“We always try to combine practicality and beauty.”
During Berlin Art Week, Andreas Murkudis presents in his concept store FLY WITH IM MEN, by IM MEN, the menswear label from the Miyake Design Studio. The installation FLY WITH IM MEN turns part of the space into an encounter between fashion, technology, and tradition. Founded in 2021, IM MEN builds on Issey Miyake’s philosophy of “a piece of cloth” and experiments with new approaches to designing and constructing garments directly from the fabric. After its debut at Paris Fashion Week, IM MEN now comes to Berlin. For the opening, Numéro Berlin spoke with Andreas Murkudis and a member of the IM MEN design team about the ideas behind the collection, the role of material research, and how innovation and sustainability shape the label’s vision.
IM MEN: We have the series called compacted shirts. It started when the brand launched in 2021. As the name suggests, the shirts can be folded. When the piece is completely flat, we can fold it along the line. We think it’s very practical, because you can easily carry it with you at all times. At the same time, when you wear it, the folding line remains visible and that becomes part of the beauty of the design. For us, it’s always about combining practicality and beauty. That’s the approach we take with all products.
IM MEN: The important thing is to use techniques from the past and make them new. In Japan, traditional methods can create patterns using very thin yarn with a weaving seam, which results in a very interesting texture. For this collection, we wanted to create more graphic and energetic designs. Originally, it was very difficult to produce such large patterns. By using computer graphics, we were able to achieve a much bigger scale of graphics and patterns.
Andreas Murkudis: Normally during Art Week we do three, four, sometimes five exhibitions. And we always hoped to do something bigger with Miyake. The last time we did something together was about eight years ago. We’ve always wanted to do more, because the whole team are real fans of Miyake. It feels very special.
Andreas Murkudis: Not right now, but for sure I’ll take a shirt.
IM MEN: It’s very important to look at the “one piece” idea from different perspectives. This time, we wanted to highlight that, so we worked with the very simple theme of one piece. In our process, the team doesn’t just design but also engineers. We research fabric and yarn, then create the fabric, and only afterwards the design. We look at the fabric we’ve made and ask ourselves: How are we going to use this piece of cloth? We always try to focus on sustainability as much as possible. Our goal is that the wearer can use the clothes in many different ways.
The fabric is equipped with several zippers and buttons. This allows the wearer to adjust the garment according to their needs. For example, if you turn a coat and button it differently, it becomes practically a new piece of clothing. It all stems from the philosophy of “a piece of cloth.” A garment is transformed by the wearer, who engages with it in a completely new and personal way.
Andreas Murkudis: For me, the most important thing is the fabric itself and also how they treat the folding. Even when they work with the same techniques, I always see something completely new.
Andreas Murkudis: After Miyake, we’ll open something a bit like a supermarket. We’ll have 30 to 40 tables, with around 800 to 1000 small objects, including many Japanese products. In 2027 we’ll celebrate our 25th anniversary, and for that occasion we want to collaborate with many of the brands we admire.
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