DIOR–PEAK OF PLAYFUL ELEGANCE 

Designer Kim Jones found a way to reimagine the shapes of Christian Dior’s mid-1950s H Line and created a collection for men, being the ultimate love letter to the House’s original craftsmanship while having a modern twist that redefines masculinity on the runway. The color palette ranges from black, night blue, cream, and white to soft pink–which has been one of Dior’s chosen colors during the 50s, too.

Under the creative direction of Kim Jones, playful bows embellish the sleeves of boxy jackets, voluminous pants meet satin shirts, and masculine coats have an unusual encounter with delicate eye masks. The looks transport a strong evening vibe and remind of an endless night; one of the strongest looks is a night blue suit made from flowing fabric, embroidered with plenty of tiny beads, evoking a night sky full of stars or a dreamy rain.  

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK–SUPERNATURAL BEINGS ON THE RUNWAY 

Belgian fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck introduced his new collection with the lyrical words: “In my thoughtful state I dreamt of running through sunflower fields with my Alien Friends. New life among us, here to help make sense of it all!” This sums up the looks quite well, as aliens manage to appear on the Parisian runway–the models wear silicone fingers for an extra-terrestrial vibe, and alien eyes look straight from the garments to the audience. Somehow, Van Beirendonck manages to skillfully mix up high fashion with comic symbols, neon colors, and quirky prints to create a surprising runway show that stays in the head for a while. Oversized hats and 3D-printed pieces round up the looks and add a playful, highly modern dimension to the collection.

“I consider it my duty to keep pushing what is possible in fashion. I want future generations to know that no boundaries can stop creation. Only fear can,” explains Walter Van Beirendonck his aim when creating fashion, and indeed–he was fearless this time.  

FLY WITH ISSEY MIYAKE  

The FLY WITH IM MEN show is a true ode to freedom and spontaneity. Issey Miyake’s presentation at Paris Fashion Week breaks away entirely from the stiffness of traditional runway walks. Models running with a piece of cloth held high in their hands represent the brand’s interpretation of the spirit of a free mind. A moving installation by Japanese designer and artist Tokujin Yoshioka is placed on the runway, interpreting the merge of the robotic, modern world and traditional craftsmanship.

This approach runs through the entire IM MEN collection: expansive, organic silhouettes, soft pleats, and draping define the overall look. The loose-fitting clothes made of plenty of fabric have a garment-like appearance, and a cream-colored ensemble evokes the wide, head-covering habit of a nun. Each look is on the monochromatic side, which underlines the robe-like aesthetic. Also, a new innovative fabric has its first moment ever on a runway: Ultrasuede, a fully plant-based suede developed by Toray Industries, which can be cut without fraying and makes the ideal material for large coats that should be lightweight.  

WILLY CHAVARRIA–THE DUALITY OF A MEXICAN-AMERICAN IDENTITY  

For the 10th anniversary of Willy Chavarria, the designer with Mexican-American heritage presents his new show: Tarantula. Through his fashion, he aims to uplift the underrepresented and doesn’t avoid political themes. In a time when the relationship between Mexico and the USA is super fragile and affected by prejudiced decisions, Chavarria wants to give the Brown, Black, and Queer people a voice. He combines neo-Baroque fabrics such as velvet and colors such as Opulent Gold, Baroque Blue, and Majestic Plum for his new collection. On the runway, we see rosaries, red blossoms, Mexican hats, tapered, sprawling collars, and–typical for Willy Chavarria–broad, tailored shoulder parts. Following his aim to support a global identity and represent many kinds of humans, his models bring real uniqueness to the runway.  

SELF-MADE OPULENCE AT KIDSUPER 

Layers, volume, the ultimate material mix–this is the KidSuper collection. Under the title From a Place I Have Never Been, KidSuper’s creative head Colm Dillane showcases his endless creativity: “I like walking into the unknown—going to places I have never been, trying things I have never done, and fearlessly jumping into the unknown. The outcome is always uncertain—sometimes extraordinary, sometimes a lesson—but it’s always inspiring,” he stated.

And From a Place I Have Never Been really is extraordinary. Colm Dillane loses himself in details in the best possible way. From a tie embellished with keys and buttons to fabrics with finishings you have never seen before to belts that are artworks by themselves. The combination of different smooth and suede leather pieces creates an intriguing material surface, which in turn forms a two-piece outfit. Voluminous, layered puffer jackets transport you to a distant planet. This KidSuper collection is a creative masterpiece consisting of garments that you simply can’t get enough of. 

SAINT LAURENT MAKES OVERKNEES ADMIRABLE FOR MEN 

Saint Laurent, a pioneer in timeless elegance, surprises at Paris Fashion Week with an unusual synergy: over-knee boots made of black smooth leather. When paired with the brand’s typically classic suits, they create an entirely new look, especially when the fine wool fabric of the trousers is tucked into the boots. The usual signature elements—leather jackets and coats, checked blazers, ties, and trench coats—get a fresh, modern twist. A few looks take it even further by pairing the leather boots with leather pants, creating a full-leather look downwards from the waist. Among nuances of brown and greys, hints of salmon, warm yellow, and terracotta peek out from under the blazers. With this new collection, Saint Laurent definitely shows that while they continue to embody elegance in classic, tailored cuts, they are also open to unexpected combinations. 

SONGZIO BRINGS THE PICCADILL INTO THE PRESENT 

A piccadill is a historic collar from the 17th century that rises high on the neck, made from linen lace and a stiff layer to support it. It accentuates the face and was particularly worn by the noble people. A modern interpretation of this collar is now the signature piece of Songzio‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection Piccadill. At Songzio, the piccadill meets glossy leather and structured wintry fabrics. It encounters breeches that end below the knee and are voluptuously shaped, inspired by the trousers worn centuries ago. Still, Songzio has not merely created a collection, that’s just inspired by the past. The use of contemporary materials and the thoughtful development of elements combining the now and the past–for example, handcuffs reviving the collar’s shape–give this collection an avant-garde spirit. 

SACAI GETS WILD  

Sacai’s designer Chitose Abe glimpses into the wilderness for the collection Where The Wild Things Are. She uses heavy knitted as well as outdoor fabrics to create a modern, functional look for the colder seasons. Large pockets, puffer jackets, furry boots, and a strong focus on maximization go hand in hand with the collection’s title. A collaboration with workwear giant Carhartt WIP also originated clothes that complete the runway looks. Besides utility wear, Chitose Abe shows her ability to layer in a complex way: By folding, wrapping, and deconstructing some layers, she creates oversized looks and asymmetrical silhouettes. She doesn’t even stop at a blazer’s peak lapel—the inside of the double-layered collar is boldly presented to the audience of the fashion show. A little wild, indeed. 

COMME DES GARÇONS TAKES A STEP INTO A FANTASY WORLD  

At Comme des Garçons, viewers are regularly transported into a new little world—and this time is no different. For Paris Fashion Week, the brand presents a collection that feels like a journey into nature while simultaneously evoking modern, effortless street style. Moss-green, deconstructed two-piece suits made from delicate natural fabrics are paired with asymmetrical shirts and skirts, and hints of orange, bright red, and deep purple pop off in the looks.  

In this show, the eye first lingers on the detailed, layered outfits but soon shifts to the models’ heads, where floral-embellished hats and artfully draped turbans made of glossy satin or matte, airy fabrics take center stage. Finally, attention turns to the shoes–and they truly come from another world. Chunky boots with pronounced rubber soles curve upward at the front, making the sole visible from the front. This Comme des Garçons collection is a delight for anyone looking to challenge their visual habits. 

JUNYA WATANABE’S MEN PROUDLY GO BACK TO THE BASICS 

Besides all the extravagant shapes, never-before-seen fabrics, and boldly styled looks, menswear classics often fade into the background. But not at Junya Watanabe. Here, all the staples of casual menswear come together: plaid flannel jackets, straight-leg jeans, striped button-down shirts, leather jackets, and the occasional tie. Men’s all-time favorites for everyday wear may not seem groundbreaking on the runway, but they represent reality. And at Junya Watanabe, these classics still manage to captivate the audience—mainly because of the models, who showcase a broad spectrum of what “men” can be. Every single look from the current show could have been lifted straight off the streets, making this presentation stand out in the world of fashion shows that need to stand out with ever more extreme innovations. This collection brings together laid-back street style, classic lumberjack aesthetics, and smart casual looks—all presented in a way that feels strikingly authentic. 

The Dior Summer 2025 collection, centered on craftsmanship and the art of creation, is inspired by South African ceramist Hylton Nel. Kim Jones, Dior’s Men’s Artistic Director, continues to evolve craftsmanship by blending luxury and functionality. The collection reinterprets workwear and women’s haute couture archives, emphasizing utility, longevity, and heritage.

Sculptural and practical elements borrow from ceramics in form and finish, merging humble and noble in the tailoring. Functionality shines through haute couture techniques, with Dior ateliers’ exceptional craftsmanship. Rounded volumes in tailoring and outerwear add a sensuous touch. Footwear features traditional clogs, and bags blend canvas with raffia or leather. This collection celebrates global and local craftsmanship, highlighting artisans’ skill and pride.

In the tailoring and outerwear of the Dior Summer 2025 collection, rounded volumes create sensuous cuts. The haute couture inspiration is reimagined this season, sparked by an unreleased 1958 Yves Saint Laurent sketch for a coat, now brought to life and influencing other looks. The scarf collar motif, inspired by Saint Laurent’s “Négatif” from Fall-Winter 1960, is rendered in ceramic through a unique, months-long technique. Knitwear features joyful drawings, prints, and ceramic closures inspired by Hylton Nel’s world.

Accessories blend playfulness and practicality with precision and elegance. Shoes take on traditional workwear forms, like clogs, transformed into boots or closed shoes made from beechwood and calf leather. The iconic Saddle bag remains central, its construction softened with its curves echoed in other pieces.The collection’s materials showcase their nobility in bags with durable canvas accented by raffia or leather. Cloche hats, crafted by Stephen Jones in collaboration with Earth Age, are hand-crocheted by South African artisans and adorned with ceramic beads in Paris, symbolizing a global-local collaboration. The Dior Summer 2025 collection highlights the virtuosity of artisans, embodying values and symbols that unite and inspire.

The latest FW23 collection focuses on the essence of home, featuring suede-finished technical fabrics, lustrous washed satins, and linen-bonded material with a towel-like surface for a cozy sensation. Each piece in the collection represents a transformative journey, exploring the contrast between swift decisions to move and the deliberate process of physical transition, encouraging reflection on the parts of ourselves left behind in this dual dance of momentum and introspection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri sees “Big Aura” as the embodiment of haute couture’s unique and adaptable nature, referencing Walter Benjamin’s concept of aura.

Chiuri explores Dior’s history, focusing on the La Cigale dress of 1952, blurring art and life. The collection features moiré fabric in gold, white, gray, burgundy, and green, recreating geometric lines from La Cigale in coats, skirts, and layered outfits. Black velvet dresses and a feather cape add grace, while embroidered details evoke ancient poems and nature. In this collection, Chiuri captures the chromatic and constructive essence of haute couture, creating a powerful and performative experience that expresses the transformative spirit of imagination.

Olivier Rousteing’s collection draws inspiration from sapeurs, showcasing a fusion of styles that spans a century of African-American musical genius. Collaborations with artists like Prince Gyasi and Ibby Njoya contribute vibrant prints, reinforcing Balmain’s commitment to luxury and challenging misconceptions about black culture in the world of fashion. This collection marks a new chapter, highlighting Balmain’s trailblazing position in the industry.

The collection serves as a manifesto on the regenerative power of the body, satirizing a modern world that normalizes existence, and each piece embodies the rebirth of an entire generation, addressing the pressures of appearance and the pursuit of imposed perfection. The collaboration with UGG promotes self-care and personal protection, incorporating elements from the UGGextreme line, while the partnership with PSYCOM supports mental health awareness, and collaboration with PERS, a vegan skincare brand, prepares models’ skin for the runway with a simple routine.