CELINE – READY TO WEAR 

Michael Rider presented his striking debut collection as Creative Director of CELINE, marking a powerful return to the house. “Coming back has been incredibly emotional for me. And a complete joy,” he shared. Under his vision, CELINE reasserts its core values: quality, timelessness, and style – elusive concepts, often spoken about but rarely embodied with such clarity. Rider and his team worked to translate these ideals into a wardrobe that reflects attitude as much as identity. “I’ve always loved the idea of clothing that lives on,” he says, pieces that resonate beyond a single season, becoming part of a life, a memory, a history. 

With this first collection, Rider manages to capture both the utility and the fantasy of fashion – the now, the past, and what’s still to come.

SCHIAPARELLI – BACK TO THE FUTURE

Daniel Roseberry’s latest collection for Schiaparelli blurs the boundaries between past and futurism with a haunting black-and-white palette. Inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s departure from Paris in 1940, the collection reimagines a world on the edge, poised between elegance and upheaval. Gone are corsets; in their place, sculptural silhouettes and surrealist trompe l’oeil textures evoke both restraint and release.

The entire show can be conceived as a surrealist trompe l’oeil, from the makeup to the fabrics, and fantasy pieces that dazzle: A reworked “Apollo” cape in black diamanté starbursts, a 3D-embroidered “Squiggles and Wiggles” dress, and the dreamlike “Eyes Wide Open” gown with iris cabochons and a silk tulle train.

“It’s too easy to romanticize the past. It’s too easy to fear the present,” say the show’s notes. This is couture that resists nostalgia, asking instead how archival memory can shape a post-technological future: One free of screens, shaped by hands, and grounded in imagination.

GEORGES HOBEIKA – THE NEW ORDER

Georges Hobeika is presenting its newest collection „The New Order“ This Bezeichnung is wegweisend in the presentation. In heavy and uncertain times we are gifted a momentum of stillness by reminding us of true craftsmanship  while Beauty agiert as a werkzeug to create and resell.

The collection is finding its roots in elegance while boldly staying true to tradition and its ambiguity between weakness and strength. While masterfully honoring Couture Fashion and adding value to it, the pieces stand out as individuals – grounded and resolute. 

After 30 years of existence the House of Georges Hobeika shows once again how true couture is desirable, timeless and never not relevant. 

RAHUL MISHRA – BECOMING LOVE

In Sufism, love grows through seven steps: attraction, infatuation, letting go, respect, devotion, obsession, and finally, the loss of self into something bigger. It starts gently and grows until there’s only stillness.This collection traces that journey. The clothes flow like lines in a love story, inspired by Gustav Klimt’s art and brought to life with traditional Indian embroidery. Rahul Mishra’s team of almost 2000 fashion workers uses age-old techniques with silk threads, pearls, beads, and sequins on fine fabrics like organza, tulle, velvet, and satin. Every piece is shaped by careful metalwork too. Each garment honors slow, skilled work and the people behind it, sharing India’s artistry with the world.

CHANEL – FALL-WINTER 25/26 HAUTE COUTURE 

With this collection, CHANEL invites us to wander through a refined pastoral dream. Staged in the Salon d’Honneur at the Grand Palais and envisioned by Willo Perron, the show recalls the quiet elegance of Gabrielle Chanel’s salons at 31 rue Cambon. Inspired by the fresh breeze of English countrysides and Scottish moors, the garments consist of reimagined winter classics through a lens of freedom and natural harmony, featuring natural shades of ecru, ivory, brown, green and black. 

Tweed is, of course, a central element: Transformed into featherlight mohair, bouclé mimicking sheepskin, and illusionary faux fur. Soft, earthy hues in ecru, green, plum, and black echo the landscape’s palette. Wheat motifs, long symbolic of abundance in Chanel’s lexicon, are woven into chiffon, buttons, and embroidery, while floral details and gilded lace nod to the sunlight breaking through grey skies.

At the end, the cold English day turns into sunlight, magnifying its reflections with jewel-buttons, embroidery, gold and silver ennobled lace and a flounced dress in orange tones lamé. This is couture rooted in nature, crafted with clarity and emotion, basically modern feminine elegance with room to breathe. 

ROBERT VAN DER KEMP – THE CALL OF THE WILD

Robert van der Kemp forms a personal homage to nature and human craftsmanship with his haut couture collection the Call of the Wild. In Collaboration with a collective of Brazilian Indigenous artisans and friend Thayná Caiçara and inspired by the lush vibrancy of the Amazon rainforest and its winged inhabitants, the collection evokes the beauty of both Earth’s flora and fashion’s flamboyant. Materials are reimagined: discarded fabrics become majestic corsets, jungle-dyed silks, sculptural plissés, and art collages stitched from feathers, beads, trinkets, and memories. Each of the 32 looks stands as a one-of-a-kind creation.  Telling stories through the act of upcycling and celebrating of real-world beauty and resilience.In an era of excess, RVDK reminds us that luxury can be ethical, rebellious, and radiant. A couture that’s transforming the discarded into the divine.

GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ – NOIR SÉDUISANT

Far from being monotonous, black offers an entire spectrum of nuances and possibilities while seemingly only being one shade. Giorgio Armani has always been drawn to it, as it represents synthesis, graphic purity that transforms every silhouette into a timeless mark. In this collection, the designer captures black’s most elegant, nocturnal, and seductive side, while once again exploring the dialogue between masculine and feminine.

Introduced by fluid garments with vivid embroidered accents, black takes the runway in a series of reinterpretations of the tuxedo and tailcoat, in sculptural jackets worn on bare skin or blazers styled with a white shirt, bow tie, and slim-fit trousers. Graced by black reoccurring hats, the models do look like they came straight out of classic and elegant fashion illustrations.

ROBERT WUN – BECOMING

Robert Wun makes a powerful statement with his Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Becoming. This body of work is an ode to the quiet, often unseen ritual of getting dressed. Those delicate moments when we shift from private to public, gathering courage as each layer goes on. Inspired by the beauty of the incomplete and the almost-ready, Wun plays with unfinished edges and fluid shapes that echo the in-between space of transformation. Becoming is more than clothing; it’s an emotional narrative about how what we wear shapes who we are on life’s significant days. With masterful cuts and thoughtful storytelling stitched into every look, Robert Wun invites us to witness not just fashion, but the deeply human act of becoming something new.

VICTOR & ROLF – ANGRY BIRDS

Victor & Rolfs newest collection reinterprets the concept behind their FW98–99 show: presenting two versions of the same garment, yet never revealing the same silhouette. Each set was shown first as an exaggerated form, stuffed with colorful faux feathers, followed by its raw counterpart, leaving an aftertaste of luxury and fantasy.

The feathers, symbols of wealth and refined taste, are not mere accessories here, but architectural elements, essential in sculpting the couture silhouettes and in exploring the tension between presence and absence.

„Angry Birds“ offers us exuberant spectacle followed by its softened shadow. The show serves as a powerful reminder that quietness and exaggeration can not only coexist but also elevate each other’s beauty.

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA – ARTISANAL COLLECTION 2025

Glenn Martens presents a deeply architectural and art-historic collection for Maison Margiela, drawing on the gothic verticality and sculptural austerity of medieval Flanders and the Netherlands. The show was held in le Centquatre, which reflects the approach of archaic times and atmosphere. Of course, also the garments took deep inspiration from Gothic structures such as towers or saintly figures of church facades and also draped fabrics that create optical illusions and elongations of the physique. 

With reinterpretations of flemish floral leather wallpapers and Dutch still life paintings as overlays, embossed fabrics or 3D collages, this narration is continued. Brushstroke-inspired trompe l’œil pieces nod to Symbolist painter Gustave Moreau, while lace and veiled drapery mimic skin and marble sculpture. As for materials, the house went to vintage leather, costume jewellery, plastic and even metal boxes, that are transformed into couture details and face coverings. The iconic Tabi boot is reborn with claw toes and wedge plastic sandals. 

Set against palatial paper collages and a deconstructed Smashing Pumpkins soundtrack, the show is a haunting, tactile reflection on art, memory, and metamorphosis.

RAMI AL ALI – GUARDIANS OF LIGHT

Marking a historic debut on the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar, Syrian-born, UAE-based designer Rami Al Ali unveils Guardians of Light – The Living Craft of Damascus, a powerful and personal ode to heritage and artistry.

Rami Al Ali’s couture vision is steeped in the rich visual language of Damascus: Courtyards, painted ceilings, and mother-of-pearl inlay, rendered in brocade, sequin, and hand-embroidery. Drawing from the carved wood of Al-Azm Palace and the geometric harmony of Khan As’ad Pasha, Rami Al Ali reimagines the quiet grandeur of Damascus in couture form. Historic homes like Bayt Nizam and Bayt Farhi inspire silhouettes where memory becomes material: brocades gleam with embroidery, sequins echo Iznik tiles, and beading reflects mother-of-pearl inlay. Each piece is a talisman, each veil a whispered verse, an ode to heritage, elevated through the craft of couture.

This is not nostalgia, it is a reclamation of craftsmanship as living heritage and guardianship of that more so. With his debut, Al Ali assumes the role of designer and guardian, bringing Syria’s artistic soul into the haute couture conversation with quiet power and grace.

GERMANIER – LES JOUEUSES

„Les Joueuses“ is Kevin Germanier’s way of serving bold looks while playfully inviting us to forget about hard times. The garments are full of polka dots, leopard prints, stripes and certainly not lacking in color.

The show is set against a backdrop of brightly shining balloons, enhancing the celebration of play, color, and the endless possibilities of imagination. Beyond the visual satisfaction, the set once again reflects Germanier’s commitment to sustainability: the balloons were previously rejected due to flaws, feathers were recycled from past collections, and the entire set design will be reborn next season, fully upcycled into sequins.

Germanier’s latest collection marks a clear step outside of his comfort zone. It’s vibrant, full of light and joy, while true craftsmanship is evident in every piece. You can truly feel the designer’s deeply rooted desire to redefine couture — while staying true to the essence of Germanier.

DIOR–PEAK OF PLAYFUL ELEGANCE 

Designer Kim Jones found a way to reimagine the shapes of Christian Dior’s mid-1950s H Line and created a collection for men, being the ultimate love letter to the House’s original craftsmanship while having a modern twist that redefines masculinity on the runway. The color palette ranges from black, night blue, cream, and white to soft pink–which has been one of Dior’s chosen colors during the 50s, too.

Under the creative direction of Kim Jones, playful bows embellish the sleeves of boxy jackets, voluminous pants meet satin shirts, and masculine coats have an unusual encounter with delicate eye masks. The looks transport a strong evening vibe and remind of an endless night; one of the strongest looks is a night blue suit made from flowing fabric, embroidered with plenty of tiny beads, evoking a night sky full of stars or a dreamy rain.  

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK–SUPERNATURAL BEINGS ON THE RUNWAY 

Belgian fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck introduced his new collection with the lyrical words: “In my thoughtful state I dreamt of running through sunflower fields with my Alien Friends. New life among us, here to help make sense of it all!” This sums up the looks quite well, as aliens manage to appear on the Parisian runway–the models wear silicone fingers for an extra-terrestrial vibe, and alien eyes look straight from the garments to the audience. Somehow, Van Beirendonck manages to skillfully mix up high fashion with comic symbols, neon colors, and quirky prints to create a surprising runway show that stays in the head for a while. Oversized hats and 3D-printed pieces round up the looks and add a playful, highly modern dimension to the collection.

“I consider it my duty to keep pushing what is possible in fashion. I want future generations to know that no boundaries can stop creation. Only fear can,” explains Walter Van Beirendonck his aim when creating fashion, and indeed–he was fearless this time.  

FLY WITH ISSEY MIYAKE  

The FLY WITH IM MEN show is a true ode to freedom and spontaneity. Issey Miyake’s presentation at Paris Fashion Week breaks away entirely from the stiffness of traditional runway walks. Models running with a piece of cloth held high in their hands represent the brand’s interpretation of the spirit of a free mind. A moving installation by Japanese designer and artist Tokujin Yoshioka is placed on the runway, interpreting the merge of the robotic, modern world and traditional craftsmanship.

This approach runs through the entire IM MEN collection: expansive, organic silhouettes, soft pleats, and draping define the overall look. The loose-fitting clothes made of plenty of fabric have a garment-like appearance, and a cream-colored ensemble evokes the wide, head-covering habit of a nun. Each look is on the monochromatic side, which underlines the robe-like aesthetic. Also, a new innovative fabric has its first moment ever on a runway: Ultrasuede, a fully plant-based suede developed by Toray Industries, which can be cut without fraying and makes the ideal material for large coats that should be lightweight.  

WILLY CHAVARRIA–THE DUALITY OF A MEXICAN-AMERICAN IDENTITY  

For the 10th anniversary of Willy Chavarria, the designer with Mexican-American heritage presents his new show: Tarantula. Through his fashion, he aims to uplift the underrepresented and doesn’t avoid political themes. In a time when the relationship between Mexico and the USA is super fragile and affected by prejudiced decisions, Chavarria wants to give the Brown, Black, and Queer people a voice. He combines neo-Baroque fabrics such as velvet and colors such as Opulent Gold, Baroque Blue, and Majestic Plum for his new collection. On the runway, we see rosaries, red blossoms, Mexican hats, tapered, sprawling collars, and–typical for Willy Chavarria–broad, tailored shoulder parts. Following his aim to support a global identity and represent many kinds of humans, his models bring real uniqueness to the runway.  

SELF-MADE OPULENCE AT KIDSUPER 

Layers, volume, the ultimate material mix–this is the KidSuper collection. Under the title From a Place I Have Never Been, KidSuper’s creative head Colm Dillane showcases his endless creativity: “I like walking into the unknown—going to places I have never been, trying things I have never done, and fearlessly jumping into the unknown. The outcome is always uncertain—sometimes extraordinary, sometimes a lesson—but it’s always inspiring,” he stated.

And From a Place I Have Never Been really is extraordinary. Colm Dillane loses himself in details in the best possible way. From a tie embellished with keys and buttons to fabrics with finishings you have never seen before to belts that are artworks by themselves. The combination of different smooth and suede leather pieces creates an intriguing material surface, which in turn forms a two-piece outfit. Voluminous, layered puffer jackets transport you to a distant planet. This KidSuper collection is a creative masterpiece consisting of garments that you simply can’t get enough of. 

SAINT LAURENT MAKES OVERKNEES ADMIRABLE FOR MEN 

Saint Laurent, a pioneer in timeless elegance, surprises at Paris Fashion Week with an unusual synergy: over-knee boots made of black smooth leather. When paired with the brand’s typically classic suits, they create an entirely new look, especially when the fine wool fabric of the trousers is tucked into the boots. The usual signature elements—leather jackets and coats, checked blazers, ties, and trench coats—get a fresh, modern twist. A few looks take it even further by pairing the leather boots with leather pants, creating a full-leather look downwards from the waist. Among nuances of brown and greys, hints of salmon, warm yellow, and terracotta peek out from under the blazers. With this new collection, Saint Laurent definitely shows that while they continue to embody elegance in classic, tailored cuts, they are also open to unexpected combinations. 

SONGZIO BRINGS THE PICCADILL INTO THE PRESENT 

A piccadill is a historic collar from the 17th century that rises high on the neck, made from linen lace and a stiff layer to support it. It accentuates the face and was particularly worn by the noble people. A modern interpretation of this collar is now the signature piece of Songzio‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection Piccadill. At Songzio, the piccadill meets glossy leather and structured wintry fabrics. It encounters breeches that end below the knee and are voluptuously shaped, inspired by the trousers worn centuries ago. Still, Songzio has not merely created a collection, that’s just inspired by the past. The use of contemporary materials and the thoughtful development of elements combining the now and the past–for example, handcuffs reviving the collar’s shape–give this collection an avant-garde spirit. 

SACAI GETS WILD  

Sacai’s designer Chitose Abe glimpses into the wilderness for the collection Where The Wild Things Are. She uses heavy knitted as well as outdoor fabrics to create a modern, functional look for the colder seasons. Large pockets, puffer jackets, furry boots, and a strong focus on maximization go hand in hand with the collection’s title. A collaboration with workwear giant Carhartt WIP also originated clothes that complete the runway looks. Besides utility wear, Chitose Abe shows her ability to layer in a complex way: By folding, wrapping, and deconstructing some layers, she creates oversized looks and asymmetrical silhouettes. She doesn’t even stop at a blazer’s peak lapel—the inside of the double-layered collar is boldly presented to the audience of the fashion show. A little wild, indeed. 

COMME DES GARÇONS TAKES A STEP INTO A FANTASY WORLD  

At Comme des Garçons, viewers are regularly transported into a new little world—and this time is no different. For Paris Fashion Week, the brand presents a collection that feels like a journey into nature while simultaneously evoking modern, effortless street style. Moss-green, deconstructed two-piece suits made from delicate natural fabrics are paired with asymmetrical shirts and skirts, and hints of orange, bright red, and deep purple pop off in the looks.  

In this show, the eye first lingers on the detailed, layered outfits but soon shifts to the models’ heads, where floral-embellished hats and artfully draped turbans made of glossy satin or matte, airy fabrics take center stage. Finally, attention turns to the shoes–and they truly come from another world. Chunky boots with pronounced rubber soles curve upward at the front, making the sole visible from the front. This Comme des Garçons collection is a delight for anyone looking to challenge their visual habits. 

JUNYA WATANABE’S MEN PROUDLY GO BACK TO THE BASICS 

Besides all the extravagant shapes, never-before-seen fabrics, and boldly styled looks, menswear classics often fade into the background. But not at Junya Watanabe. Here, all the staples of casual menswear come together: plaid flannel jackets, straight-leg jeans, striped button-down shirts, leather jackets, and the occasional tie. Men’s all-time favorites for everyday wear may not seem groundbreaking on the runway, but they represent reality. And at Junya Watanabe, these classics still manage to captivate the audience—mainly because of the models, who showcase a broad spectrum of what “men” can be. Every single look from the current show could have been lifted straight off the streets, making this presentation stand out in the world of fashion shows that need to stand out with ever more extreme innovations. This collection brings together laid-back street style, classic lumberjack aesthetics, and smart casual looks—all presented in a way that feels strikingly authentic. 

The Dior Summer 2025 collection, centered on craftsmanship and the art of creation, is inspired by South African ceramist Hylton Nel. Kim Jones, Dior’s Men’s Artistic Director, continues to evolve craftsmanship by blending luxury and functionality. The collection reinterprets workwear and women’s haute couture archives, emphasizing utility, longevity, and heritage.

Sculptural and practical elements borrow from ceramics in form and finish, merging humble and noble in the tailoring. Functionality shines through haute couture techniques, with Dior ateliers’ exceptional craftsmanship. Rounded volumes in tailoring and outerwear add a sensuous touch. Footwear features traditional clogs, and bags blend canvas with raffia or leather. This collection celebrates global and local craftsmanship, highlighting artisans’ skill and pride.

In the tailoring and outerwear of the Dior Summer 2025 collection, rounded volumes create sensuous cuts. The haute couture inspiration is reimagined this season, sparked by an unreleased 1958 Yves Saint Laurent sketch for a coat, now brought to life and influencing other looks. The scarf collar motif, inspired by Saint Laurent’s “Négatif” from Fall-Winter 1960, is rendered in ceramic through a unique, months-long technique. Knitwear features joyful drawings, prints, and ceramic closures inspired by Hylton Nel’s world.

Accessories blend playfulness and practicality with precision and elegance. Shoes take on traditional workwear forms, like clogs, transformed into boots or closed shoes made from beechwood and calf leather. The iconic Saddle bag remains central, its construction softened with its curves echoed in other pieces.The collection’s materials showcase their nobility in bags with durable canvas accented by raffia or leather. Cloche hats, crafted by Stephen Jones in collaboration with Earth Age, are hand-crocheted by South African artisans and adorned with ceramic beads in Paris, symbolizing a global-local collaboration. The Dior Summer 2025 collection highlights the virtuosity of artisans, embodying values and symbols that unite and inspire.

The latest FW23 collection focuses on the essence of home, featuring suede-finished technical fabrics, lustrous washed satins, and linen-bonded material with a towel-like surface for a cozy sensation. Each piece in the collection represents a transformative journey, exploring the contrast between swift decisions to move and the deliberate process of physical transition, encouraging reflection on the parts of ourselves left behind in this dual dance of momentum and introspection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri sees “Big Aura” as the embodiment of haute couture’s unique and adaptable nature, referencing Walter Benjamin’s concept of aura.

Chiuri explores Dior’s history, focusing on the La Cigale dress of 1952, blurring art and life. The collection features moiré fabric in gold, white, gray, burgundy, and green, recreating geometric lines from La Cigale in coats, skirts, and layered outfits. Black velvet dresses and a feather cape add grace, while embroidered details evoke ancient poems and nature. In this collection, Chiuri captures the chromatic and constructive essence of haute couture, creating a powerful and performative experience that expresses the transformative spirit of imagination.

Olivier Rousteing’s collection draws inspiration from sapeurs, showcasing a fusion of styles that spans a century of African-American musical genius. Collaborations with artists like Prince Gyasi and Ibby Njoya contribute vibrant prints, reinforcing Balmain’s commitment to luxury and challenging misconceptions about black culture in the world of fashion. This collection marks a new chapter, highlighting Balmain’s trailblazing position in the industry.