection comes in three sophisticated shades: smoky blue—a muted, greyish light blue; intense cassis—a deep, rich purple; and cayenne—a warm, terracotta-inspired dark orange. Under the artistic direction of Marco Tomasetta, the bags showcase clean, minimalist silhouettes, making them versatile companions for everyday life. Montblanc’s latest leather collection is available now in boutiques and online.