Sneaker – Numéro Berlin https://www.numeroberlin.de Thu, 09 Nov 2023 17:03:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 IN CONVERSATION WITH DEMON W/ ALBERTO DEON https://www.numeroberlin.de/2023/11/in-conversation-with-demon-w-alberto-deon/ Thu, 09 Nov 2023 17:03:05 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=41716 Numéro Berlin talked to Alberto Deon, diving deep into his creative world and visionary project, Demon.

From the origins of the project’s enigmatic name to the cross-pollination of artistic craftsmanship and avant-garde technology, Deon’s narrative unfolds with serendipity and authenticity. Delving into his Italian heritage and the rich shoewear tradition of Montebelluna, we wanted to explore whether Demon represents a disruption or a continuation of this legacy. Alberto’s journey from an architectural background to the realm of fashion is a testament to his interdisciplinary approach and unwavering commitment. As we trace his experiences, including a pivotal encounter with Matthew Williams, we gain insights into the formation of Demon as a brand and the unique styles it has introduced, such as Poyana, Vipara, and Carbonaz.

If you were to give an elevator pitch about the project Demon, what would it be?

It really depends on the type of pitch we’re discussing. In general, I would introduce the project as an example of cross-pollination between artistic craftsmanship and avant-garde technology, an amphibious project situated at the intersection of industrial heritage and post-Internet European culture.

How did you come up with the name Demon?

Interestingly, I didn’t come up with the name; it was actually given by my grandfather. In its early stages, it was called “Demont,” where “De” stands for my family’s last name, and “mont” stands for our hometown, Montebelluna. In the late sixties, my grandfather had to change the name as another local brand, “Garmont,” pointed out the similarity in name endings. Thus, the final “T” was dropped, and here I am, 60 years later, explaining that this has nothing to do with spooky esoteric references. So it’s just an uncanny circumstance. Serendipity. “Demon” is obviously a powerful word with outstanding evocative power. So all things considered, I am extremely grateful that this happened.

How do you relate to the shoewear tradition of Montebelluna and that of Made in Italy in general? Do you see your brand as an element of disruption or continuity?

I think Demon is a manifestation of different threads I pulled from my educational background, including studying ancient Greek and Latin philosophy from an early age and the international context I was exposed to early on (I studied at Berkeley during my senior year in high school). So, hopefully, it is an element of genuine continuity, one of the rare links between post-internet culture and Italian rural-industrial contexts. I trace this process back to the idea of “Webnacularism,” a concept I came up with in my MA thesis “Less Is Gore.”

How do you feel about being associated with the Gorpcore movement?

I’m pretty neutral about the association. I didn’t seek it, and I never intended to create a Gorpcore project. In fact, I don’t think Demon is a Gorpcore project, although there is an undeniable derivative aspect. As a matter of fact, I think this is also related to serendipity, as in recovering my grandfather’s brand, I had to confront that specific context, which was then appropriated by contemporary culture under the Gorpcore umbrella. Nonetheless, I’m pretty sure the Gorpcore community sees this project as an alien presence, a weirdo, ultimately the Ugly Duckling of Gorpcore.

How does your architectural background influence the creative process?

Studying architecture influenced the way I approach Demon and my career in general. The architectural obsession with the “context” and the complexities behind it, the multifaceted implications that go beyond design and involve geopolitical, sociological, historical, and technological considerations. It’s a rich and complex perspective, always suspended between choosing aesthetics over function or vice versa.

Can you tell us about your experience at the Studio of Claudio Silvestrin? I know he has worked for many years with Kanye West and is considered one of the godfathers of minimalism in architecture. Is minimalism something you strongly relate to?

I believe the experience at Claudio’s studio contributed to teaching me the value of building a brand around oneself, the possibility of honing your own practice along with a body of work that grows with you. It also highlighted the importance of personality as a significant determining factor in one’s career and taught me not to be afraid of being myself, unapologetically. I didn’t plan to join CSA; I stumbled into it. Nonetheless, I think it’s been one of the most formative experiences I could hope for.

From architecture to fashion—the only name that comes to mind who made this “leap” is Gianfranco Ferré. Can you somehow relate to this icon?

I get this question a lot, but people usually think of Virgil. In general, I believe that an architecture education provides a holistic understanding of aesthetics. Also, Ferré started out from accessories, in his case, it was jewelry. To be completely honest, it’s challenging for me to draw a parallel with Ferré, as I feel his universe has physiologically slipped out of my generation’s spectrum. So I can mostly try to imagine what it must have been like in that era. His generation of designers was much more down-to-earth, practical, and market-oriented compared to the previous one, which was driven by unfettered creativity. I hope Milan in the next decade will resemble the Milan of the ’70s (Ferré’s era), with a constellation of creatives and practices reshaping the culture from the ground up, redefining the overarching values of Italian taste and combining post-Internet ubiquitous culture with the ability to remain calm in the face of what appears as eternal acceleration.

Can you tell us about your encounter with Matthew Williams? Was it a pivotal moment for you?

In my own experience, it’s been a canon event. At the point of the encounter, I had been roaming around looking for a stepping stone that could have allowed Demon to at least reach the surface. I had this feeling of a huge crystal ceiling above me that I couldn’t break. So when I reached out to Matthew, I was very determined to make something out of it. I think Matthew’s approval of the project gave me the boost I needed for the next leap of faith. Which was Slam Jam.

Can you introduce us to the key styles of Demon? Poyana, Vipara, and Carbonaz?

Poyana was the very first brick I laid in the foundation of Demon. It took me almost two years of refinement to reach the current stage of the product. A lot of work with artisans was involved to achieve the ideal angles, weight, structure, and cosmetics, with graphics undergoing several rounds of tweaking. Carbonaz and Vipara came more naturally, as a consequence of the extensive work we did on Poyana. All three of them belong to this large territorial narrative, from the vernacular nomenclature to the execution and processing.

Will Demon expand into other product categories?

Certainly, successfully expanding into other categories is a dream goal for me. However, I believe it’s crucial to lay the foundations first. Building a statuary precedent, in my case, footwear.

I see you are developing an almost curatorial approach to content on IG. Are you aiming to transform Demon into a platform?

Nowadays, more than ever before, building a brand has become a quintessentially eclectic endeavor. I believe being able to pull different threads from the arts is key to generating culture. When it comes to Demon’s IG feed, I am looking for ways to cross-pollinate content creation with content curation. The key is being able to put diverse content into one single bucket (IG in this case) without it feeling scattered and senseless. The vision needs to be as wide and unfettered as possible, but the execution needs to flow seamlessly. Ultimately, I want to build something that I’d enjoy following if I stumbled onto it, a chimera of blog-inspired research page anchored by physical products.

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ON OUR RADAR https://www.numeroberlin.de/2023/09/on-our-radar-25/ Mon, 11 Sep 2023 08:35:27 +0000 https://www.numeroberlin.de/?p=39476 Numéro Berlin’s weekly collection of the most exciting news about fashion, music, and simply everything that is on our radar. And here is why it should be on yours as well!

INTRODUCING BOTTEGA VENETA’S NEW SNEAKER, ORBIT
Introducing Orbit by Bottega Veneta, the perfect unisex trainers, blending casual style and meticulous design. Comfortable and versatile, they redefine classic trainers with ergonomic innovation and signature mesh. Available in Women’s sizes (Silver/White, Silver/Parakeet) and Men’s sizes (Black, Silver/White, Silver/Parakeet). Step into the fashion future with Orbit.

KYLIE JENNER PRESENTING ACNE STUDIOS‘ FALL/WINTER 2023 DENIM CAMPAIGN
Acne Studios unveils its new denim campaign, starring Kylie Jenner in oversized silhouettes and distressed looks from the Fall/Winter 2023 Denim Collection. Denim has deep roots in Acne Studios, as it was founded by gifting 100 jeans. Creative Director Jonny Johansson calls denim the axis of one’s wardrobe, reinvented season after season.
As Jonny Johansson puts it, “Denim is one of those rebellious yet practical materials that always speak to me. It’s also a very sustainable material in the sense that you wear it year after year. I see denim as the axis for everything else in your wardrobe – all your other clothing revolves around denim. It’s an infinitely important material that I like to reinvent every season.”
Kylie Jenner’s connection with the brand began at the Spring/Summer 2023 show in Paris, and her influence is undeniable. Photographer Carlijn Jacobs captures Kylie’s self-confidence, often portraying her as two interacting personas, symbolizing her “unfiltered self-love.” Explore the FW23 Denim Collection and accessories, now available worldwide and online, and step into a world where denim reigns supreme.

ASICS AND HAL STUDIOS COMPLETE THEIR TRILOGY COLLABORATION WITH THE GEL-1130TM MK III ‘GLACIER’ SNEAKER
ASICS and HAL STUDIOS® conclude their trilogy with the GEL-1130TM MK III “GLACIER” sneaker, inspired by glacier landscapes. This sneaker merges ASICS tech with HAL STUDIOS®‘ “Design Thinking.” It embraces maximal minimalism, highlighting retro-futuristic aesthetics through contrasting textures. HAL STUDIOS® launches the collaboration on August 16th, followed by a global release on August 25th, on asics.com and select retailers. This trilogy’s culmination celebrates innovation, nature, and artistic collaboration. The GEL-1130TM MK III “GLACIER” is a testament to their journey’s fusion of art, tech, and the natural world.

OLIVER PEOPLES AND KHAITE PRESENT THEIR SECOND COLLABORATION
The new models 1998C – a sharp Cat-Eye silhouette, 1968C – an elongated glamorous, oval shape, and 1977C – an oversized, angular frame with a double bridge and rounded curves – are handcrafted in Italy and come in a red lacquer case in Khaite’s Signature Red. For this new chapter of the KHAITE x Oliver Peoples Collab, photographer Daniel Arnold captured Mila van Eeten in the style of a reporter. From various distances and angles, the campaign images turn the viewer into a voyeuristic perspective, following Mila van Eeten through a cinematic landscape reminiscent of the New York from ‘Fatal Attraction’ and ‘A Perfect Murder’.

SALOMON FW23 ODYSSEY ELMT ADVANCED
Odyssey ELMT ADVANCED explores the fine lines between the outdoors and the city. Featuring an innovative two-part upper and a protective gaiter that keeps the soft cosy interior shielded from the elements. Sensifit™ brings precise foothold, and the chassis construction stability and cushioned comfort. We focused on maximum step-in comfort using soft, tactile, and cosy materials that hug your feet. An inner Sensifit™ provides additional precise foothold.

MCM – THE PIONEER OF CREATING ICONS, 27 YEARS OF CINDY CRAWFORD
Magic 27! Since 1996, supermodel Cindy Crawford has regularly graced the screens for MCM. For the AW23 campaign, we were able to secure the ICON once again. In front of the lens of star photographer Juergen Teller, MCM underscores the brand’s new direction and positions itself at the top with top partners. A brand between heritage and modernism – along with the new logo and a new design leadership, MCM is fully embracing the luxury direction.

1017 ALYX 9SM REVEALS FOUR NEW REFERENCES AND A UNIQUE PIECE IN COLLABORATION WITH AUDEMARS PIGUET, DESIGNED BY MATTHEW M. WILLIAMS
Audemars Piguet and 1017 ALYX 9SM come together in a striking collection of minimalist gold timepieces, available in sizes from 37 to 42 mm. Their shared mastery of design and horology shines through these pieces, meticulously crafted in 18-carat gold and powered by advanced movements. It’s a collaborative celebration of craftsmanship and aesthetics.

 

IN COLLABORATION WITH THE BRAND THAT BEARS HER NAME, ANN DEMEULEMEESTER HAS PERSONALLY CREATED HER FIRST-EVER FRAGRANCE
 “A”, the highly artisanal perfume captures in scent the expression she forgot through three decades in fashion: an atmosphere suspended between romanticism and modernism, and strength and fragility.
Now available

MEET “THE LONDON EDITION” 7 FOR ALL MANKIND´S NEW AW23 PREMIUM DENIM COLLECTION, PRESENTED BY MODEL AND STYLE ICON GEORGIA MAY JAGGER
The campaign was photographed in London by Sonia Szóstak and showcases premium denim and ready-to-wear pieces that blend “Modern Attitude” and “Street Sensibility.”
Georgia May Jagger, the brand’s spokesperson, says, “Denim has always been an essential part of my personal style, and it is an honor to be the face of a brand that celebrates individuality while creating an extraordinary range of fashion-forward pieces that cater to the modern global citizen.”

NEW COLLABORATION BETWEEN SACAÏ AND CARHARTT WIP
With the aim of creating styles rooted in utility clothing, Sacaï and Carhartt WIP have worked together to create a collection for men and women that combines the quality of Carhartt WIP’s fabrics and materials with Sacaï’s renowned designs. The collaboration will be available from 8 September.

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