LEVER COUTURE: “Anatomy of Identity”
LEVER COUTURE presented a striking experience at the iconic Palais de Tokyo with the debut of its latest collection, “Anatomy of Identity”, conceived by Ukrainian-born designer Lessja Verlingieri. Known for her sculptural couture and cinematic silhouettes, Verlingieri offered a body of work rich in emotional depth and visual poetry.
“Born in Ukraine, shaped by Germany, and now based in Los Angeles – this collection reflects the layers of identity I carry. Anatomy of Identity is about stitching together all these fragments into something whole, honest, and alive. It holds parts of all the places that formed me – Ukraine, Germany, LA. It’s about belonging everywhere and nowhere at once, and turning that in-between space into beauty.” – Lessja Verlingieri
“Anatomy of Identity” is an exploration of self-construction through couture – how we build who we are, stitch by stitch, choice after choice. The show interrogates the tension between vulnerability and power, with each piece revealing (and concealing) fragments of identity: gender, culture, trauma, beauty, and defiance.
The show opened with a powerful dance performance by Ukrainian first soloist ballerina Katja Khaniukova of the English National Ballet, whose hauntingly beautiful solo embodied themes of transformation, resilience, and identity. Her performance set a deeply emotional tone — a tribute to strength through vulnerability and the storytelling power of movement. The immersive experience was further elevated by custom music composed by I Monster, featuring the enigmatic and emotionally charged track “Who Is She?”, which enveloped the audience in a soundscape of memory, mystery, and mood.
Creative direction was led by Sina Braetz, a longtime collaborator of the brand. Braetz’s curatorial approach unified choreography, sound, light, and space into one living narrative – transforming the runway into a visceral and poetic exploration of self.
With “Anatomy of Identity”, Lessja Verlingieri invites the audience into a layered and intimate examination of the self – dissecting structure, emotion, and the beauty that exists within contradiction. The collection unveiled intricately wrought garments that merged futuristic technique with delicate craftsmanship, remaining true to Lever Couture’s signature balance of innovation and elegance.
Soft Green Mesh: Lightweight and ethereal, this fabric flows like air in the construction of Lever Couture’s dresses. It creates transparency and softness — a sheer veil that feels barely there.
Gold Fringe: Dynamic and bold, the fringe adds movement, richness, and a touch of drama. It captures light and energy with every step.
Silver Swarovski Embroidered Stones: Delicate yet dazzling. Hand-applied crystals shimmer subtly, adding a refined sparkle and a sense of sophisticated luxury.
Nude Sequins: Neutral tones with a soft shimmer – sequins that echo skin and glow softly under light, creating depth and sensuality.
Black Sculptures: Strong and grounded. These structured elements contrast with the lighter textures, adding edge and modern minimalism.
Cream Waben Mesh: A honeycomb-like texture that feels architectural and sculptural. It adds volume and pattern without heaviness.
This collection speaks of a quiet but determined and committed confidence. A tension between reveal and conceal. These creations speak to those who understand the power of contrast – soft but not fragile, bold but not loud.
“Lessja Verlingieri’s collection was about shedding layers and recreating new ones that not only perfectly embrace the female body but also speak to her soul.” – Sina Braetz
It was about the power of craft and the passion behind true artistry. It doesn’t need much to speak to its observer, as both its intention and execution are on point.
This is what we tried to communicate with the show concept: a spiritual reminder of the light we set free when we let go. It takes immense strength and endurance – at times it feels like the pain will kill you – but you will always be rewarded for being a savage, for being bold even when you’re scared to the core.
‘Anatomy of Identity’ is about finding your way back to your true self, to the voice that exists beyond all the noise. We all go through similar struggles and share the same emotional truths. This show celebrated not only the beauty of haute couture and craftsmanship but also every single light-and-love warrior in our crazy world.