Achilles Ion Gabriel
S.S. Daley
Guess Jeans
Guess Jeans
Neudeutsch
OOR STUDIO Photography by Driu & Tiago Styling Götz Offergeld
OOR STUDIO

DEBUTS, A FABULOUS COMEBACK AND NEW GERMAN WAVE

The start of the fashion year 2024 was once again celebrated at the Pitti Uomo in Florence, arguably the most important platform for men’s fashion and accessories.

First launched in 1972, this event attracts professionals from the fashion industry every year, offering a wide range of events. In addition to the exhibition booths and displays, there are also fashion shows, presentations, and other events where the latest collections are unveiled. In total, 832 brands, of which 46% are foreign, presented their fashion, with essential figures of the fashion scene such as designers S.S. Daley and Achilles Ion Gabriel. A special highlight was the project “Neudeutsch,” curated by Julian Daynov, featuring the new Berlin brand OOR Studio. Let’s take a closer look at what we’ve seen saw this January’s Pitti Uomo! 

Achilles Ion Gabriel

The Pitti Uomo is often a starting point and launching pad for many young designers. One of the most exciting newcomers was the show by Camper’s Creative Director, Achilles Ion Gabriel, featuring his eponymous label. The Finnish shoe designer presented a collection that was modern and diverse, infused with a bit of grunge, a western vibe, and a sense of wide-eyed wonder. Models strutted down the runway in large black contact lenses, oversized suits, leather pieces, cargo pants, denim, negligees, and lace tops in bleached colors. Boots in ash and sky-blue tones complemented the looks, adding the finishing touch to the cowboy aesthetic. The showcased wolf prints are a nod to Achilles’ Lapland roots, and the “Go fuck yourself” print knit was originally painted by a friend’s daughter for Achilles. What also caught the eye were the black belts that had been danced through, doubling as straps for bags. Following this spectacular debut, the brand will also present its collection during the Paris Men’s Fashion Week later in January. The promising debut leaves us eager for more, and it remains exciting to see what else Achilles Ion Gabriel has in store.

Guess Jeans

Guess Jeans and Florence have a long history, with GUESS Europe starting in Florence in 1993, followed by the opening of the first European Guess store in 1994. It’s no wonder that the internationally renowned brand chose Pitti Uomo to present “the next 40 years of denim.“ A comprehensive exhibition showcases GUESS‘s pivotal role in revolutionizing the fashion industry, particularly with the popularization of Stonewash Jeans in 1981. The “Stone to Air” installation introduces the innovative GUESS AIRWASH™ technology, positioning GUESS JEANS at the forefront of environmentally conscious innovation. Guests were able to explore the Denim Lab, gaining insights into the GUESS AIRWASH™ process and the global launch that was set to happen. The kickoff celebration, hosted by Nicolai Marciano, featured a festive cocktail evening and dinner at Vecchia Bettola. Industry luminaries and trendsetters, including Luka Sabbat, Sita Abellan, Kai Isiah Jamal, Ama Lou, and others, gathered to celebrate this milestone in GUESS JEANS history.

S.S. Daley

S.S. Daley’s standout show at Pitti Uomo 105 on January 11 marked a new era for the brand. The 27-year-old designer showcased a fresh, and liberating collection. Hosted in the Salone dei Cinquecente of Palazzo Vecchio, the show’s British boarding school-inspired looks contrasted beautifully against the Mannerist artworks. The narrative, drawn from E.M. Forster’s “A Story of A Panic,” revolved around a man’s trip to Italy, culminating in a whimsical transformation of attire. Key pieces included a nightshirt with a painted fish design and a yellow fishing coat with a suede collar, complemented by a hat. Prints were inspired by vintage wallpaper, featuring embroidered florals and a tailcoat with trompe l’oeil, blending into a trench coat hybrid. Earlier that day, news broke that Harry Styles, a long-time brand enthusiast, became a minority shareholder in S.S. Daley. Described as a “natural culmination” of their relationship, this partnership aims to grow the brand into a modern British heritage house. Steven Stokey-Daley, known for his work at Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford, has been on a successful trajectory since his BA from Westminster Fashion Design in 2020. His London Fashion Week debut, featuring Sir Ian McKellen and winning the LVMH Prize, solidified his rising status. With the recent investment and successful Florence show, S.S. Daley’s future looks promising.

Neudeutsch

Not only a highlight from the German perspective at this year’s Florence Pitti Uomo was the ‘Neudeutsch’ project curated by Julian Daynov. The trend expert brought together 20 brands from Germany, including brands like Avenir, Budde, Equality Perfumes, Frnkow, Haderlump, MARKE, Ofttt, and OOR Studio. Neudeutsch establishes a platform encompassing bags, perfumes, art, and fashion. The German creations were well received and even the legendary critic Suzy Menkes came and praised them. Daynov remarked, ‘Just like in society in Germany as a whole, a lot is currently happening in the German design scene.’The Pitti Uomo has been considering providing a platform for new German design for some time, as explained by Antonio Cristaudo, Chief Commercial and Development Officer of the trade show organizer Pitti Immagine. Now, the fair has found the right partner in Daynov, who has also served as a buyer for the US luxury department store Saks Fifth Avenue and is active as a consultant for brands, content creator, and trend forecaster.

Particularly exciting and positively noted were the creations of OOR Studio.

The new brand by Götz Offergeld, publisher and founder of OOR Studio, and Mirko Borsche, the internationally acclaimed art director behind Bureau Borsche, known for working with brands from Supreme to Balenciaga, aims to inject fun back into the fashion scene. OOR Studio’s AW24 apparel collection encapsulates a fusion of heritage, youth culture, and the sheer joy of fashion. The brand seeks to redefine fashion as a bold statement, steering away from ego or status-centric associations. Breaking down established boundaries, OOR Studio encourages a mindset shift toward questioning conventional structures. The collection revives classics from diverse subcultures, injecting a sense of fun and whimsy back into design. With an emphasis on quality and craftsmanship, the result is a vibrant yet restrained collection that in their first lookbook has been beautifully captured by the infamous photography duo Driu & Tiago.

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