DIOR’S REVIVAL

Jonathan Anderson’s debut Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Dior is a vocal is refined, sculptural, and undeniably dandy. Set within a velvet-lined space inspired by Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie, the show honored timeless elegance and restraint, with classic house codes : Bar jackets, tailcoats, waistcoats reimagined through precise tailoring and quiet innovation. Floral embroideries, delicate Diorette charms, and poetic touches paid homage to Christian Dior’s enduring love of flowers, while accessories adorned with literary references added subtle layers.

Beneath the polished surfaces and tailored silhouettes lies a sense of play. Cargo shorts pair with frock coats, chino trousers soften rigid structures, and floral flourishes bloom against a palette grounded in history. Anderson’s Dior finds power in understatement, drawing on heritage while sculpting something fresh and deeply imaginative. It’s a dandyism rooted in intellect, where style emerges from restraint, detail, and a quiet celebration of elegance.

OFFICE HOURS AT SAINT LAURENT

Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, designed by Anthony Vaccarello, introduces a fresh, sculptural take on office wear, where relaxed ease meets bold structure. Set within the serene halls of Paris’s Bourse de Commerce, the collection plays with volume and balance: sharply padded shoulders taper to flowing waists, while flexible trenches and billowy trousers hang like living sculptures. Drawn from a soothing palette of sand, pool blues, ochre, and moss, the looks channel camaïeu tonalities.

Key to the collection is a sophisticated approach to colour blocking: oversized shirts in bright orange or navy are precisely juxtaposed with narrow trousers, all punctuated by crisp ties tucked low for an intriguing, off‑duty dandyism. The result is office wear reimagined, structured, relaxed, quietly confident where each piece floats rather than clings, and presence is asserted through restraint. It’s a tactile ode to modern masculinity, proving elegance thrives in thoughtful proportion and shade.

LOVE TAKES THE CENTER STAGE AT RICK OWENS

Rick Owens’ SS26 men’s collection, titled Temple, unfolded as a raw, gothic ritual, a sensual celebration of finality, rebirth, and blunt beauty. Presented just across from his retrospective Temple of Love at Palais Galliera, the show merged his enduring aesthetic of Los Angeles sleaze and European refinement with a newly softened tone. Models emerged drenched from a central fountain at Palais de Tokyo, drenched and ghostlike, evoking themes of purification and vulnerability.

Crafted in heavyweight Tuscan leather and shimmering silk taffeta, the pieces were slashed, spiked, and strapped in sculptural silhouettes that revealed as much as they armored. Voluminous shorts and open-toed sneakers reinforced a post-human softness, while references to Suicide’s raw electronic sound and nostalgic knitwear reissues from early collaborator Terry-Ann Frencken injected a personal, emotional charge. It was Owens at his most organic and sensual, his vision of human sculpture rendered not in marble, but in flesh and movement.

JUST A PERFECT DAY AT JULIAN KLAUSNER’S DRIES VAN NOTEN MENSWEAR DEBUT 

For Julian Klausner, creative director of Dries Van Noten, his debut menswear collection was all about a return to the brand’s core: a love letter to its identity. Traditional, yet gently subverted, the collection embraced the familiar while inviting surprise: classic codes were reshaped and restyled, infused with bold colour combinations that offered a youthful charge. Menswear silhouettes borrowed fluidly from womenswear, proposing something both refined and disarming.

The iconic DVN sneaker made its return, now reinvented in new textures and hues, from pastel satin to red suede, paired with tone-on-tone socks to frame shorter silhouettes. Accessories evoked memory and intimacy: a lover’s ring worn as a necklace, shells threaded with gold wire, pockets filled with nostalgia.

The collection captured the tender feeling of a romantic summer day winding down: trousers rolled, feet in sand, and the quiet weight of seashells and memories gathered along the way.

A STROLL THROUGH THE CITY WITH HERMÈS

Hermès’ Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, crafted under the discerning eye of Véronique Nichanian, balances between elegance and ease. The collection blends sharp tailoring featuring structured jackets with broad shoulders and high-waisted woven leather trousers, with relaxed, sporty pieces like sleeveless tops and roped sandals. A serene palette of coffee, slate, taupe, and beige creates a camaïeu effect that feels both sophisticated and accessible, while featherlight silks and subtle zigzag or silver hardware accents bring a tactile refinement to the ensemble.

There’s a graceful athleticism to Hermès SS26: pieces feel impeccably polished yet inviting for the modern office or a leisurely city afternoon. The colour-blocked knitwear, open-weave textures, and bandanas add an undercurrent of sporty nonchalance. This refined, relaxed collection proves that sporty elegance doesn’t require compromise, it thrives in meticulous craftsmanship, sharp silhouettes, and an unwavering commitment to understated luxury.

CRAFT IN MOTION WITH IM MEN

On June 26, 2025, IM MEN unveiled its Spring Summer 2026 collection DANCING TEXTURE at the Fondation Cartier in Paris by showing a poetic fusion of fashion and the pioneering ceramic artistry of Shoji Kamoda. Inspired by Kamoda’s richly textured forms and innovative spirit, the collection translates his contemporary ceramic art into wearable pieces.

We see layered textiles, sculptural silhouettes, and intricate techniques echoing the subtle power of his ceramics. Highlights include the scale-like UROKOMON series, silver-foiled GINTO FLAT garments, eco-conscious FISHING NET NYLON coats, and the architectural ENGRAVE and EARTH designs that turn ready-to-wear into living landscapes. Completing the vision, IM MEN collaborates with ASICS for ISSEY MIYAKE FOOT: HYPER TAPING, blending creative design and advanced sportswear technology. Together, the collection celebrates the quiet surprise, tactile depth, and boundless possibilities of human craftsmanship.

A RITUAL IN TAILORING WITH COMME DES GARÇONS

Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS26 show in Paris felt less like fashion week and more like a ritual. Inside a sweltering, temazcal-like room, Kawakubo summoned the energy of a shaman to guide us toward “peace, love, and fraternity.” The “Not Suits, But Suits” concept turned traditional tailoring inside out: suits were dissected, collaged and reimagined. Massive baseball caps, braided wigs and oxford shoes grounded the surreal energy, echoing the show’s spiritual undertone.

Chants and guttural hums filled the heat-heavy space, amplifying the almost mystical intensity. Comme des Garçons doesn’t follow trends – it creates new dimensions. This season, Kawakubo asked us to question structure, abandon logic and dress like we’re ready to change the world.

LOUIS VUITTON: FROM PARIS TO INDIA

For Spring/Summer 2026, Louis Vuitton explores the contemporary echoes of Indian sartorial codes through a global lens. In creative dialogue with Studio Mumbai, the collection unfolds as an architectural and sensory study of fabric, light, and movement. Pharrell Williams channels the refined spirit of Indian dandyism, where precision tailoring meets a sun-drenched palette, merging it with the Maison’s heritage of craftsmanship and travel.

Fluid silhouettes, rich textures, and hand-worked details reflect a deep engagement with materials and their stories. Cloth becomes a medium of connection: between city and nature, tradition and innovation, Paris and the wider world. More than an aesthetic gesture, the collection suggests a shared sensibility, one shaped by curiosity, respect and the idea that elegance can be both rooted and free.