IN CONVERSATION WITH MARIO KEINE

MARKE is an independent fashion label founded by Mario Keine, defined by a strongly conceptual and research-driven approach to design. The brand’s collections are conceived as narratives rather than seasonal responses, emerging from personal, social, and political observations. Instead of following transient trends, MARKE positions fashion as a reflective medium that translates complex themes into material, silhouette, and structure.

The design practice of MARKE extends beyond fashion and is informed by literature, history, architecture, and cultural theory. Historical references, particularly from menswear and periods of social transition, are consistently recontextualized and combined with contemporary forms. Garments are understood as carriers of meaning within a broader cultural and societal framework rather than as isolated products.

In an industry driven by acceleration and constant visibility, MARKE pursues a conscious and reduced mode of operation, emphasizing reflection, sustainability, and local production. In conversation with Mario Keine, the interview explores the conceptual foundations of the brand, the current collection presented in Berlin, and the role of fashion as a tool for social commentary and critical engagement.

The crucial difference is that knowledge is now readily accessible, yet often remains unused or unquestioned.
Looking back on your journey, which experiences have shaped you most as a designer and led the brand to where it stands today?

To briefly retrace my background: I studied fashion design until 2016. That was the initial and decisive factor for me. It was already very clear at an early age that this was what I wanted to do; I had been pursuing this goal since I was 13. After graduating, I first went to Paris and completed an internship at Voyomi, a Korean brand that shows in Paris. After that, I spent five years working at a design agency in Cologne, which was extremely formative because the work was highly interdisciplinary. Although I was responsible for the fashion-related aspects, the agency operated holistically, covering brand communication, retail design, product design, and packaging design, among other fields, for clients such as Rolex, Dior, Givenchy, and others within the luxury segment.

 

This experience was particularly valuable because it enabled me to look beyond the boundaries of fashion design. While I maintained interfaces with fashion, I worked across a wide range of projects, from packaging design and art direction to brand definitions for more commercial clients and beauty shootings. Essentially, all areas of design were covered.

 

During the COVID period, the decision was made to pursue my own brand. It was initially developed alongside my agency work, before the transition to working independently was made. The first presentation of the clothing took place in June/July 2023 during Fashion Week, in a gallery in Neukölln. This was a fully self-initiated project with the first collection. Everything that followed then took place within the framework of Berlin Contemporary.

 

What has been particularly formative during this phase has been a strong process of trial and error. A fashion design degree provides a solid foundation, but it does not fully prepare one for the realities of the industry, especially with regard to business structures and economic mechanisms. This was particularly evident within the German context, at a time when Berlin was only just beginning to re-establish itself and redefine its position. A decisive factor in my development was the connection to Berlin and the Fashion Council. This applies not only to my own brand, but to many younger labels involved in initiatives such as Berlin Contemporary. The increased international visibility of Berlin is largely due to this institutional support. Without the work of the Fashion Council and the Berlin Senate, the current level of support would not exist. This, in turn, makes it possible to move beyond national or press-related establishment and take steps toward international platforms, such as showrooms in Paris.

 

Alongside these milestones, the process remains strongly shaped by trial and error. Decisions made in the first season are often revised later. The work on each collection is highly reflective: an ongoing evaluation of what functions, what still feels authentic after the season, and which elements may have been driven more by marketing or effect. The objective is a continuous sharpening of the brand’s own line and identity.

MARKE
The objective is a continuous sharpening of the brand’s own line and identity.
How much of you personally is embedded in the brand? What are your motivations, and at what point does a piece clearly become “your brand”?

The work is fundamentally conceptual. The first two collections, for instance, were entirely dedicated to the theme of companions along one’s path. Having worked for five years at a design agency, my creative output had always been guided by the artistic direction of others. Upon returning to independent work, one of the central initial questions was therefore how my own signature could be defined.

 

This led to an examination of which influences had shaped my visual language from an early age and how these influences still manifest, often subconsciously, in my work. A recurring element is a strong engagement with historical references. From childhood onward, there has been a fascination with historical architecture, castles, costumes, and period films. As a result, my mood boards are more likely to reference traditional garments, folklore, or historical clothing from various eras than contemporary minimalism or 1990s references. These elements consistently resonate throughout my work.

MARKE

The subsequent collection shifted focus from inner influences to the people who had shaped my path. Once this process enabled a clearer definition of my own signature, the collections began to be strongly dedicated to specific themes that were explored in depth, often through literature or contemporary global issues. The intention is to relate these themes to personal experience and to give a voice to perspectives that were historically silenced over long periods.

 

The most recent summer collection, titled The Summer I Never Had, was based on three literary works spanning from the Victorian era to the modern period. The aim was to give a voice to individuals who were oppressed in the past and unable to express themselves publicly. The references included Maurice by E. M. Forster; Swimming in the Dark by Tomasz Jedrowski; and Young Mungo, a queer coming-of-age story set in 1990s Ireland. These periods share a common context of repression of queer love and marginalized identities.

 

The collection functioned as a reflection on what could have been. In collaboration with a fellow artist, the set design featured symbolic meeting points—hidden spaces outside societal norms where love could be experienced. The underlying question concerned what might have been possible if society had allowed it.

 

In the current collection, the guiding question at the beginning of the season once again concerns the issue that is personally most pressing, with a strong focus on social media and education today.

This experience was particularly valuable because it enabled me to look beyond the boundaries of fashion design.
What was the starting point for this collection, and which observations or thoughts accompanied the process?

The current collection is based on very few visual references. The driving force was an intuitive feeling experienced while engaging with social media. Reading comment sections often evokes a sense of helplessness and shock in response to current societal tendencies, the spread of hate, and the handling of misinformation and fake news.

 

This led to reflections on political developments, as well as on the role of artificial intelligence and misinformation. It is striking how often opinions are expressed without any attempt at verification or fact-checking. Information is accepted arbitrarily.

 

A pop-cultural example involved AI-generated images of Miley Cyrus circulated under the title “what happened to her before and after.” Despite being clearly artificial, many reactions treated the images as real. A single click would have sufficed to verify their falsity, yet the algorithm was further reinforced through engagement.

 

This phenomenon extends beyond pop culture to politics and society at large. It evokes parallels to the period prior to the Enlightenment in the 16th and 17th centuries, when questions of reason, rationality, human rights, freedom of belief, and separation of powers were central. Today, similar dynamics can be observed: increasing proximity between religion and politics, rising fundamentalism, and emotional rather than rational argumentation.

 

The crucial difference is that knowledge is now readily accessible, yet often remains unused or unquestioned. This is perceived as a dangerous tendency. The collection responds to this atmosphere and situates it within the context of the aestheticization of capitalism through social media. Historically, parallels are drawn to the Rococo period and the French Revolution, a peak of elitism followed by bourgeois uprising. The present moment feels comparable to a renewed brewing of class struggle, and these reflections are integrated into the collection.

The crucial difference is that knowledge is now readily accessible, yet often remains unused or unquestioned.
How are diffuse moods or emotions translated into concrete elements such as materials, colors, or silhouettes?

At this early stage, the concepts may still appear somewhat diffuse, as this is the first interview on the collection. Greater structure typically emerges over time. The approach involves identifying the essence of the content. Visual references to the Enlightenment are limited, so the focus lies on structuring emotions. The idea of clarity through critical questioning is translated into clear structures. The silhouettes are deliberately reduced and minimal as a counterpoint to rapid change. The color palette is neutral, consisting of gray, black, white, eggshell, with two accent colors.

 

This reinforces the underlying mood: on the one hand, a sense of bleakness, and on the other, the aestheticization of commerce. Historical elements from Victorian menswear play a role as the origin of uniformity, suits, and corporate wear. These structures are disrupted through historical details, Rococo references, fabric-covered buttons, and overlays. The result is a hybrid of historical reference and contemporary form, which has become a recurring trademark of the brand.

What motivates you personally to remain creative despite the fast-paced challenges of the fashion industry?

The primary motivation lies in formulating social commentary and raising awareness. Sustainability plays a central role in this context. All collections to date have been produced exclusively from overstock and deadstock materials. Production takes place predominantly in Germany, partly in Poland, but always locally and transparently. Quality and craftsmanship are intended to ensure longevity.

Creative energy is drawn from art, culture, galleries, and exchange with open and curious individuals. In particular, the collaborative spirit within the Berlin fashion scene is highly motivating and fosters optimism that meaningful change can be initiated on a small scale.

How is the fashion show used to convey the narrative and conceptual layer of the collection?

The narrative is primarily communicated through sound and set design. This season focuses on education and knowledge. The set incorporates books, dried roses, and tower-like installations that reference both enlightenment and the loss of knowledge. This is complemented by a spatial fragrance developed in collaboration with the Cologne-based perfume house Farina. The historical association with Voltaire and the Enlightenment further reinforces the conceptual dimension.

Thank you very much for the inquiry and for your time. Most likely, see you at Fashion Week.

Thank you for your time.
See you ^^

MARKE