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IN CONVERSATION WITH DAVID KOMA
Blumarine, long synonymous with butterflies, chiffon and a distinctly Y2K aesthetic, has entered a new chapter. With David Koma appointed as the Italian house’s new Creative Director, the brand turns toward a darker, more sculptural sensuality. His Fall/Winter 2025 debut merges the allure of Sicilian romance with a sharper, more refined silhouette – less a nostalgic revival than a bold reimagining.
In conversation with Numéro Berlin, Koma reflects on his first year since taking over creative direction at Blumarine – navigating its rich legacy, challenging traditional ideas of femininity and forging a new visual language that bridges the house’s heritage with a contemporary edge.
“Blumarine embodies a unique blend of sensuality, timeless glamour and elegance that I always admired.“
Numéro Berlin: Could you tell us a bit about your background and what led you to Blumarine?
David Koma: I grew up between Georgia and Russia, in a very sporty family. My father, being a soccer player, initially imagined a career in sports for me. My journey into fashion was quite unexpected then, yet it felt completely natural. My love for art and cinema naturally led me to it – it felt like the perfect medium to express my creativity. I was fortunate to discover my love for drawing at an early age, and my parents were incredibly supportive in nurturing that passion. By the time I was eight, I had already started sketching clothing, shoes, and hats. At 13, I entered my first fashion design competition – I must have been at least five years younger than any other participant. By then, I was already certain of my path.
You’ve been the Creative Director at Blumarine for nearly a year now – how do you look back on this year?
I’m incredibly happy about this course. It’s been a journey of blending my personal design perspective with the brand’s iconic codes, and I am very pleased with the results achieved and the feedbacks I received so far.
I know Blumarine since my childhood in Russia, and have such good memories linked to the brand, towards which people have always had a positive attitude. I really appreciate the handcraft skills of the maison plus I think it has the right dimension for me to fit in.
Blumarine’s past is steeped in chiffon, butterflies and romantic femininity. How do you combine that with the style of David Koma?
The brand’s signature feminine aesthetic deeply resonates with me already, Blumarine embodies a unique blend of sensuality, timeless glamour and elegance that I always admired, and I am proud to infuse Blumarine’s rich creative heritage with my own modern vision, offering easy pieces in an elevated way.
Femininity is no longer a fixed idea, but a question mark. How does your work engage with that question?
I’m always inspired by women and the female form – even though I acknowledge that there is no fixed idea of femininity.
To me, woman is both tough and sensual, free yet controlled, youthful yet mature – a complex character. I envision her as a 21st-century femme fatale – strong, confident, and exuding a sophisticated kind of sex appeal, while remaining deeply romantic.
The Blumarine A/W25 collection is characterized by “dark romance”. A recurring motif in the collection was the thistle, how did this come about?
A/W25 collection was inspired by the alluring femininities of Italian cinema, by the dark exoticism of Sicily and the intriguing exuberance of the women who inhabit it on screen. Thistle is a plant that is particularly widespread in Sicily, some varieties are found exclusively in that region in fact. Furthermore, for me it represents both the romanticism and rigour, the storm and grace that characterize the multifaceted characters and actresses of Italian film.
In stepping into Blumarine’s legacy, has any part of the brand’s history ever posed a creative challenge that led you to a new direction?
Approaching a rich and defined brand’s history and legacy such as Blumarine’s ones is always a creative challenge. On the other hand, I found here the perfect breeding ground for my idea of a specific culture of style that evolves through generational exchange. The seeds were sown by Anna Molinari and her daughter Rossella Tarabini: opposite and complementary personalities, a mother and her daughter, one romantic, the other rebellious, capable of harmonizing an idea of woman who is spontaneous in all her complexity.
How do you create something new without becoming a curator of the past?
It’s all about instinct now. With years of experience, I’ve developed a strong understanding of the process, finding the balance in blending the brand’s heritage with my modern vision.
What inspires you outside of the fashion world?
Everything can be a source of inspiration for me – nature, art, architecture, society.
I was recently amazed by the beauty of Milan: I love walking in Brera or in the park, around the castle and Piccolo theater, where every corner can turn into a specific vision.
With your vision now firmly embedded in Blumarine, what kind of legacy do you hope to leave for the brand?
I would like my legacy for the brand to be deeply connected with freedom and spontaneity, exuding confidence, lightheartedness and irreverence, fostering that culture of style I mentioned before – the one that evolves through generational exchange, that the previous custodians of the house, a mother and a daughter, have always nurtured.
If the David Koma woman had to share a room with the Blumarine girl, what would happen?
The David Koma woman is surely oriented towards a sharper, more rigid style, whereas Blumarine one is more playful, fun, light-hearted: even though they might seem like complete opposites, I think they would get along very well!
What was the exact moment you realized: This is Blumarine, but it’s also me?
I would say at the first fitting of Pre-Fall25: since from the beginning, I have been able to inject my very personal touch into the collection, identifying the harmonic blend of my vision and the brand’s codes.
How do you envision Blumarine’s future and what new directions are you excited to explore?
I am working on adding more quality, artisanal touch, tailoring and sharpness, of course on top of the femininity and softeness that have always characterized the style of the maison.
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