FOTOGRAFISKA X LUCAS MEYER-LECLERE

FOTOGRAFISKA X LUCAS MEYER-LECLERE

Photography Sascha Rebrikov
Interview Louise Garier

Offered to curate a collection of exclusive pieces, meticulously hand-painted and retailored by my team and me. Such creative freedom and rigorous craftsmanship offered by Fotografiska are unparalleled in the global museum landscape. I can’t think of something more extravagant but “Couture Merch” for a museum, and Berlin, with its open mind and buoyant art scene, is the perfect place to start this. The opening of this capsule will take place at Fotografiska Berlin on the 2nd of July.

Can you tell us about your journey into fashion design? What inspired you to pursue this career?

I studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins in London and was hired whilst I was a still a student by Karl Lagerfeld to design fabrics for Chanel in Paris. Working with Karl was the best academy I could have ever hoped for. His generosity, his kindness and his insane work strength still inspire me today. After a couple of years I moved to Milan to work as a free lance designer and collaborated with the likes of Dior, Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons, Vuitton etc. I also designed accessories for Jimmy Choo which was great fun for Sandra Choi is an absolute delight. Berlin attracted me for its art scene and I had a couple of exhibitions here one of which at Donna Huanca’s atelier. I included more and more clothes and started retailoring clothes I had at home that Karl gave me. A lot of Chanel and Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane. From this sacrilegious and freeing act my label was born.

How would you describe your design aesthetic and philosophy? What are the key elements that define your work?

There is nothing as powerful and irreplaceable as clothing. The same could be said of literature, music and painting, but clothing have this most intimate and erotic aspect that they are what separate our skin from the world. People can turn into monarchs in the loving embrace of my clothes and I love to see the transformation operating on them. I am also always inspired to see how they either appropriate a full look or mix it with what they have. I love that it allows me to be very lonely in the creative process and very social when working with the atelier, the suppliers and other creatives to bring a vision to life. Madame Grès, the Couturière extraordinaire who pleated jersey like no one else, when discussing with Thierry Ardisson for Interview magazine in 1987 said : “there is a time for work and a time for love, and that leaves no other time”. Not a single day passes where I wish my time was used otherwise but for fashion, and for loving.

How would you describe your design aesthetic and philosophy? What are the key elements that define your work?

I believe in Peace, Love and Unity. Peace is what brings all very different elements of crafts and people from various background, sexuality and ethnicity together around an idea of beauty. Love is what drives me always for I strive to create pieces I would love to wear. I love the freedom of expression of one’s sexuality and always strive to dress it. I have the feeling that the more I do it, the more I follow the body, the more erotic it becomes, because when a body is covered, all the exposed skin is highlighted. Unity is for the coherence and the sharpness of style and cut that I work to refine each day. Tailoring plays a big part in it for I am a Savile Row client and aficionado. Then come all the couture techniques and twist I learnt whilst working on some samples for Karl as I borrowed the sewing machines of the Atelier Cécile at Chanel at the same floor where my desk was. It was easy for they always work by hand. You’re asking my philosophy? Think of Number 5, but twist it around and make it a 69 for 2025.

Versatility of the pieces that go beyond gender. A streamlined tailored cut that favorises a certain silhouette and posture and a great attention and love for craft, visible or not.

How did your collaboration with Fotografiska begin, and what drew you to work with them?

Yoram Roth, the owner, has followed my work for a couple of season and he is a man of great style. He introduced me to Adina Bier who is Director of Retail and Customer Experience. Adina has a very sharp eye and distinct taste and gave me carte blanche to create something for them from their merchandise which, thanks to her, was printed on Organic cotton and had great finishing. I love Fotografiska for what it stands for, I admire the courage it takes to open museums all over the world and I am so grateful it exists instead of another fucking mall or electric bike shop. It’s a relief to have entrepreneurs who can shape the city in a positive way and invite many people to create and collaborate with them. The whole team I feel echoes this energy and certain joie-de-vivre that Berlin drastically needs at the moment.

What were some of the key ideas behind this collection and collaboration with Fotografiska?

The idea was to create unique pieces that echoed the vitality of the place, its history and its present. Its history through the many artists that expressed themselves through graffitis was echoed in the form of action painting onto the shirt that I hand painted myself. Together with my team we also work extensively on lace from the 1900, a period which Tacheless ( where Fotografiska is right now) was a lavish store for elegant customer. The present is found in the playful patchworking of the printed shirt as well as the more couture cotton and silk twill embroideries or draping on some others.

What are your future aspirations in the fashion industry, and do you have any upcoming collaborations with Fotografiaka or other partners that you’re excited about?

With Fotografiska we are taking the time to let the collection blossom in the heart of Berliners and on-liners. It is essential to see what works and we can further expand this business idea. I love their graphics and energy and I am so grateful already to have had the chance to collaborate with all them that I would be thrilled to work on something new, something different perhaps, I wouldn’t want them nor me nor the customer to get bored! As for me I am working on the launch of a new brand that will be made entirely in Italy and far more luxurious than I ever did before and am preparing a special project with Halleluja Berlin that will be set in Mitte. More I will tell you when it’s ready!