Celebrating the launch of “Vanille Caviar”: In Conversation with bdk

Last month, for the launch of their new scent “Vanille Caviar”, Paris-based perfume house bdk and friends of the brand came together for a celebratory dinner in the Feuerle Collection in Berlin. Numéro Berlin sat down with Founder David Benedek to talk about the concept behind Vanilla Caviar and which new chapters might await bdk; in Berlin and beyond.

Numéro Berlin: Time for a conclusion: How do you feel about the initial reaction to the launch of Vanille Caviar?

David Benedek: It’s true that when it comes to fragrances, some are designed to appeal to a broad audience while others are more niche and therefore more disruptive. That’s exactly what’s happening with Vanille Caviar. Overall, the fragrance has been very well received, but we’ve also seen some more polarized reactions. Some clients absolutely love it and have become true fans, while others are more surprised by its interpretation of the vanilla bean, which is quite salty, dark, leathery, and not sweet at all. It’s a scent that can divide opinions, as many consumers tend to expect vanilla to be sweeter and more gourmand.

That said, we’re very happy with the result ! It brings a unique signature and complements the other creations in the Collection Matières beautifully.

Vanille Caviar is officially described as “an exploration of the mysterious power of black.” To what extent is a fragrance at BDK always tied to a visual concept or imagery?

At BDK Parfums, fragrance is always closely tied to a visual concept or imagery. Vanille Caviar, for example, is an exploration of the mysterious power of black, not as a shadow, but as a source of light, a concept Soulages calls outrenoir (Outrenoir [‘beyond black’] is not just black, but a medium through which light is reflected, transformed, and perceived” (Soulages, 1997)).

“Like a monochrome painting by Pierre Soulages, the perfume transforms a single raw material into radiance, revealing its depth, texture, and nuances”

Each creation at BDK Parfums stems from a dialogue between diverse artistic inspirations—painting, design, music—and a sensitivity inherited from arts. Every raw material has a color, every scent a texture, giving fragrance a pictorial, almost tactile dimension. For us, perfume is a world of encounters where art, creativity, and culture intertwine, constantly opening new perspectives.

How did you translate the character of Vanille Caviar into an aesthetic experience during the dinner?

To translate the character of Vanille Caviar into an aesthetic experience during the dinner, we wanted to create a space that reflected the depth, contrast, and unexpected elements of the fragrance. The venue itself, the Feuerle Collection, offered a perfect canvas with its raw, architectural spaces and the dialogue between ancient art and contemporary works.

We enhanced the artistic dimension by collaborating with Idan Gilony, an artist known for his innovative approach to light and material, whose work allowed us to bring a modern, immersive perspective to the experience. The dinner was designed not only as a tasting but as a multisensory journey. We included light installations and the Sound Room, creating an experience in darkness where light emerged through sound, complemented by rays of light from the exhibition that followed the experience.

On the table itself, we recreated elements of the fragrance in a very contemporary and urban way: vanilla pods and orchids were placed thoughtfully across the dining table, translating the raw and sophisticated notes of Vanille Caviar. Every detail — from the space to the lighting, the sound, and the materials — was intended to echo the perfume’s powerful, dark, and modern character, turning the dinner into a true artistic extension of the fragrance.

Why was it important for you to host a BDK dinner here in Berlin? And how did you decide on the Feuerle Collection as the location?

For me, it was important to host the dinner in Berlin because we have many German clients, a market that truly loves niche perfumery. I wanted this launch to be celebrated in a symbolic and meaningful place that really reflects our DNA. The Feuerle Collection is a space full of history, raw, architectural, and yet deeply artistic. In this museum, Asian art is presented within a brutalist environment (inside the bunker, they bring together ancient Chinese furniture and scholar’s objects, Southeast Asian Khmer sculpture, and bold contemporary artworks, all in dialogue with one another and the architecture.), and that’s very much what BDK Parfums is about: how, from an urban and raw setting, arts can emerge and inspire the creation of perfumes.

There was a strong artistic resonance between this place and our identity, and that’s what drew me to it. It felt like the perfect setting to express who we are and the story behind Vanille Caviar.

Apart from the Collection Matières, to which Vanille Caviar belongs, you also offer scents within the Collection Parisienne, inspired by Paris. If you were to create a fragrance based on Berlin, how would you translate your first impressions of the city into scent?

I think that’s quite a broad question. For me, the impression I had of Berlin in October would be very different from what I might feel in spring or summer. I would need to come back and spend more time to truly capture the essence of the city.

In general, when I’ve been inspired by places to create fragrances at BDK Parfums, it’s often locations I’ve visited multiple times and made my own. Berlin was only my second visit, and both times were very short stays. I would like to spend more time exploring the city.

What the city evokes for me is a certain brutality, vastness, and grandeur in space. If I were to imagine a fragrance inspired by Berlin, it would certainly be very powerful, with a wide sillage, using deep, noble, and mysterious ingredients with a touch of raw modernity. When I think of mysterious notes, it’s often woody, smoky, and leathery, with a slightly dark character that reflects Berlin’s lifestyle and cultural atmosphere.

2025 has been an exciting year for BDK. What have been your biggest takeaways so far? And are there any upcoming projects you’re particularly excited about?

For me, 2025 has been a year of rediscovery as a creator, allowing me to clarify and embrace the vision I want to develop over the next ten years. At BDK Parfums, I’ve finally found the right balance between the arts (sculpture, painting, literature, photography) and perfume as a real Parisian Creative Studio .

This year saw several very iconic launches, such as IMPADIA, with the opera dancer on the rooftops of Paris, his bouquet hiding his face. With Vanille Caviar, we created a launch in raw, striking spaces with art exhibitions, drawing inspiration from the black monochrome works of Soulages.

For me, 2025 has been a personal revelation in the aesthetic I want to bring to the House. It’s the message of this year, which will continue into a new collection launching in 2026 to celebrate BDK Parfums’ 10th anniversary. This collection will highlight a strong connection between olfactory raw materials and my personal history and passion for the world of fashion.

“VISION MEANS TRUSTING THE UNKNOWN”— A CONVERSATION WITH HANNAH HERZSPRUNGBY ANN-KATHRIN RIEDL

"CREATIVITY OFTEN…

WEEKEND MUSIC PT. 72: IN CONVERSATION WITH BARAN KOK

Inspired by artists like Kurdo and Haftbefehl, German rapper Baran Kok set out to make a…

TO WATCH: “ALL THAT’S LEFT OF YOU” BY CHERIEN DABIS

"I am the sea. In my depths, treasures lie hidden."

STRAIGHT TO THE HEART – GUERLAIN CELEBRATES A CENTURY OF LOVE

Guerlain celebrates 100 years of Shalimar with a special exhibition in Paris that explores…

By Ann-Kathrin Riedl

“IMAGINE” at Kunstraum Heilig Geist: Make it simple but significant

Stravoula Coulianidis in conversation with artist Yves Scherer

ON OUR RADAR

Numéro Berlin’s weekly collection of the most exciting news about fashion, music, and…