“IT CAN FEEL ALMOST RELIGIOUS” JEREMY SCOTT IN CONVERSATION WITH HENDRIK LAKEBERG

AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT MOSCHINO, JEREMY SCOTT TRANSLATED THE NOISE OF THE MOMENT INTO CLEAR, WITTY FORMS. THE RESULT WASN’T JUST A NEW WAY OF LOOKING; IT WAS A SHIFT IN HOW WE THINK – PLAYFUL OBJECTS THAT KEEP FAITH WITH COMPLEXITY.

 

 

HENDRIK LAKEBERG: THE 90S NOSTALGIA IS STILL GOING STRONG. IT WAS ALSO THE DECADE THAT FORMED YOUR THINKING. SO, WHEN YOU MOVED TO PARIS IN 1996 WITH ALMOST NOTHING, YOU STILL HAD THIS STRONG URGE TO CREATE. WHAT WAS THAT – SURVIVAL, REBELLION, IMAGINATION, ESCAPISM?

JEREMY SCOTT: IT FELT LIKE A FIRE INSIDE ME AND A SECRET I COULDN’T KEEP. MAYBE A DASH OF SURVIVAL – BUT NOT IN THE USUAL SENSE. I HAD TO EXPRESS MYSELF, TO SHARE MY VISION. WITH NO OTHER OUTLET, I USED MY BODY: HOW I LOOKED, WHAT I WORE, MY LITTLE CONCOCTIONS. I COULD SKETCH, SURE, BUT I DIDN’T HAVE A COLLECTION OR MODELS. FASHION, FOR ME, IS COMMUNICATION – A CHANNEL, LIKE PAINT FOR A PAINTER OR CLAY FOR A SCULPTOR. MY MEDIUM JUST HAPPENS TO BE CLOTHES ON BODIES, OFTEN SHOWN ON A RUNWAY.

HL: YOU WANTED TO CREATE NO MATTER WHAT…

JS: YES, THAT NEED TO COMMUNICATE WAS VISCERAL – TO GET SOMETHING OUT OF MY HEAD AND INTO THE WORLD, TO FREE MYSELF OF THE BURDEN AND START A DIALOGUE. IT’S BEEN ALMOST 30 YEARS SINCE ’96; THAT’S WHAT IT’S ALL LED TO: A CONTINUOUS EXPRESSION, A CONNECTION WITH OTHER HUMANS.

HL: THAT INNER FIRE – WAS THERE SOMETHING SPECIFIC YOU WANTED TO COMMUNICATE, OR WAS IT MORE IMMEDIATE AND INTUITIVE?

JS: I’M EXTREMELY INTUITIVE – FIRST EMOTIONAL, THEN CEREBRAL. I’M SENSITIVE TO WHAT I FEEL AND SEE IN THE WORLD, AND I DON’T CONTROL THE INPUT. IT CAN FEEL ALMOST RELIGIOUS: I’M A VESSEL. I RECEIVE AND POUR IT BACK OUT. I’M GRATEFUL TO BE THAT CONDUIT, TO SHARE A BIT OF DIVINITY, TO BRING JOY, HAVE CONVERSATIONS, AND BE THE PHYSICAL EXPRESSION OF IT – EVEN IF I CAN’T EX-PLAIN HOW IT HAPPENS.

HL: CREATIVITY IS FASCINATING AND HIGHLY INDIVIDUAL. HOW DO YOU EXPLAIN THE CREATIVE PROCESS?

JS: PEOPLE ASK ME WHERE IDEAS COME FROM; THERE ISN’T ONE AN-SWER. LIFE IS THE CLOSEST: CONVERSATIONS, WHAT I WATCH, WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE WORLD, A COLOR ON A PASSING CAR, NATURE, MEMORIES – ESPECIALLY HOW MOMENTS MADE ME FEEL. SOMETIMES IT’S A DIRECT SPARK – SAY, A PHOTO OF MARILYN MONROE – BUT OFTEN IT’S JUST THAT DIVINITY OF INSPIRATION. I RIDE IT LIKE A WAVE AND HOPE IT KEEPS INSPIRING OTHERS.

 

 

RIGHT AFTER LEAVING MOSCHINO, I RAN INTO JOHN GALLIANO. I’VE ADMIRED HIM SINCE HIGH SCHOOL. HE TOLD ME: ‘TAKE THIS TIME AND DO EVERYTHING YOU WANT – TRAVEL, SEE THINGS – BECAUSE IT WILL END AND YOU’LL BE BUSY AGAIN.’ I CRIED. IT WAS GENEROUS AND TRUE.
HL: I LOVE THE “VESSEL” METAPHOR. BEFORE YOU CAN BECOME ONE, YOU FIRST NEED TO TRUST YOURSELF – TO BELIEVE YOUR FILTER KNOWS WHICH IDEAS TO FOLLOW. DID YOU HAVE THAT FROM THE START, OR DID YOU GROW INTO IT?

JS: LOOKING BACK, I DON’T RECALL DEEP DOUBT – THOUGH I DID SOMETIMES THINK, “MAYBE PEOPLE AREN’T READY FOR THIS.” I LEARNED QUICKLY THAT THOSE ELECTRIC IDEAS ARE THE ONES TO CHASE. IF IT SCARES ME A LITTLE – OR JOLTS ME – THAT’S THE PATH. OVER TIME, I BECAME SO RECEPTIVE TO THAT FEELING THAT THE FEAR FADED. NOW, WHEN IT COMES, I JUST WELCOME IT IN. ALSO, MY OUTPUT SHIFTED. IT’S BEEN NEARLY THREE YEARS SINCE I LEFT MOSCHINO. I’M STILL CREATIVE, BUT NOT ON THAT RELENTLESS CYCLE OF COLLECTIONS AND SHOWS. I’M CHANNELING IT DIFFERENTLY – AND STILL TRUSTING WHAT COMES TO ME.

HL: DO IDEAS COME TO YOU FROM YOUR MIND AND FANTASY? OR DO YOU LOOK AT THINGS IRL AND WANT TO TRANSFORM THEM?

JS: BOTH, THOUGH I’M VERY BIG ON TRANSFORMATION. I SEE THINGS AND WANT TO MAKE THEM BETTER – FAR BEYOND FASH-ION. HOUSES, THE GLASS I’M DRINKING FROM – ENVIRONMENTS MAT-TER TO ME. IT CAN SOUND DIVA-ISH, SO I DON’T DWELL ON IT, BUT IT’S SIMPLY HOW MY BRAIN WORKS. I TRY TO BE IN PLACES THAT ALREADY “WORK” FOR ME SO I CAN FOCUS ON THE COLLECTION, THE COSTUMES, THE FILM – WHATEVER VESSEL I’M POURING INTO – INSTEAD OF REDESIGNING THE FAUCET.

HL: YOU JUST DESIGNED THE COSTUMES FOR THE FRIEDRICHSTADT- PALAST’S NEW SHOW BLINDED BY DELIGHT . WHAT’S CREATIVELY PULLING YOU NOW?

JS: I’M IN THE FINAL WEEK AND FLYING IN FOR THE PRE-MIERE – PUT-TING THE LAST TOUCHES ON SO IT’S FULLY OUT OF ME. A COUPLE OF COSTUMES DEBUT ONLY ON PREMIERE NIGHT. I’M CLOS-ING THAT CHAPTER AND OPENING A NEW ONE.I HAVEN’T DIVED INTO A NEW BIG PROJECT YET, THOUGH I’M INSPIRED CONSTANTLY. I’VE BEEN FINISHING A HOUSE IN THE PALM SPRINGS DESERT – REFURBISHING, DEC-ORATING, EVEN DESIGNING FURNITURE LIKE MY BED FRAME. NOT WILD FOR WILD’S SAKE – JUST EXACTLY WHAT NEEDED TO BE THERE.I’M ALSO IN EARLY TALKS WITH TWO NON-FASHION COMPANIES ABOUT HOME DE-SIGNS – REAL-LIFE “VESSELS” RATHER THAN CLOTHING – AND I’M DEVELOPING A FILM: WRITING THE SCREENPLAY AND DIRECTING. I’VE PREPARED FOR YEARS; THE WRITING STARTS NOW. IT’S EXCITING – AND A LITTLE TERRIFYING.

 

 

IT FELT LIKE A FIRE INSIDE ME AND A SECRET I COULDN’T KEEP. MAYBE A DASH OF SURVIVAL – BUT NOT IN THE USUAL SENSE. I HAD TO EXPRESS MYSELF, TO SHARE MY VISION.
HL: ARE YOU A MULTITASKER BY NATURE?

JS: YES, I ENJOY IT. EVEN WITHOUT RUNNING MY OWN COLLECTION OR ANOTHER BRAND, I RELEASED A NICE ADIDAS COLLECTION IN JUNE; WE DO THINGS EVERY YEAR AND HAVE FOR 20 YEARS – SOME SMALL, SOME BIGGER. STILL, WITHOUT THAT “MAIN MECHANISM” I WAS USED TO, I FEEL LIKE I’M DOING LESS – BECAUSE I USED TO DO SO MUCH DAILY. THINK OF AN OLYMPIAN AFTER COMPETITION. I’M IN MY MICHAEL PHELPS PHASE [LAUGHS] – NOT TRAINING FLAT OUT, BUT THE TALENT AND DRIVE ARE THERE. THE PAUSE LETS ME ENJOY THINGS. I’VE SPENT A LOT OF TIME WITH MY PARENTS – ABOUT TEN WEEKS THIS PAST YEAR – HELPING, LISTENING TO FAMILY STORIES ONLY THEY CAN TELL. THAT TIME IS A GIFT, AND I DON’T KNOW HOW LONG ANY OF US HAVE. PROFESSIONALLY, I’M APPROACHED ABOUT CREATIVE DIRECTOR ROLES. I’VE INTERVIEWED FOR SOME. THE RIGHT ONE WILL FEEL LIKE A MARRIAGE; IT HAS TO BE RIGHT FOR BOTH SIDES. IT’S MORE BUSINESS THAN EVER, AND CHEMISTRY MATTERS. THE RIGHT ROLE WILL APPEAR.

HL: YOU OPENED A RETROSPECTIVE OF YOUR WORK IN THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART IN KANSAS CITY, YOUR HOMETOWN. HOW DID THAT EXPERIENCE FEEL?

JS: I THOUGHT THE INSTALLATION WOULD TAKE A WEEK; IT TOOK SEVERAL, AND I WAS GRATEFUL TO HAVE THE TIME. I DESIGNED PEDESTALS, SHAPED THE DISPLAY – CREATED A WHOLE WORLD. IT WAS NOURISH-ING AND HEALING TO SEE THE BODY OF MY WORK. THE OPENING WAS SPECIAL: MY PARENTS AND RELA-TIVES, HIGH-SCHOOL TEACHERS, LOCALS, FANS, PEOPLE WHO FLEW IN. EXPERIENCES LIKE THAT WOULDN’T HAVE FIT THE OLD SCHEDULE.

 

 

I LEARNED QUICKLY THAT THOSE ELECTRIC IDEAS ARE THE ONES TO CHASE. IF IT SCARES ME A LITTLE – OR JOLTS ME – THAT’S THE PATH
HL: IS THIS GENERALLY A TIME OF REFLECTION FOR YOU?

JS: RIGHT AFTER LEAVING MO-SCHINO, I RAN INTO JOHN GALLIANO. I’VE ADMIRED HIM SINCE HIGH SCHOOL. HE TOLD ME: “TAKE THIS TIME AND DO EVERYTHING YOU WANT – TRAVEL, SEE THINGS – BE-CAUSE IT WILL END AND YOU’LL BE BUSY AGAIN.” I CRIED. IT WAS GENEROUS AND TRUE. I’VE TRIED TO HONOR THAT – RESISTING THE RUSH BACK. WE GET ONE LIFE; TIME AND MOMENTS AREN’T INFINITE. I TRY TO USE THEM WISELY AND ENJOY THEM PASSIONATELY. NOT EVERY DAY IS PERFECT – EGOS BRUISE – BUT I TRY TO RESET AND REMEMBER WHAT’S GOOD.

HL: IT FITS THE MOMENT. WITH POLITICS SHIFTING AND AI CHANGING THE LANDSCAPE, DO YOU EVEN WANT TO BE A CREATIVE DIRECTOR RIGHT NOW? RETREAT CAN BE HEALTHY.

JS: I DON’T KNOW – AND I’M LEARNING TO ENJOY NOT KNOWING. FOR YEARS, I WAS STRAPPED INTO THE ROLLERCOASTER: RESEARCH, MAKE, FITTINGS, SHOW, PRESS, REPEAT. IF A FRIEND’S WEDDING OR A PREMIERE COLLIDED WITH THE CLIMB, I MISSED IT. NOW I HAVE MORE AUTONOMY – STAY A WEEK LONGER HERE, SHIFT PLANS THERE. MAYBE THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR CHAPTER IS DONE; MAYBE A NEW ONE IS COMING THAT’S DIFFERENTLY, EVEN MORE, FULFILLING. THE BEST THING I CAN DO AS A CREATIVE VESSEL IS STAY OPEN, RECEPTIVE, WILLING, GRATEFUL.

I’M SENSITIVE TO WHAT I FEEL AND SEE IN THE WORLD, AND I DON’T CONTROL THE INPUT. IT CAN FEEL ALMOST RELIGIOUS: I’M A VESSEL. I RECEIVE AND POUR IT BACK OUT.

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